The city is distant from the Pacific Ocean, nearly seventy-five miles and from the Gulf of Mexico twice that distance. There were probably two reasons which influenced the Spaniards to locate their capitals inland; one of these was for safety and the other because, in these tropical lands, the climate along the coast is hot, rainy, and fever-stricken. It was certainly not for the convenience of commerce, for all imports and exports had to be transported over narrow and rough trails on the backs of men and mules, for a long period, before a roadway was completed to the Pacific port of San Jose. Governors and Archbishops, common Spaniards and humble natives, were obliged to ride over those trails on the backs of horses or mules, and generally that of the latter obliging, but contrary, “critters.”
The city is a typical Spanish-American town in architecture, although recent improvements have taken away the monastic appearance that used to prevail. The streets are straight and narrow and laid out at right angles to each other. The ones running north and south are called avenidas (avenues), and those east and west, calles (streets). The sidewalks are paved with smooth flagstones and are almost on a level with the roughly-paved roadway which slopes toward the centre for drainage. The streets are bordered on both sides by low, one-storied buildings whose tile roofs once red are now a dirty brown, and whose plastered walls once white are now soiled and blotched by the pieces of plaster which have been broken out. The walls are usually of adobe (sun-dried) brick, or stone, covered with stucco, and are several feet thick in order to defy any but the most severe earthquake shocks. The windows are broad and high, and are protected by iron bars like the windows of a prison cell. If the house is so fortunate as to have a second story, then a neat little iron or wooden balcony is erected in front of them. There is one entrance to the house and that is guarded by great, heavy doors studded with big nails, and fastened with a massive lock fit only for a mediaeval castle. The keys to these locks are frequently eight or ten inches long and would fit no keyring that is on the market to-day. Carriages, market people, and high-born ladies, all use this common entrance which leads into the patio around which the house is invariably built. These patios take the place of the lawn in northern homes and are frequently beautiful little miniature gardens filled with tropical plants and fragrant with the blossoms of many flowers. The living rooms all open out upon this court, and here, sheltered from the wind, the people can bask in the sun when it is cool and occupy the shady side when it is hot, and thus keep themselves fairly comfortable without the aid of fires or electric fans.
A TYPICAL STREET IN GUATEMALA CITY.
The Plaza de Armas, which is in the center of the city, is quite a pretty square and is surrounded on three sides by public buildings, while on the other side are retail stores with the portales so common in these countries. On the north side is the municipal building, on the west side the National Palace and government barracks, and on the east side lies the Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace. In the centre is a delightful little garden surrounded by an iron fence, within which are many exquisite flowers and pretty plants with wine coloured leaves. A few evergreens, fountains, a statue of Cristobal Colon, the ever present band-stand, and an old square stone tower, or temple, with an equestrian statue of Charles IV of Spain complete the adornments of this square. Across one side rattle the little toy street-cars, and now and then a hooded victoria slips through, the top drawn like a vizor over the inside, so that all you can see is the tip of a chin or a bit of white parasol. It is not pleasant for the ladies to appear on the street unless they are very plain.
THE PRESIDENT’S GUARD OF HONOUR.
In front of the National Palace a company of the President’s Guard of Honour parades each morning. This organization comprises about five hundred picked men from the army who actually wear shoes and a jaunty cap, and their uniforms look as bright as a working-man’s new suit of blue jeans, and they are of the same material. A good military band plays, and, aided by the music, the company manages to keep step occasionally, but only occasionally, for that little matter does not seem to them very important. Sedate Spaniards, descendants of the proud hidalgos, and Indians whose progenitors built the great palaces, or temples, at Palenque, Copan and Quirigua, mingle here, and types of several centuries may be seen side by side. Customs of the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries are here intermingled, but the twentieth century can hardly be said to have reached this city. The Indian with his pack on his back passes by followed by a mule dray, but the gasoline devil-wagon has not yet made its appearance in this city, and the warning horn of the street-cars takes the place of the honk-honk of the automobile.
At night when the band concerts are given the plaza is a good place to study the people, for all classes turn out in great numbers and parade around the central portion. The cock-of-the-walk on such occasions is the student of the military academy who struts around much-bedecked in a red uniform covered with gold braid, and with his sword invariably trailing on the ground—much resembling the peacock on dress parade with his tail feathers fluttering in the breeze. The young dandies are there with their bamboo sticks, tailor-made clothes and smoking their abominable cigarettes. A few foreign drummers or concessionaires stalk around the plaza side by side with the substratum of ladinos in their shabby attire. A few families may stroll around with their little girls in stiff little white gloves and their shy, velvety eyes turning this way and that without a sign of recognition.
The most imposing of all the churches of the city, the Cathedral, and the same may be said of all Spanish churches, is elaborately ornamented with carving, giving it a rococo, or overdone, effect, but the proportions are good. It is flanked by two square towers. The entrance is approached by many steps and is guarded by four colossal saints supposed to represent the four evangelists. They are not very saintly in appearance, being carved out of a very rough coarse stone and very much weather-beaten. There are also several pillars with urns on top, thus adding a Roman effect. The interior gives a general impression of roominess with its fine aisles, but the blue and white effect of the ceiling is not very pleasing, although different from anything I had ever seen in church decoration. The floor is paved with stone. There is a large main altar and a number of gilt side altars with the usual collection of decorated wooden saints. A number of images clad in gauze and gaily-hued angels with tiaras are placed within the various altars, while the Virgin wears a fine velvet gown embroidered with gold thread. The structure is about two hundred and seventy-five feet long. Adjoining this is the Episcopal Palace, which has on many occasions been the centre of political intrigue and sedition before the late President Rufino Barrios curbed the power of the clergy.