LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| PAGE | |
| A Belle of Tehuantepec ([See page 180]) | [Frontispiece] |
| Snow-capped Popocatapetl | [4] |
| General Map of Mexico | [6] |
| An Indian Maiden | [10] |
| “The Land of Burros and Sombreros” | [22] |
| Market Scene in San Luis Potosi | [30] |
| Cock-fighting in Mexico | [33] |
| The Maguey | [41] |
| Map of the Valley of Mexico | [46] |
| The Patio of an Old Residence | [48] |
| The Cathedral | [60] |
| A Picturesque Pulque Shop | [66] |
| The Calendar Stone | [77] |
| Scenes on the Viga Canal | [82] |
| Castle of Chapultepec | [86] |
| Bridge at Orizaba.—The Buzzards of Vera Cruz.—Avenue of Palms, Vera Cruz | [98] |
| An Indian Home in the Hot Country | [104] |
| Rice Culture | [109] |
| The Aqueduct, Oaxaca.—A Fountain in Oaxaca | [116] |
| The Market-women of Oaxaca.—The Pottery-market, Oaxaca | [118] |
| Crossing the River on Market-day | [121] |
| The Market, Tehuantepec | [132] |
| Entrance to the Underground Chamber, Mitla.—North Temple, Mitla.—Hall of the Monoliths, Mitla | [157] |
| A Zapoteco Woman | [161] |
| “Playing the Bear” | [170] |
| Washing on the Banks of a Stream | [177] |
| A Peon and His Wife | [184] |
| A Cargador | [198] |
| Making Tortillas | [215] |
| A Mexican Market | [218] |
| Candy Boy and Girl | [220] |
| Burning an Effigy of Judas at Easter-time | [233] |
| Candle Booths in Guadalupe | [240] |
| Beggars of the City of Mexico | [242] |
| Planting the Banderillas | [250] |
| An Aztec Schoolgirl | [266] |
| Peon Miners at Lunch | [280] |
| Along the Mexican Southern Railway | [300] |
| Wayside Shrine with an Offering of Flowers | [312] |
| A Rurale | [332] |
| Army Headquarters, City of Mexico | [336] |
| A Village Church | [364] |
| A Company of Rurales | [370] |
| Sr. Don Francisco I. Madero | [411] |
| A Group of Peons | [419] |
| Tarahumari Indians | [421] |
| Crumbling Ruins of the Ancient Mexican Civilization | [441] |
| An Old Church | [451] |
| Primitive Transportation | [457] |
| Primitive Ploughing near Oaxaca | [465] |
MEXICO AND HER PEOPLE TO-DAY
CHAPTER I
AZTEC LAND
Prescott says: “Of all that extensive empire which once acknowledged the authority of Spain in the New World, no portion for interest and importance, can be compared with Mexico;—and this equally, whether we consider the variety of its soil and climate; the inexhaustible stores of its mineral wealth; its scenery, grand and picturesque beyond example; the character of its ancient inhabitants, not only far surpassing in intelligence that of the other North American races, but reminding us, by their monuments, of the primitive civilization of Egypt and Hindoostan; or, lastly, the peculiar circumstances of its conquest, adventurous and romantic as any legend devised by Norman or Italian bard of chivalry.”
Mexico is a country in which the old predominates. The American visitor will bring back more distinct recollections of the Egyptian carts and plows, the primitive manners and customs, than he will of the evidences of modern civilization. An educated Mexican whom I met, chided the Americans for this tendency, for, said he, “all that is written of Mexico is descriptive of the Indians and their habits, while progressive Mexico is ignored.” This is to a great extent true, for it is the unique and ancient that attracts and holds the attention of the traveller. For this reason tourists go to Egypt to see the pyramids, sphinx and tombs of the Pharaohs.