§ XV.
Of Vegetables.
As the difference of climates renders the productions of different countries more or less early, and varies their qualities, kinds and denominations,[M] attention will be given by the operator to the circumstances of the spot in which he resides.
At Paris and its environs, June and July are the best months for preserving green peas (petits pois verts), small windsor beans (petites fèves de marais), and asparagus (asperge). At a later period, these vegetables suffer greatly from heat and dryness. In August and September I preserve artichokes (artichauts), French beans (haricots verts et blancs), and cauliflowers (choux-fleurs).
In general, all vegetables intended to be preserved should be used as recently gathered as possible, and prepared with the utmost rapidity, so that there should be as it were, but one step from the garden-bed to the water-bath.
§ XVI.
Green Peas.
(Petits pois verts.)
The clamart and the crochu are the two kinds of peas which I prefer, especially the latter, which is the most juicy and sweet of all, as well as the earliest, except the michaux (hastings), which is the first pea, but this kind is not fit to be preserved. I gather the peas when they are not too young and tender, for they are apt to dissolve in water during the operation. I take them when they are of a middling size. They are then in a more perfect state, and have an infinitely finer taste and flavour. I shell them as soon as they are gathered. I separate the large ones, and they are then put in bottles, the bottles being for that purpose placed on the stool before mentioned, in order that as many peas as possible may, by shaking the bottle, be made to go into them; I then cork the bottles, &c. and put them in the water-bath, which is made to boil for an hour and half, if the season be cool and moist; and two hours in a dry and hot season; and I terminate the operation as before.
I also put in bottles the larger peas which I had separated from those which were more delicate. These, also, I put into the water-bath, which I let boil according to the season, two hours, or two hours and an half.