From Mohatz, we travelled on to Tulna, and from thence to Felduar. There I passed over the Danube, into an Island, pretty large, called Cophis, inhabited by Rascians; and so repassing the Danube, I arrived at Buda twelve Days after I left Belgrade, August the 4th, having lost many of my Horses by the way, who were choaked with eating new Barley, and drinking over-cold Water. Besides, I narrowly escaped Robbers, which these Countries are much infested with, especially by those they call Heydukes, some of which were afterwards taken, and put to death at Buda, where they confessed to the Bashaw thereof, that they lay in wait for me and my Train, under a broken Bridge we were to pass, that so they might assault us unawares. The Truth is, a few may very easily circumvent and destroy a great many Passengers on such Bridges; for the Bridges are ill-built, and the Planks are set so wide, and gaping one from another, that you can scarce go over them safe on Horseback, without danger of falling, if you are never so careful; and if some meet you before, others will fall on your Rear, and others start out from the Reeds and Sedges below, where they hide themselves, and so accost you in the Flank, and you can hardly manage your Horse for Self-defence, by reason of the badness of the Bridge: No doubt you may be treated as the Romans were in the Caudine Streights; be either taken, or killed, at Pleasure. I know not what it was that deterred them from assaulting us; whether it were our Numbers, or the Sight of the Hungarians with us; or because we were in a long Train, and all were not on the Bridge at once; or whatever else it was that withheld them, by God’s Blessing, we got safe to Buda. The Bashaw of the Town was not then at home; he was gone to Pest, on the other side of the River, where they had a Council of War, after the manner of the Hungarians, they call them Rachi. Many Sanziacks were already come thither, but more were expected; for which Cause, when I desired Audience, ’twas put off for three Days, that the Janizaries and military Persons might make a greater Show. Then I was sent for over, and conveyed to his Tent, where he made Complaints to me of the Injuries that some Hungarians had done him. It is usual, in those frontier Garrisons, both for Hungarians and Turks, mutually to complain of one another; yea, sometimes they, that are most in Fault, begin to complain first. The Turkish Bashaw also added some threatning Expressions of Revenge. It may be, he thought that the Sight of his Army would terrify me; but he was mistaken. I answered him roundly, that the Hungarians might rather find Fault with the Turks, than on the contrary; for I my self, in my Travels, had seen some of his Soldiers plunder some Hungarians, Subjects of his Imperial Majesty, and carry away their Goods. He answered me, he had indeed put some contumacious Christians under military Execution; but they were such as were under his Master, not the Emperor. Thus, after a mutual Altercation, I was dismissed, being in very bad plight, for my Ague-Fit was strong upon me all that Day.
The Day after, I went to Gran, having a Turkish Guard of Horse along with me. I had a mind to be wafted over the Danube, and for one Night to lodge in a Village over against the Castle of Gran, that the Day after I might come the sooner to Commara, and be better able to endure my Ague-Fit, which I expected that Day; and therefore I entreated that Favour of my Guide, that he would send some body over, to bring the Ferry-Boat, that was on the other Side, that so our Passage might be the easier. I found some Difficulty in having my Request granted; yet, partly to gratify me, and partly to acquaint the Sanziacks with my Arrival there, he sent over two Persons. When they were gone an Hour before, they spied four Horsemen standing under a Tree, a little from the High-way-side. They judged them, by their Habits, to be Turks, and therefore turned aside to accost them; and, as they drew near, they ask’d them, What News? They answered not a Word; but made at them with their drawn Swords, and gave one of them such a Blow, athwart his Face, that he made the greatest Part of his Nose to hang down over his Chin; and then catching at his Horse, which he held by the Bridle, he left his own Beast, and mounting it, set Spurs, and away. The Turks presently came back to us, especially he with the maim’d Face, and, with a woful Lamentation, bid us prepare for the Combat, for we were Way-laid. I, to encourage my Men, got presently on Horse-back; but we came too late, when the Scuffle was over; for they had more mind to preserve the Prey they had got, than to fight; and thereupon fled speedily to Javarin, a Garrison of ours, to which they did belong: The Turks shewed them to us, as they were scouring over the neighbouring Hills that led to Javarin. Thus we came to Gran; the Sanziack very friendly gave me a Visit, and, among other Discourse, he put me in mind of the Insolency of the Hungarian Soldiers, who could not be kept from Thieving (said he) though you, the Emperor’s Ambassador, were in company of those they robbed; and therefore he desired of me, that the Horse they took away yesterday might be restored. In the mean Time, the Turk, that was wounded the Day before, stood without in the Entry, with his Nose sewed together, through which he made a lamentable Moan, desiring me to pity his Condition. I told him, I would give him what was enough for his Cure, and so I bestowed two Duckets upon him. He would have had more; but the Sanziack told him, ’twas enough; his Misfortune was not to be charged upon me.
Being thus dismissed by the Sanziack, I came the same Day to Commara, where I expected my Ague-Fit; but when the usual Period of it drew near, I found it had left me, as if a Fever, got in Turkey, durst not accompany me into the Christian Territories. Hereupon I gave God thanks, who had both freed me of my Ague, and had also brought me safe to the end of my long and tedious Journey.
Two Days after, I came to Vienna, where the Emperor Ferdinand, my most gracious Master, was not at present, only I found Maximilian, King of Bohemia, there in his Room; whole courteous Reception of me made me almost forget the Toil of my Journey. But I must tell you, I was so emaciated with my Sickness, and the Inconveniences of my Journey together, that many thought the Turks had given me a poisonous Dose; for, truly, when I went lately to pay my Duty to the Arch-Duke Ferdinand, he asked one of his Domesticks, who I was? who answered, I was one that came lately from Turkey, and that it was no wonder I looked so ill, for they, who returned from those Parts, usually did so.
Perhaps he was willing to have it believed, that I had taken the Emperor Claudius’s Dose; but, for my part, I know of no such thing; neither do I question, but after resting a while, to recover the tediousness of my Journey, I shall look as well as ever I did: I find my self something mended already.
In the mean time, I acquainted the Emperor with my Return, by Letter, and of the half Year’s Truce I had obtained; and the sum of my whole Negotiation; and that, when he came home from the Diet, I would inform him of all Particulars more punctually and distinctly.
One thing more I shall acquaint you with. There were many Persons who refused to accompany me to Constantinople, either for Fear, or I know not what other Motive, who wished they had given me any Money to go along with me, now they saw me return in safety. But what says he in Plautus? If you will eat the Kernel, you must take the Pains to break the Nut: He does himself Wrong, that thinks to reap part of the Fruit, who took no part of the Pains.
Thus, Sir, I have given you an account of my Journey, both to Constantinople, and also to Amasia. I have not dress’d up my Narrative with Flowers of Rhetoric, but have presented you with it, just as I would have related it to you by Word of Mouth. I know you will bear with the Coarseness of my Style, it being occasioned by my over-eager Desire to gratify you; nor can you well expect Elegancy from me now in my Heat and Throng of Business, which I was never Master of in my greatest Retirements. This I assure you, both for your Information and my own Content, that I am not conscious to myself of any Falshood in the whole Narration, which is the principal Ornament of such Relations as these. Thus I bid you Farewell.
Vienna, September 1st.
