CONTENTS.
| LETTER I. | ||
| PAGE | ||
| Getting under Way—The Gulf Stream—Aspect of the Ocean—Formation of a Wave—SeaGems—The Second Mate, | [11] | |
| LETTER II. | ||
| A Dog at Sea—Dining, with a High Sea—Sea Birds—Tandem of Whales—Speaking aMan-of-War—Havre, | [18] | |
| LETTER III. | ||
| Havre—French Bed-room—The Cooking—Chance Impressions, | [25] | |
| LETTER IV. | ||
| Pleasant Companion—Normandy—Rouen—Eden of Cultivation—St. Denis—Entranceto Paris—Lodgings—Walk of Discovery—Palais Royal, | [30] | |
| LETTER V. | ||
| Gallery of the Louvre—Greenough—Feeling as a Foreigner—Solitude in the Louvre—LouisPhilippe—The Poles—Napoleon II, | [40] | |
| LETTER VI. | ||
| Taglioni—French Acting—French Applause—Leontine Fay, | [48] | |
| LETTER VII. | ||
| Lelewel—Pére La Chaise—Pauvre Marie—Versailles—The Trianons—Josephine'sBoudoir—Time and Money at Paris—Wives and Fuel—One Price Shops, | [53] | |
| LETTER VIII. | ||
| Mr. Cooper—Mr. Greenough—Fighting Animals—The Dog Pit—Fighting Donkey—SportingEnglishmen, | [63] | |
| LETTER IX. | ||
| Malibran—Paris at a Late Hour—Glass Gallery—Cloud and Sunshine—General Romarino—ParisianStudents—Tumult Ended, | [70] | |
| LETTER X. | ||
| French Children—Royal Equipages—French Driving—City Riding—Parisian Picturesque—Beggar'sDeception—Genteel Beggars, | [78] | |
| LETTER XI. | ||
| Madame Mars—Franklin's House—Ball for the Poor—Theatrical Splendor—LouisPhilippe—Duke of Orleans—Young Queen of Portugal—Don Pedro—Close of theBall, | [86] | |
| LETTER XII. | ||
| Champs Elysées—Louis Philippe—Literary Dinner—Bowring and others—The Poles—Dr.Howe's Mission, | [96] | |
| LETTER XIII. | ||
| Club Gambling House—Frascati's—Female Gambler, | [103] | |
| LETTER XIV. | ||
| Tuileries—Men of Mark—Cooper and Morse—Contradictions—Dinner Hour—How toDine Well, | [107] | |
| LETTER XV. | ||
| The Emperor—Turenne—Lady Officer—Gambling Quarrel—Curious Antagonists—Influenceof Paris, | [114] | |
| LETTER XVI. | ||
| Cholera Gaieties—Cholera Patient—Morning in Paris—Cholera Hospital—New Patient—Physician'sIndifference—Punch Remedy—Dead Room—Non-Contagion, | [121] | |
| LETTER XVII. | ||
| Unexpected Challenge—Court Presentation—Louis Philippe—Royal Family at Tea—CountessGuiccioli—Mardi Gras—Bal Costumé—Public Masks—Lady Cavalier—Ballat the Palace—Duke of Orleans—Dr. Bowring—Celebrated Men—Glass Verandah, | [131] | |
| LETTER XVIII. | ||
| Cholera—Social Tea Party—Recipe for Caution—Baths and Happiness, | [146] | |
| LETTER XIX. | ||
| Bois de Boulogne—Guiccioli—Sismondi—Cooper, | [151] | |
| LETTER XX. | ||
| Friend of Lady Morgan—Dr. Spurzheim—Cast-Taking—De Potter—David theSculptor, | [156] | |
| LETTER XXI. | ||
| Attractions of Paris—Mr. Cooper—Mr. Rives, | [162] | |
| LETTER XXII. | ||
| Chalons—Sens—Auxerre—St. Bris—Three Views In One—Chalons, | [166] | |
| LETTER XXIII. | ||
| Boat on the Saone—Scenery above Lyons—Lyons—Churches at Lyons—Monastery, | [173] | |
| LETTER XXIV. | ||
| Travelling Party—Breakfast on the Road—Localities of Antiquity—Picturesque Chateau—FrenchPatois, | [179] | |
| LETTER XXV. | ||
| Arles—The Cathedral—Marseilles—Parting with Companions—Pass of Ollioules—Toulon—Antibes—Coastof Mediterranean—Forced to Return—Lazaretto—AbsurdHindrances—Fear of Contagion—Sleep out of Doors—Lazaretto Occupations—DeliciousSunday—New Arrivals—Companions—End of Quarantine, | [185] | |
| LETTER XXVI. | ||
| Nice—Funeral of an Arch-Duchess—Nice to Genoa—Views—Entrance to Genoa—Genoa, | [204] | |
| LETTER XXVII. | ||
| The Venus—The Fornarina—A Coquette and the Arts—A Festa—Ascension Day—TheCascine—Madame Catalani, | [211] | |
| LETTER XXVIII. | ||
| Titian's Bella—The Grand-Duchess—An Improvisatrice—Living in Florence—Lodgingsat Florence—Expense of Living, | [219] | |
| LETTER XXIX. | ||
| Companions—Scenery of Romagna—Wives—Bologna, | [225] | |
| LETTER XXX. | ||
| Gallery at Bologna—A Guido—Churches—Confession-Chapel—Festa—AgreeableManners, | [231] | |
| LETTER XXXI. | ||
| Regatta—Venetian Sunset—Privileged Admission—Guillotining—Bridge of Sighs—SanMarc—The Nobleman Beggar, | [238] | |
| LETTER XXXII. | ||
| An Evening in Venice—The Streets of Venice—The Rialto—Sunset from San Marc, | [246] | |
| LETTER XXXIII. | ||
| Titian's Pictures—Last Day in Venice, | [251] | |
| LETTER XXXIV. | ||
| Italian Civility—Juliet's Tomb—The Palace of the Capuletti—A Dinner, | [254] | |
| LETTER XXXV. | ||
| Good and Ill-Breeding—Bridal Party, | [259] | |
| LETTER XXXVI. | ||
| Manner of Living—Originals of Novels—Ill, | [262] | |
| LETTER XXXVII. | ||
| The Duke of Lucca—Modena—The Palace—Bologna—Venice Again—Its Splendor, | [266] | |
| LETTER XXXVIII. | ||
| Armenian Island—Agreeable Monk—Insane Hospital—Insane Patients—The Lagune—StateGalley—Instruments of Torture, | [273] | |
| LETTER XXXIX. | ||
| Venice at Evening—The Patriotism of a Noble—Church of St. Antony—Petrarch'sCottage and Tomb—Petrarch's Room, | [281] | |
| LETTER XL. | ||
| Cultivation of the Fields—The Vintage—Malibran in Gazza Ladra—Gallery of theLambaccari, | [287] | |
| LETTER XLI. | ||
| Sienna—Catholic Devotion—Acquapendente—Lake Bolsena—Vintage Festa—MonteCimino—First Sight of Rome—Baccano, | [292] | |
| LETTER XLII. | ||
| St. Peter's—The Apollo Belvidere—Raphael's Transfiguration—The Pantheon—TheForum, | [301] | |
| LETTER XLIII. | ||
| The Falls of Tivoli—Villa of Adrian—A Ramble by Moonlight—The CloacaMaxima, | [307] | |
| LETTER XLIV. | ||
| The Last Judgment—The Music—Gregory the Sixteenth, | [312] | |
| LETTER XLV. | ||
| Byron's Statue—The Borghese Palace—Society of Rome, | [316] | |
| LETTER XLVI. | ||
| The Climate—Falls of Terni—The Clitumnus—A Lesson not Lost—Thrasimene—Florence—FlorentineWomen—Need of an Ambassador, | [320] | |
| LETTER XLVII. | ||
| Chat in the Ante-Chamber—Love in High Life—Ball at the Palazzo Pitti—The GrandDuke—An Italian Beauty—An English Beauty, | [329] | |
| LETTER XLVIII. | ||
| Oxen of Italy—Vallombrosa—A Convent Dinner—Vespers at Vallombrosa—TheMonk's Estimate of Women—Milton's Room—Florence, | [336] | |
| LETTER XLIX. | ||
| The House of Michael Angelo—Fiesole—San Miniato—Christmas Eve—AmusingScenes in Church, | [344] | |
| LETTER L. | ||
| Penitential Processions—The Carlist Refugees—The Miracle of Rain—The MiraculousPicture—Giovanni Di Bologna—Andrea Del Sarto, | [350] | |
| LETTER LI. | ||
| The Entertainments of Florence—A Peasant Beauty—The Morality of Society—TheItalian Cavalier—The Features of Society, | [357] | |
| LETTER LII. | ||
| Artists and the French Academy—Beautiful Scenery—Sacred Woods of Bolsena, | [363] | |
| LETTER LIII. | ||
| The Virtuoso of Viterbo—Robberies—Rome as Fancied—Rome as Found, | [367] | |
| LETTER LIV. | ||
| The Fountain of Egeria—The Pontine Marshes—Mola—The Falernian Hills—TheDoctor of St. Agatha—The Queen of Naples, | [372] | |
| LETTER LV. | ||
| St. Peter's—The Fountains—The Obelisk—The Forum—Its Memories—The Cenci—Claude'sPictures—Fancies Realized—The Last of the Dorias—A Picture by LeonardoDa Vinci—Palace of the Cesars—An Hour on the Palatine, | [379] | |
| LETTER LVI. | ||
| Roman Eyes versus Feet—Vespers at Santa Trinita—Roman Baths—Baths of Titus—Shelley'sHaunt, | [390] | |
| LETTER LVII. | ||
| The Tomb of the Scipios—The Early Christians—The Tomb of Metella—Fountain ofEgeria—Changed Aspect of Rome, | [396] | |
| LETTER LVIII. | ||
| Palm Sunday—A Crowd—The Miserere—A Judas—The Washing of Feet—TheDinner, | [402] | |
| LETTER LIX. | ||
| The Protestant Cemetery—Shelley's Grave—Beauty of the Place—Keats—Dr. Bell, | [409] | |
| LETTER LX. | ||
| Audience with the Pope—Humility and Pride in Contrast—The Miserere at St.Peter's—Italian Moonlight—Dancing at the Coliseum, | [415] | |
| LETTER LXI. | ||
| Easter Sunday—The Pope's Blessing—Illumination of St. Peter's—Florentine Sociability—AMarriage of Convenience, | [421] | |
| LETTER LXII. | ||
| The Correggio—Austrians in Italy—The Cathedral at Milan—Guercino's Hagar—MilaneseCoffee, | [427] | |
| LETTER LXIII. | ||
| Still in Italy—Isola Bella—Ascent of the Simplon—Farewell to Italy—An American—Descentof the Simplon, | [433] | |
| LETTER LXIV. | ||
| The Cretins—The Goitre—First Sight of Lake Leman—Mont Blanc—June in Geneva—TheWinkelreid, | [440] | |
| LETTER LXV. | ||
| American and Genevese Steamers—Lilies of the Valley—A Frenchman's Apology—GeneveseWomen—Voltaire's Room, | [446] | |
| LETTER LXVI. | ||
| The Jura—Arrival at Morez—Lost my Temper—National Characteristics—Politenessversus Comfort, | [452] | |
| LETTER LXVII. | ||
| Lafayette's Funeral—Crossing the Channel—An English Inn—Mail Coaches andHorses—A Gentleman Driver—A Subject for Madame Trollope, | [458] | |
| LETTER LXVIII. | ||
| First Dinner in London—The King's Birth-day—A Handsome Street—Introductionto Lady Blessington—A Chat about Bulwer—The D'Israeli's—Contrast of Criticism—CountessGuiccioli—Lady Blessington—An Apology, | [465] | |
| LETTER LXIX. | ||
| An Evening at Lady Blessington's—Fonblanc—Tribute to American Authors—ASketch of Bulwer—Bulwer's Conversation—An Author his own Critic, | [476] | |
| LETTER LXX. | ||
| Ascot Races—Handsome Men—The Princess Victoria—Charles Lamb—Mary Lamb—Lamb'sConversation—The Breakfast at Fault, | [483] | |
| LETTER LXXI. | ||
| A Dinner at Lady Blessington's—D'Israeli, the Younger—The Author of Vathek—Mr.Beckford's Whims—Irish Patriotism—The Effect of Eloquence, | [491] | |
| LETTER LXXII. | ||
| The Opera House—What Books will pay for—English Beauty—A Belle's Criticism onSociety—Celebrities, | [498] | |
| LETTER LXXIII. | ||
| Breakfast with Proctor—A Story of Hazlitt—Procter as a Poet—Impressions of theMan, | [504] | |
| LETTER LXXIV. | ||
| Moore's Dread of Criticism—Moore's Love of Rank—A generous Offer nobly Refused—ASacrifice to Jupiter—The Election of Speaker—Miss Pardoe—Prices of Books, | [509] | |
| LETTER LXXV. | ||
| Dinner at Lady Blessington's—Scott—The Italians—Scott's Mode of Living—O'Connell—Grattan—Moore'sManner of Talking—Lady Blessington's Tact—Moore's Singing—ACurious Incident—The Maid Metamorphosed, | [517] | |
PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY.
LETTER I.
At Sea.—I have emerged from my berth this morning for the first time since we left the Capes. We have been running six or seven days before a strong northwest gale, which, by the scuds in the sky, is not yet blown out, and my head and hand, as you will see by my penmanship, are anything but at rights. If you have ever plunged about in a cold rain-storm at sea for seven successive days, you can imagine how I have amused myself.
I wrote to you after my pilgrimage to the tomb of Washington. It was almost the only object of natural or historical interest in our own country that I had not visited, and that seen, I made all haste back to embark, in pursuance of my plans of travel, for Europe. At Philadelphia I found a first-rate merchant-brig, the Pacific, on the eve of sailing for Havre. She was nearly new, and had a French captain, and no passengers—three very essential circumstances to my taste—and I took a berth in her without hesitation. The next day she fell down the river, and on the succeeding morning I followed her with the captain in the steamboat.
Some ten or fifteen vessels, bound on different voyages, lay in the roads waiting for the pilot boat; and, as she came down the river, they all weighed anchor together and we got under way. It was a beautiful sight—so many sail in close company under a smart breeze, and I stood on the quarter-deck and watched them in a mood of mingled happiness and sadness till we reached the Capes. There was much to elevate and much to depress me. The dream of my lifetime was about to be realized. I was bound to France; and those fair Italian cities, with their world of association and interest were within the limit of a voyage; and all that one looks to for happiness in change of scene, and all that I had been passionately wishing and imagining since I could dream a day-dream or read a book, was before me with a visible certainty; but my home was receding rapidly, perhaps for years, and the chances of death and adversity in my absence crowded upon my mind—and I had left friends—(many—many—as dear to me, any one of them, as the whole sum of my coming enjoyment), whom a thousand possible accidents might remove or estrange; and I scarce knew whether I was more happy or sad.
We made Cape Henlopen about sundown, and all shortened sail and came to. The little boat passed from one to another, taking off the pilots, and in a few minutes every sail was spread again, and away they went with a dashing breeze, some on one course some on another, leaving us in less than an hour, apparently alone on the sea. By this time the clouds had grown black, the wind had strengthened into a gale, with fits of rain; and as the order was given to "close-reef the top-sails," I took a last look at Cape Henlopen, just visible in the far edge of the horizon, and went below.