Prepare and clean the fish and put into a stewpan with a chopped onion, a bunch of parsley, a pinch of salt, and enough white wine to cover. Simmer for fifteen minutes, take up the fish, and strain the liquid. Add one cupful of oyster liquor and boil the liquid until reduced half. Take from the fire, add one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour, cooked together, stir until smooth, return to the fire, and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Take from the fire and add slowly the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Bring to the boil, pour over the fish, and serve.

PERCH À LA SICILY

Cook three or four large perch for twenty minutes with a bunch of parsley in salted and acidulated water. Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of malt vinegar, one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, a teaspoonful of minced parsley, a small chopped onion, a bay-leaf, and four pepper-corns. Boil for ten minutes, strain, and cool. Cook together four tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour. When brown, add a pint of beef stock and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Take from the fire, add the strained vinegar, the beaten yolks of six eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish. Bring to the boil, pour over the fish, and serve.

PERCH À LA STANLEY

Clean four large perch, put into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter, a small bunch of parsley, a pint of Rhine wine, a pint of white stock, and salt and pepper to season. Simmer slowly until done, drain, and keep warm. Thicken the sauce with two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour cooked together, take from the fire, add the yolks of four eggs beaten with the juice of a lemon and three tablespoonfuls of butter. Bring to the boil, add a dozen parboiled oysters, pour over the fish, and serve.

BAKED PERCH

Prepare and clean the fish, stuff with seasoned crumbs, and sew up. Bake with a little white wine and melted butter.

PERCH SALAD

Clean and boil the fish, drain, and cool. Serve very cold on lettuce with Mayonnaise.

TEN WAYS TO COOK PICKEREL