On the east side, facing the open Mediterranean, the ascent of the hill is almost perpendicular, while on the other side it is much more gradual. A number of non-commissioned officers were sent with the strangers as guides, and they explained everything of interest that was passed. After a rather hard walk, they reached the highest point of the Rock, which is called El Hacho, or the Signal. From it a view of two oceans was obtained, if we count the Mediterranean as one, and two of the grand divisions of the earth, Europe and Africa. The mountains of Spain and those of Africa were in sight.
Macias pointed out Apes Hill and other objects of interest, and it was unanimously voted that the view was magnificent. The visitors continued their wanderings amid pyramids of cannon-balls, and the region was covered with receptacles for ammunition. They entered the galleries, which extend for thousands of yards, and the first sight of them conveys an idea of the vast amount of labor which has been performed in constructing them, for they have been hewn out of the rock.
There are casemates and even halls, one of the latter of which is fifty feet long by thirty-five wide, and is called St. George's Hall. About every thirty feet in the eastern side are embrasures through which project the muzzles of great cannons, which are hardly noticed from the outside as one sails along the sea. A view of the Rock at the distance of a couple of miles on the strait conveys no idea of the strength of the fortifications.
In addition to the immense strength of the principal fortress, there are forts and batteries in every available place along the shore, and on the line which separates the place from The Neutral Ground, so that an attack by sea or land could be promptly repelled. Everything has been done to render the works invincible, and the supplies kept in store preclude the possibility of starving out the garrison in any reasonable period of time. But the fortress will never again be besieged or attacked, for many believe "the game is not worth the candle;" and Mr. Bright thought it ought to be ceded back to Spain, for its possession by a foreign power has never ceased to be a thorn in the flesh of the proud and haughty dons of the peninsula.
Aside from its military importance, Gibraltar is of the greatest value to England as a stopping-place, where coal and other necessaries can be obtained by her commercial marine. All the steamers which pass through the Suez Canal on their way to India and Australia stop here. If England were at war with any other nation, the place would be of vast importance as a coaling station, where her ships could lie in safety in spite of any force that might assail them.
"There are no springs of fresh water on the Rock," said Captain Ringgold to his party. "You remember how the people of the Bermudas are supplied with water; and the residents here, both civil and military, have to depend upon the rainfall. All the water that falls upon the roofs of the houses is economized and gathered up into reservoirs; and that which flows down the sides of the rock is also carefully saved, for a water famine would be as bad as a dearth of food. The navy tank, from which ships are supplied, holds eleven thousand tons of water, as the books put it; but to the common mind that is a very indefinite method of measuring water, and how big that tank is I can form no idea, only that it is a big one.
"I suppose you have noticed that plants grow in the apertures and crevices of the Rock, though nothing of the sort can be seen from the water. Asparagus, capers, aloes, and cacti thrive here, and even grassy and wooded glens are found in places. Now we will go down to the Almeda, which is the Spanish name for a park, as you learned when you were in Cuba."
This beautiful garden is located near Europa Point, the southern extremity of the peninsula of Gibraltar. It is on the very border of the sea, and is very tastefully laid out in English style, with winding walks, and with a great variety of plants and shrubs which thrive in this climate, including cacti and some trees of considerable size. From shady arbors fine views were obtained of the surroundings, including the mountains in Africa.
The party had made the ascent of the rock and the return on mules and donkeys, and the big four had lots of fun with the latter. That of Scott was so small that he picked him up in his arms and carried him some distance, to the great amusement of the lookers-on. When they reached the Ragged Stairs, the company embarked in the little steamer, and, as it was not yet four o'clock, they made an excursion in her around the Rock. The American consul had been invited to dine on board, and he was a member of the party.
As soon as her passengers had disembarked, Louis and Scott were sent over in the Salihé to Algeciras for Judge Salazar, and returned with him before dinner-time. He was received on board with the "most distinguished consideration."