Practical hints to builders and those contemplating building / Facts worth considering relating to foundation, cellar, kitchen, chimney, cistern, brick-work, mortar, heating, ventilation, the roof, and many items of interest to builders.

by National Sheet Metal Roofing Co.

This can be accomplished in a simple and inexpensive manner by nailing strips 1 × 1½ inches along the side of each joist, the top edge of each strip to be two inches below the top surface of the joist. On top of these strips lay a floor of rough boards. Second-hand material answers every purpose for the floor, as the boards need not be matched or of even thickness.

On the top of this rough floor spread a covering of coarse mortar gauged level with the top edge of the joist. When the mortar is dry lay the floor in the usual manner. It takes a long time for fire to burn through a floor laid in this manner, and sound is deadened completely by the mass of non-conducting mortar and the double floors. For fire-proofing and deadening partitions in an effective way, build a four-inch brick wall between the studding. A nail driven every ten or twelve inches in the side of the studding, on the line of the mortar joint, will hold the wall firmly between the studding. Where brick is scarce or expensive, sun dried brick made from stiff clay is a good substitute. They can be made 12 × 12 inches, and thick enough to come within ⅜ of an inch of the lathing. The mortar keys impinging against the wall make the plastering firmer and consequently stronger.

The expense of fire-proofing and deadening in this manner is so small, it is surprising it is not more generally adopted. If the flooring is laid before the mortar used between the joists is dry, it will cause the boards to swell and may bulge them; and when they finally become dry will leave ugly looking cracks where they join. Remember, you cannot have a well built house without giving Nature time to do her work.

DIRECTIONS FOR LAYING WALTER’S PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES.

Cut I.

Shows manner of finishing with Climax Ridge Stop Block and Gable End Finish.

Commence at the lower left-hand corner. In starting be particular to see that you start straight with the eaves of the building. To do this it is best to draw a chalk line about twelve inches from the eaves; this distance leaves two inches to project from the eaves, which in many cases is more than sufficient. If you use our Gable End Finish (Cut I) it saves the trouble of fitting the shingles to the verge board, and adds to the appearance of the roof. After nailing the Gable End Finish to its place, press the left-hand edge of the first shingle well under the fold of the Gable End Finish, and before nailing it hook two or three shingles with the top edge on a line with your chalk line; then remove the loose shingles, and nail the first one which is held to its proper place by the Gable End Finish. By doing this in starting each course you are sure of a straight line if you follow correctly the gauge lines at the top of each shingle.