Ans. The cross arms are bored with holes for the insertion of the insulator pins, which are made of locust wood and threaded at the upper end to receive the glass insulator.
The cross arm is made of such a length as to accommodate the number of pins to be inserted. An arm for two pins is made three feet long, according to the standard usually followed, with holes for the pins at center points three inches from either end and a space of 28 inches between them in the center.
Ques. How must electric light and power wires be placed when wired on telephone or telegraph poles?
Ans. They must not be put on the same cross arm with the telegraph, telephone, or similar wires, and when placed on the same pole with such wires the distance between the two inside pins of each cross arm must not be less than twenty-six inches.
Fig. 937.—Portable platform with rigging as used by linemen in wiring and making repairs.
Poles for Light and Power Wires.—In selecting the style of pole necessary for a certain class of work, the conditions and circumstances should be considered. Poles may be divided into three classes, the size of wire to be carried being one of the important considerations.
First Class.—Main line of poles should range in length of from 30 to 35 feet with 6 inch tops. The height of trees, of course will have to be considered in many cases.
Second Class.—Town lighting by arc lights. All poles should have at least 6 inch tops. The corner poles should have 6½ inch tops, and wherever the cross arms are placed on a pole at different angles, the pole should have at least a 6½ inch top. A 30 foot pole is sufficiently long for the main line, but it would be advisable to place 35 foot poles on corners.
Third Class.—Where heavy wire, such as No. 00, is used for feeder wire, the poles should have at least 7 inch tops. Where mains are run on the same pole line the strain is somewhat lessened, and poles of smaller size will answer.
Cull Poles.—All poles that are smaller at the top than the sizes agreed upon, are troubled with dry rot, large knots and bumps, have more than one bend, or have a sweep of over twelve inches, should certainly be classed as cull poles. Specifications for electric light and power work should be, and in many cases are, much more severe than those required by telegraph lines. A cull pole, one of good material, is the best thing for a guy stub, and is frequently used for this purpose. A cedar pole is always preferable to any other, owing to the fact that it is very light in comparison to other timber, and is strong, durable, and very long lived.
Pole Setting.—In erecting poles, it seems to be the universal opinion of the best posted construction men that a pole should be set at least five feet in the ground, and six inches additional for every five feet additional length above thirty-five feet; also additional depths on corners. Wherever there is much moisture in the ground, it is of much value to paint or smear the butt ends of the pole with pitch or tar, allowing this to extend about two feet above the level of the ground. This protects the pole from rot at the base. The weakest part of the pole is just where it enters the ground. Never set poles further than 125 feet apart; 110 feet is good practice.
Painting.—When poles are to be painted, a dark olive green color should be chosen, in order that they may be as inconspicuous as possible. One coat of paint should be applied before pole is set, and one after pole is set. Tops should be pointed to shed water.
Spacing the Poles.—In general, the spacing of poles, like their dimensions, is regulated by the weight of the lines they are designed to carry—the heavier the lines the greater the number of poles. The spacing of poles also depends on their liability to injury from storms and wind in any given locality, and the nature of the service. Poles for a telephone line may be spaced twenty to fifty to the mile—that is, from about 260 to 100 feet apart.