A REMARKABLE VISITATION OF CRABS.
I have seen a good many crabs in other waters, but never one-hundredth part as many as suddenly appeared on the shore of Sterling Bay, in the latter days of July. The lowest estimate by any one who saw them, was tens of thousands. The bottom in places was so thickly covered that nothing but crabs were visible, and Messrs. McGregor and Smith reported having found them two or three feet in depth. They were not the coarse, overgrown, worthless sea crab, but a good eating variety, which, for some unknown cause had come there in such great numbers, for the purpose casting their shells. They remained about ten days, when they left in a body, leaving a winrow of their old shells on the beach. Mr. Alexader McKenzie reports a similar visitation at Massett, the first known during his six years' residence on the island.
RETURN TO MASSETT—VISIT FROM CHIEF EDENSAW.
Through the kindness of Capt. Meyer, and Purser Williams, of the steamer "Princess Louise," my whole outfit, men, canoe and supplies, were taken to Massett, at which point I resumed the examination of Massett Inlet, which being concluded, we explored in succession Virago Sound, Naden Harbor, and all the bays, inlets and harbors of the west coast of Graham Island, and the streams flowing into these waters. I had just taken possession of the quarters kindly assigned me by Mr. Alexander McKenzie of the Hudson Bay Company, when we received a visit from Edensaw, oldest and ranking chief of the Hydah nation, who has erected the largest number of carved poles, given the greatest feasts, and made the most frequent and liberal potlatches. Though about seventy-five years of age, he is still quite vigorous, and being well dressed in a suit of broad cloth, would easily pass for a much younger man. He is the last of a race of powerful chiefs, his ancestors having been bold and aggressive warriors, making many captive slaves from the other coast tribes. He is also a distinguised brave, but never fought with his own people, and has always been friendly to the whites. On one occasion he risked his own life to release the captain and crew of a small vessel, the "Susan Sturgess," which had been made captive by the Indians of Massett. He has succeeded one after another of the chiefs of various parts of the group by virtue of the erection of carved poles to their memory, bountiful feasts and generous potlatches to their people, until he is now recognized as their greatest chief.
UP THE YAKOUN RIVER.
Early in August we had reached the mouth of the Yakoun river, the largest stream on the island. Hundreds of salmon and salmon trout were jumping out their full length, as we paddled along under the shadows of the tall spruce which cover its banks. Advancing about a mile, we camped with a party of Massett Indians, who sold us splendid silver salmon for twenty-five cents, and potatoes at the rate of eight dollars a bushel. The following day, accompanied by a single Massett Indian, I ascended the river for several miles, by means of two very small canoes, making several portages around log jambs over rapids and shallow places. About three miles up, two old Indians and two naked boys, tending a salmon trap, were roasting splendid salmon trout, which they shared with us. They were living exclusively upon fish, which they ate without salt, generally cooked upon a stick inclined over the fire. For about 200 miles we coursed along the shores of Massett Inlet, whose long south-western arms reach the base of steep, high mountains, the western sides of which, from ten to fifteen miles distant are washed by the waters of the Pacific. Chief Edensaw told me that in former times the Indians to the south with whom the Hydahs were at war, sometimes crossed over these mountains from the end of Kio-kath-li Inlet on the west coast, and taking their people by surprise, carried away captive their fairest young women.
RUNNING RAPIDS IN A ROTTEN CANOE.
Among our trips inland, was one of about ten miles up the Ain River to Coos-Yoouns lake its Sourse. This is a fine body of water, about eight miles in length, surrounded by a thick forest of spruce, red and yellow cedar. The river from fifty to seventy-five feet in width is a succession of rapids—log-jambs and shoals almost its entire length. Following a trail about half way to the borders of a little lake through which it flows, we found a canoe, very small, old, rotten and shattered. The water poured in through a long crack in one end, nearly as fast as we could bail it out. But by battening with our provision sack, we managed to keep it afloat until we had accomplished the round trip to the lake first mentioned, by making several portages over log jambs, shoals and rapids. Returning, I decided to run one of the latter, and just as my men got out to lighten the canoe over a rocky place, pushed out into the middle of the stream.
Down my little bark swept, toward a narrow passage between two rocks, around which the water was whirling and foaming. I had under-estimated the strength of the current, and in spite of my best efforts with one serviceable hand, the canoe dashed on to one of the rocks, balanced a moment on its centre, whirled once around, and then shot down stream, quivering like a frightened animal, into safe water again.