CONTENTS.
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| [CHAPTER I.] | |
| [PASSAGE OF THE RIVER PLATA.] | |
| The Bark M.—First Glimpses of Life in the Forecastle.—An old Salt, and forecastle Etiquette.—A self-constituted Guardian.—Another old Salt, and how he spliced the Main-brace.—Farewell to Boston.—The Passage.—The tropical Seas.—The Rocks of St. Paul’s, and their Natural History.—First Visit of the Pampero.—The “Doctor’s” poetical Effusions. | [11] |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
| [IN THE RIVER PLATA.] | |
| We enter the River Plata.—Land.—Montevideo.—Another Pampero.—Effects of the Hurricane.—Its Season.—We arrive at the outer Roads at Buenos Ayres. | [30] |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
| [BUENOS AYRES—THE PROVINCE AND CITY.] | |
| Letters from Home.—A Visit to the City.—Its Population.—Thistle Forests.—Agricultural Resources.—Public Edifices of Buenos Ayres.—Improvements.—Soil and Water.—Slavery and its History.—Don D. F. Sarmiento.—Paper Currency.—General Rosas and his cruel Tyranny. | [35] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
| [VISIT TO THE TIGRE AND BANDA ORIENTAL.] | |
| A new Acquaintance.—Preparations for a Journey.—The Departure.—The Cochero and his Vehicle.—Residence of the late President.—Agriculture.—Fuel.—San Fernando.—Mr. Hopkins and United States and Paraguay Navigation Company.—Yerba.—We leave the Tigre.—Arrival at the Banda Oriental.—Wild Dogs.—Estancia.—Departure for the Las Vacas River.—A Revelation.—An Ignis Fatuus.—Estancia House, and Cattle Farm.—The Proprietor at Home.—Inhospitable Reception.—The Peons.—Insulting Treatment.—An Irishman and his Opinions.—We reach the River.—Gold Prospects.—We return to the Tigre.—My Companion’s Fate. | [49] |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
| [ASCENDING THE PLATA AND PARANÁ.] | |
| Rosario.—Departure from the Tigre.—A Dialogue.—I visit the M.—The Irish Barrister’s Son.—I return to the City.—Leave Buenos Ayres.—Banks of the River.—El Rosario.—Schools, &c.—Enterprise of the People.—Diligences.—The Press.—Vigilantes.—Paraná.—Its Position.—Bank.—Railroad and its Prospects. | [68] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
| [A VISIT TO THE PAMPA COUNTRY.] | |
| A new Acquaintance.—An Invitation.—We set out upon the Plains.—Incidents of the Journey.—A Pampa Lord.—We visit his Mansion.—The House and its Inmates.—Cattle.—Niata Breed.—Ostriches. Riding a wild Colt.—Trial of Horses.—The Boliadores.—Estancia Life.—The Gauchos.—Duties on the Cattle Farm.—Feast Days and Aguardiente.—Customs of the Gauchos.—Training Colts.—The Herdsman’s Dress. | [76] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
| [LIFE ON THE PAMPAS.] | |
| Don José and my new Guardian.—Preparations for Departure.—Pampa Carts.—Method of driving Oxen.—Fresh Meat.—A Santa.—Farewell to Rosario.—The Caravan.—A Halt.—Novel Mode of Cooking.—First Lesson in Gaucho Etiquette.—A Name.—Habits of the Bizcacha.—Burrowing Owls.—First Night in the Pampas. | [101] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
| [LIFE ON THE PAMPAS—CONTINUED.] | |
| A new Dress.—Riding a Ram.—Deer.—Parrots.—Mirages.—A Troop of Carts.—A Pantana.—Grass on fire.—Another Caravan.—Armadillos.—Guardia de la Esquina.—A sad Story.—Irreverence of the Peons.—Cabeza del Tigre.—Indian Attack.—Saladillo.—I visit a Rancho.—Punta del Sauce.—Its Inhabitants.—A geographical Dispute.—La Reduccion.—Paso Durazno.—Cerro Moro in the distance.—Indian female Spies. | [117] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
| [FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO.] | |
| Rio Quarto.—Indian Incursions.—A novel Method of charging a Cannon.—Scarcity of Bread.—A Bath.—The Peons’ Objection to Bathing.—Ox brain Soup.—A mule Troop.—The Madrina.—Armadillos.—Their Habits.—A Caravan from Mendoza.—Bread and Ovens.—Preparations for a hungry Time.—A Prostration. | [136] |
| [CHAPTER X.] | |
| [FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO—CONTINUED.] | |
| Prospects and Experiences.—The Peons’ dislike for the “Gringo.”—Fear of Dr. Carmel.—Little Juan.—Suspicious Movements.—Sympathy of the China Women.—Intrigue.—The Breakfast.—Don Manuel lacks Etiquette.—Sickness.—A Dream. | [152] |
| [CHAPTER XI.] | |
| [SAN LUIS AND THE SALINE DESERT.] | |
| Don Manuel the Capataz.—His Services as Baqueano.—A Mendoza Troop of Carts.—Approach to the “Interior Town.”—Appearance of San Luis de la Punta.—The Governor.—Indian Troubles.—A Captive.—Indian Attack.—Treatment of Foreigners.—On the Travesia.—Watering Places.—Cacti.—Cochineal.—Condiments.—Saline Mineral.—Its Properties and Analysis by Dr. A. A. Hayes.—Conjectures as to its Origin. | [165] |
| [CHAPTER XII.] | |
| [ON THE TRAVESIA.] | |
| We cross the Desaguadero.—Artificial Canals.—La Paz.—Results of Irrigation.—View of the Andes.—An Invitation to Dinner.—Gormandizing of the Peons.—Santa Rosa.—Goats.—Alto Verde.—Camp on the Road.—A Bath.—Goitre.—Preparations for entering Mendoza.—The little China.—Arrogance of the Santiagueños.—Plants of the Travesia.—Dwellings.—A Dialogue.—We enter the Town.—An English Doctor.—Cool Treatment.—Circo Olympico.—A Visit to Plaza Nueva. | [182] |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | |
| [MENDOZA.] | |
| A Disappointment.—Mendoza.—The Alameda.—The Governor.—Houses, Churches, &c.—Doings of the Priests.—The Confessionals.—Padre A.—Madcap young Ladies.—Musical Bells.—Theatre.—Inhabitants.—The Goitre.—San Vicente.—School Library.—Newspaper and Press of Vansice.—Celebration of the 25th of May.—Soldiers.—Circus Performers.—Arrival of Indians from the South.—Veracity of the Cacique.—The Correo and his Men.—Casuchas.—Snow Travel.—A new Character Introduced.—Destruction of the City.—Departure for San Juan.—The consuming Lake.—Fishes.—Arrival at San Juan. | [195] |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | |
| [A WINTER IN SAN JUAN.] | |
| At San Juan.—Wet and dry Winters.—Don Guillermo Buenaparte.—Visit to Causete.—I become a Miller.—Natural History.—The Mill.—New Characters.—The Scenery.—A curious Lot.—Inhabitants of San Juan.—The Town.—Trade and Productions.—Agricultural Tools.—Irrigation.—Don José the Penitent. | [216] |
| [CHAPTER XV.] | |
| [A WINTER IN SAN JUAN—CONTINUED.] | |
| A Mine.—A new Acquaintance.—An Account of the Prowess of a Diablo.—His Dress.—Horse’s Trappings.—The Rastreador.—His Skill.—A Translation from Sarmiento. | [229] |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | |
| [VIENTE DE ZONDA.] | |
| Regarding the Zonda Wind.—Miers’s Opinion.—Courses of the Zondas.—A Wind of long Duration.—South Wind.—Speculations upon the Starting-point of the Zondas. | [239] |
| [CHAPTER XVII.] | |
| [ADVENTURES OF DON GUILLERMO BUENAPARTE.] | |
| Don Guillermo relates his Adventures.—Leaves New Bedford.—Deserts his Ship for another.—Rock of Dunda.—Terrapin Island.—Sufferings and Escape from the Place.—Marquesas Islands.—Leaves the Vessel.—Life among the Cannibals.—Cruel Fate of his Companions.—Settles down to Marquesan Life.—A Ship.—Escape of Don Guillermo.—Other Adventures.—Leaves Chili.—Additional Remarks. | [245] |
| [CHAPTER XVIII.] | |
| [CROSSING THE ANDES.] | |
| Preparations for leaving San Juan.—I leave the Mill.—The Post House—The Minister and his friendly Offer.—The Flecha.—El Durazno.—The Hut and its Occupants.—The Binchuca.—A bloodless Battle.—El Sequion.—Chinas.—A Troop of Mules, and a Night with the Capataz.—Up the Valley.—A Hut and a pretty Señorita.—An elevated Plain.—Camp.—Sunrise in the Andes.—The Road to Uspallata.—Don Fernando.—An Invitation.—Farewell to Uspallata.—Indian Structures.—A sad Tale.—Cueste de la Catedral.—La Punta de las Vacas. | [277] |
| [CHAPTER XIX.] | |
| [CROSSING THE ANDES—CONTINUED.] | |
| Descent of the Andes.—Baqueano Mule.—Waiting for the Snow to crust over.—Strange Scenery.—Below the Snow.—Another Snow-Hut.—A Drift.—Travellers from Chili.—Preparations for ascending the Cordillera.—Remedy for the Puna.—A hard Road.—On the Cumbre. | [296] |
| [CHAPTER XX.] | |
| [FROM THE ANDES TO THE PACIFIC.] | |
| Passage down the Valley.—Eyes of Water.—The Chilians and their Characteristics.—San Rosa.—A Chilian Welcome.—A Feast.—The River Aconcagua.—Quillota.—At Valparaiso.—Departure for Home. | [305] |
A THOUSAND MILES’ WALK.
CHAPTER I.
PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA.
One cold November morning, in compliance with previous orders, I reported myself ready for duty at the shipping office of Messrs. S. and K., Commercial Street, Boston, and having received, as is customary, one month’s wages in advance, proceeded with my baggage to Battery Wharf, at the foot of which lay the bark M., destined to be my future home for many weeks. As but one of the crew had already gone on board, I had ample leisure for examining the vessel, on board of which I was to receive my first lessons in practical seamanship, and to endure privations hitherto happily unknown to me. The M. was not prepossessing in appearance, and I confess that her model did not give a favorable idea of her sailing qualities: vessels, like horses, have peculiar external points by which their virtues may be judged, and their speed determined. As I gazed upon her long, straight sides, square bows, and box-like hull, it seemed to me that her builders must have mistaken her ends; for, certes, had her spars been reversed, she would have made better progress by sailing stern foremost. Some knowing ones, who have since examined this specimen of marine architecture of twenty years ago, have sustained my suspicion that the M. belonged to that enduring fleet of cruisers, now scattered over the great deep, which were originally built in the State of Maine, of which report is made that “these vessels are built by the mile, and sawed off according to the length ordered by the buyer.”
The mate, who was occupied in receiving live stock,—i. e., two young pigs,—ordered me to stow my things “for’ard;” an order somewhat difficult to comply with, as the forecastle was well filled with firewood, ropes, blocks, swabs, and the various other articles used on shipboard.
I crawled down the dark passage, and was feeling about to discover the dimensions of a sailor’s home, doubting, meanwhile, whether, in reality, this narrow hole could be the abode intended for human beings, when suddenly a gruff voice called down to me, “Come, youngster, bear a hand! Make yourself lively! We must clean out this shop before the crew come down; stir yourself, and pass me up the pieces.” Obeying these peremptory commands, I applied myself to work, and in an hour’s time my companion declared the place “ship-shape, and fit for sailors.” I would remark, en passant, that this declaration was made in the face of the fact that mould and dust covered the timbers and boards, and cockroaches filled the many crevices. “But,” said my companion, with a philosophical air, “if the place were carpeted, and lighted with a fine lamp, the fellows would be the more dissatisfied; the better treated they are, the worse they growl.” At the time I inwardly dissented from the truth of this remark; but subsequent experiences taught me the old salt was right.
As I had been of service in removing all the lumber, I thought to repay myself by securing a good bunk, and therefore chose an upper one. After I had given it a thorough cleaning, and had carefully stowed away my mattress and blanket, one of the new crew entered the forecastle, and, on noticing my labors, at once removed my bed, and placed his own in its place, remarking, at the same time, that it was a highly impolite and lubberly action for an understrapper to “bunk down where he didn’t belong; upper bunks were men’s bunks; lower ones, boys’.” Although I pleaded ignorance of the etiquette of the forecastle, and selected another resting place, my shipmate continued his lecture on the rules of the sea, and hinted at the future “rope’s-endings from the little man aft,” as he called the mate, in store for me.