“Funchal is the principal town, and has about twenty thousand inhabitants. Its principal business is in wine and fruit. In later years the vine has failed to a great extent, and the commerce of the island has been greatly reduced. Many of the inhabitants are in a state of destitution; and beggars are more common here than in most of the countries of Europe.
“These islands, as well as the Western, or Azores, are dependencies of the kingdom of Portugal. They are represented in the legislature of that country, and have, besides, a local government of their own. The currency of the islands is the same as that of Portugal; and you will find here most of the manners and customs of that country. Possibly some of you will think you have been here before. The city, like Messina in Sicily, which you will remember, is built on a small plain, watered by three little streams that rise in the interior of the island, or on the surrounding hills. Indeed, the island is very like Sicily.
“One of the great natural curiosities of Madeira is the Coural, or Curral, as different writers call it. It is an immense chasm, with perpendicular sides, thirteen hundred feet deep. It is near the middle of the island; and, if the time permits, I believe you will take a walk to it; for there are no carriages in the country, or any roads that are practicable for them. People who can not or will not walk have to be transported by manpower. In some parts they slide down the steep hills on sleds, as boys coast on the snow at home. The roads most travelled are paved with cobble-stones, or the heavy rains would wash them entirely away; and they are thus made the smoother for the sleds. A kind of sled, called a ‘buey cart,’ drawn by oxen, is also used to some extent. A hammock swung on a long pole, the ends of which are borne on the shoulders of two men, would seem to be the most natural conveyance for a sailor.
“You will have an opportunity to see the country and the city for yourselves, and I will not describe them to you. The people are very gentlemanly and polite, though I believe they are no more given to hard work than the natives of the mother country. The island is a great resort for invalids, especially those with pulmonary complaints; and the same is true of the Azores. The average temperature is sixty-four degrees. A hot south-west wind, which comes over from the great desert of Africa, sometimes carries the mercury up to eighty degrees, though the heat in summer rarely exceeds seventy. But the quality of the climate depends upon the uniformity of its temperature. There are no sudden changes; and one month will not differ from the one before more than two or three degrees. But Dr. Winstock, who spent a winter in the island, informs me that he has seen some very disagreeable weather here.”
Professor Mapps finished his brief lecture, leaving much to be learned by the students in their walks about the city and the island. The boats of the Tritonia and Josephine returned; and what was left of the day was used by the officers and seamen in looking at the strange sights that might be seen from the decks of the vessels.
As the squadron was to remain some days at Funchal, study and recitations were not entirely suspended; but, as both watches could be engaged at the same time, the full routine was completed at one o’clock, and the rest of the day was improved on shore. Dr. Winstock took under his care for the excursion, Sheridan and Murray of the Prince, and Wainwright and Scott of the Tritonia.
“This is a rough harbor for a commercial town,” said Capt. Sheridan, as he landed from the boat, and looked back to survey the beach, on which the sea was breaking with considerable force.
“It is a very poor harbor,” replied the doctor. “Sometimes the sea is so high in the roadstead, that it is not safe for vessels to lie at anchor; and a government boat goes to them, and advises them to get to sea.”
“What sort of a boat do you call that?” asked Scott, as he pointed to a very handsome barge near the shore. “The sailors have coalhods, with marline spikes sticking out of the tops.”
“That is a government boat, as you may see by the uniform of the officers in it. The cap of the boatmen looks something like an inverted tunnel. But they have a nice time of it under that awning.”