Guernsey pictorial directory and stranger's guide

by of Guernsey Thomas Bellamy

On this estate, in a sequestered little nook, half hid by the waving umbrage of the beech, is the Domaillerie cottage, remarkable as the only place where the Guernsey Lily grows wild, the leaves of which, in the month of September may be seen sprinkled as if with original gold dust, and at times there are from seven to nine bells on each stalk. This cottage is also the subject of a legend which represents it as once being inhabited by an extraordinary old woman, of a tall stooping figure and fierce black eyes. Until of late years it has been the cause of some superstitious speculation among the neighbouring peasantry, and a large stone, hid under piles of deep green foliage, still marks the spot where she expired. At present, the cottage is converted into a lumber-house, and a gothic window in the gable, gives it the appearance of an old catholic chapel.

At Lassy is a comfortable little inn, kept by one Alexander, who has got himself famous for a peculiar method in making pan-cakes, whereby he can almost suit the palate of every one. Here the stranger has an opportunity of a return by the omnibus, which on certain days passes this way.

At the point of Le Crocq, near Richmond, is a vertical stone, or fichade, which is evidently of some antiquity. In the neighbourhood are fragments of pottery, and some years ago stone instruments were picked up, together with a gold coin, which was recently found. On a promontory at Le Rée, near the isle of Lihou, is a cromlech, which has not received such damages, from the attrition of Time, as the rest. It is on the side of the road which leads to the above little isle, and at present consists of two large cap-stones, which measure about twenty feet across. They cover a considerable chamber, and are supported by a number of props. The entrance is at the East end, and the interior is dark and gloomy; the interstices being filled or blocked up with stones and other rubbish. Other cromlechs are pointed out as being in the neighbourhood, but there is no dependance on them, and the one above mentioned is said to be the far-famed "Creux des Fées," about half a mile from which is a small, but interesting one, consisting of three or four stones. Beneath it were found burnt ashes and bones, as also portions of urns and coarse pottery. It may be found on the top of the hill Catioroc, and is called by the peasantry "Le Trepied." These latter cromlechs are the property of Mr Bonamy Maingay, and are well worthy of notice.

The little isle of Lihou does not possess any Celtic remains, and this has been attributed to its early occupation by the monks, and the erection of a chapel and priory, which were built about the tenth or eleventh century, or some time before the consecration of the Valle church. The site of the chapel presents a heap of walls in ruins, and until lately were shrouded in gloomy night-shade and rank fox-glove, whose tendrils have for years supported the drooping arch, the fallen urn, and mouldering monument; and, as it were in mockery of the dead, clasping the falling column. Remnants of the chapel still remain, and excavations which have heretofore been made, have brought to light many curious details. It consisted of a chancel and a nave, with a square tower on its North-East side. It was vaulted with stone, and the North wall of the nave with a few feet of the roof is still standing. The above excavations were commenced in the chancel, the walls of which were just visible above the turf. It contained the ribs of the roof and portions of the columns and windows, the former of which were of Caen stone. On sinking to a depth of four feet a pavement of small green and red Norman tiles was discovered, and from observations made in different parts of the chapel, it would appear the whole had been thus paved. Under this pavement a few silver monastic coins and pennies of Edward I. were found. A range of buildings may be traced at the lower part of the chapel, overlooking the sea, and others have disappeared from the encroachment of the waves at spring-tides. In a Southern bank is a drain, apparently leading to the kitchen, in which were found large quantities of fish-bones, scales, and other matter. To the East is a walled enclosure, which is said to be the "garden"; at a short distance from this is a round-house or dovecot, where the monks reared their pigeons, and in an adjoining spot is a piece of ground which still goes by the name of the "Cimetière." At one end of the chancel are some steps which appear to be the chief entrance, and the rugged causeway leading from the island to the opposite shore is supposed to have been made by the monks. In the rocks on the South side are two natural baths, supposed to have been hollowed by the attrition of the waters and pebbles, as the action of the waves is remarkably strong here. They are supposed to have been used by the monks during the existence of the priory. The island is very much exposed and scarcely anything besides tufted herbage will grow there; nevertheless there is a good house, containing useful apartments and a fine billiard room and table.

Leaving Lihou on the other side of Rocquaine bay is a creek, on which were once some ruins.

Towards the sea the botanist will find abundance of eryngo or sea-holly, which is a truly marine plant and exceedingly nutritious, the young tops being eaten as asparagus; also fine specimens of samphire, which is far superior to that of Grande Rocque and the neighbourhood. Here, and in the vicinity of Lihou are the chief places for the gathering of vraic, which from the 17th of July to the 31st of August is one general scene of activity, and is well worthy the attention of the stranger, as it is a peculiar feature in the island character.

In this bustling affair he will observe bands of country people, men, women, and children, trooping towards the rocks in one uniform spirit of hilarity and glee, of whom some are not unfrequently crowned with flowers and other fantastical head-dresses. On the receding of the tide they disperse themselves among the rocks, the strongest, be it on horse-back or on foot, striving to attain the richest point. When the vraic is abundant they gather it with a kind of sickle or reaping hook, throwing it in heaps on a certain rock marked by a number of pebbles or chalking the name. Where carts are not accessible they bear it at full speed on horse-back, and some few on their shoulders. On the approach of the tide or end of their labour, the lads lead the lasses to bathe, which is a fund of amusement to those unaccustomed to the sight, for what with the merriment of the men and the shrieks of the timid girls, all is confusion and uproar. However this soon subsides as the evening mellow approaches, as there is no small expectation of something that exceeds all, inasmuch as it is usual to have an entertainment on the like scale. Such being the case, the country inns throw up a kind of canopy, which is tastefully decorated with flowers and surmounted with fern; the whole of the fabric being propped up with posts. A variety of cheer takes place, which is closed by an evening dance, generally undertaken by the young vraicquers. This highly characteristic native scenery is equally prevalent at the bays of Le Rée, La Parelle and the Vazon.

The land in this district is liberally supplied with vraic, which in connexion with a good active soil is capable of producing the best crops, especially potatoes, which in some instances are six Guernsey bushels to the perch, or at the rate of about twenty tons to the English acre. The farms are generally from thirty to forty vergées, and if there is a predominance of meadow land, they usually manure two vergées, which is about one fifteenth. In other districts they manure one in four, and disperse at least four loads to the vergée. The medical herbs are in usual character with those of Torteval and other upland parishes, wherefore the botanist will fall in with tolerable specimens of potentilla tormentilla, which according to the dryness of the soil, varies in its virtues as an astringent.