First get the pipe thoroughly dried, and with some quick drying gold size paint the part to be repaired; then get some white lead and stiffen it with some powdered red lead, so as to make it a hardish putty, place a thin layer of this, say 3⁄8th inch to 1⁄2 inch in thickness, over the bursted part of the pipe, and with some good strong calico, painted with the gold size, neatly wrap the red lead to the pipe, using 3 or 4 thicknesses of the painted calico; then with some twine begin at one end, laying the twine in several layers in rotation until it has, like the calico, several thicknesses.
If properly done this will be strong enough to withstand any ordinary pressure on the pipes and if more is required the putty can be made from dry red lead and gold size. In making all white and red lead joints, first, see that the parts are thoroughly dry; second, see that the parts are not dirty with rust, &c.; next, well paint the parts with good, stiff paint before putting the putty on to form the joint.
BENDING LEAD PIPE.
If any ordinary piece of light lead pipe 11⁄2 inches in diameter is taken and pulled or bent sharply around it will crimple or crinkle at the throat; the larger and thinner the pipe the more it will become distorted.
There are many methods of making these bends in lead pipe, some with dummies, others with bolts, balls, etc., others cut the bends at the back, at the throat, or the two sides of the bend.
For small pipes, such as 1⁄2 to 1 inch and extra heavy, they may be pulled round without trouble or danger, but for a little larger size SAND BENDING is largely practiced as follows:
Take the length of pipe, say 5 feet, fill and well ram it with sand 2 feet up, then have ready a metal pot of very hot sand to fill the pipe 1 foot up, next fill the pipe up with more cold sand, ramming it as firmly as possible, stop the end and pull round the pipe, at the same time hammering quickly working the lead from the throat towards the back, which can be done if properly worked. N. B.—Care must be used not to reduce or enlarge the size of the bore at the bend.
Bending with Water.—It is a well-known fact that for such work, water is incompressible, but may be turned or twisted about for any shape provided it is enclosed in a solid case. To make the bend—the end of the pipe is stopped and a stop cock soldered into the other end; take the pipe at the end and pull it around, being careful that the water does not cool and shrink, and hammering quickly to take out the crinkle.
Bending with Balls.—This method is practiced with small pipe and also to take “dints” out in case of sand and water bending when a ball is sent through. Method: suppose the pipe to be two inches, then a ball is required 1⁄16 in. less than the pipe, so that it will run through the pipe freely. Now pull the pipe round until it just begins to flatten, put the ball into the pipe and with some short pieces of wood, say 2 in. long by 11⁄2 in. in diam., force the ball through the dented part of the pipe. The ball will run through all the easier if “touched” over with a candle end. Care must be used in forcing the ball back and forth not to drive it through the bend.