Guernsey pictorial directory and stranger's guide

by of Guernsey Thomas Bellamy

1. Dock Spade. 2. Fork Dock Weeder. 3. Hand Meadow Weeder. 4. Le Sarcleur. 5. La Fourchette du Jardin.

On the South side of this parish is the "Creux Mahie," or "Malière," which is an immense cavern, upwards of 200 feet in length, and 40 or 50 in width, and from 20 to 60 in height, having at times a curious vaulted roof, and a rough and uneven bottom. As the attrition of the water on this coast is very violent, it is supposed to have been formed by the waves, in common with other encroachments of the sea. On making an investigation, the visitor had better explore it by means of a bundle of furze, which being divided into several fires, and lit at distinct distances, will expose to him the whole mystification of the interior. He had also better apply to some of the neighbouring cottages for a guide, as the locality is intricate and difficult to make out.

Torteval church is a plain but neat building, and at once strikes the stranger as being remarkable for its tower and spire. From the top is an extensive view of the surrounding country.

To the artist, Torteval furnishes an highly picturesque district, and there seems, as it were, only one thing wanting, that the high and lofty crags, and abrupt rocks overlooking the sea were crowned with some "ivy-mantled tower," ruins or fragments of old castles. With this exception, it is in such scenes like this that the artist ought to roam; for here he can catch numerous ravines, projecting head-lands, and pinnacled masses, which are occasionally relieved by a few straggling sheep and distant trees. The abrupt hills break into numerous slopes and glens, leading in a Northerly direction; from hence arise those tortuous valleys which produce such diversified and rural scenery pictured in the centre of the island. The rocks furnish an abundant compound of gneiss, of which an interesting series may be discovered at "Les Thielles." Here alternate lines of dark strata may be seen traversing cliffs of reddish gneiss, which in the bay of "Bon Repos," are dashed into the most wanton state of confusion, their softer portions being worn away by the action of the pent up waves, which gush through the caverns of this fragment-like coast. In rough weather, and when the sea becomes confined within these narrow limits, the roar of the water and the lashing of the waves are such as to present one turbulent and fearful commotion, threatening instant and total destruction to any unfortunate vessel which should be driven on this dangerous coast.

In certain places, where proper shelter is granted, the soil of this parish is highly productive, and when manured at the rate of ten load of vraic per vergée, will occasionally produce upwards of 50 bushels of potatoes, though the general average is from 30 to 40 per vergée. Such soil lets for about 2l. 10s. per vergée. The hay is famed for its sweetness, and an English acre will throw off about three tons and a half; which, though by no means equal in quantity to that of the Valle, nevertheless gains the point in quality. Parsnips may be said to be small, and much inferior in size to those elsewhere, as the indurated state of the soil will not admit of a proper expansion of the root. These crops are about fifteen tons per acre, whereas at St Saviour's and the Valle they are from twenty to twenty two tons per acre; nevertheless they are of a good quality, and hogs not only look healthy, but yield a preferable pork. In fattening of pigs, parsnips have ever been found most profitable, as it is a root yielding a much greater portion of saccharine, mucilaginous and nutritious matter than either the potatoe, beet, turnip, or perhaps any other plant, and its general use throughout the island fully demonstrates the same. The butter is rather pale, but the quality is exceedingly good.

In the neighbourhood, the naturalist will find much to amuse him, such as the appearance of the yellow-hammer on the hedges, farms, corn-ricks, and elsewhere. After the same order he may place the cross-bill, ring-ouzel, missel-thrush, starling, mountain finch, hooded crow, and a few others. The great variety of rocks, cliffs, and creeks, also afford an excellent field for observation; and the insects and birds that give a decided preference to the altitude of this parish, in contrast with that of the Valle, furnish space for extensive research. The botanist will notice quantities of potentilla tormentilla, which is said to impart a fine flavour to the mutton of sheep feeding on it; and this is by no means improbable, as English agriculturists always regard it as a lucky event when their sheepwalks are well bestrewed with this invaluable plant; insomuch that it is not only found to heighten the quality of the mutton, but to cure the sheep of that dreadful disease the dry-rot. Some parts are so exposed to the sea and rough winds, that many of the orchards suffer severely from blight and the green canker, and the trees generally are so checked in their growth from moss gathering, that little if any fruit at certain seasons arrive to perfection. To provide against this, some few have got into the practice of scraping them, and it has been observed they use a certain instrument with considerable advantage, of which the present engraving will convey a tolerable idea.

St Peter's church has a much more ancient appearance than any other in the island, and the remains of antiquity, such as the chisel work about the windows, and other ornamental parts are almost perfect. The tracery of a rose window over the door of the North aisle, is gone, and perhaps it is difficult to decide what it meant. The church-yard is neat, and the tombstones in a much better condition than are usually met with.

Following the road, on the left hand side, is the menhir, which is a large columnar stone, in an erect attitude, and standing in a field appertaining to the estate of the Paysans. It can scarce be omitted, as it is said to attract the attention of every passer-by from its imposing station; and although the natives in the neighbourhood are entirely ignorant of its original intent and use, nevertheless hold it in a kind of veneration. It stands about eleven feet from the surface of the ground, where no doubt it has stood in the same position for some thousands of years. By some, it is supposed to be an idolatrous pillar: whereas others are of opinion it is a monumental chronogram, in commemoration of some great chieftain or notable event. Be it as it may, it certainly puts one in mind of another of these rude monuments of antiquity, stationed at the foot of the hill near the remains of the chapel of St Brioc, where is pointed out a stone bearing an impression of two enormous feet.