Northern Lands; Or, Young America in Russia and Prussia

by Oliver Optic

Lincoln, Scott, and Billy Bobstay were assigned to one room. It was in no respect different from a chamber in an English hotel, except that a large stove or furnace was set in the wall, the fire-door opening into the hall. Every room was provided with this heating apparatus. Having arranged their toilets, the party gathered again in the coffee-room for breakfast. The meal was in English style, consisting of cold tongue, cold chicken, and capital coffee. When it was finished, Dr. Winstock gave a brief description and historical account of Moscow.

"Moscow was until 1720 the capital of the Russian empire," said he. "This part of it was called Muscovy, and came to include Novgorod and Tver, the two provinces, or governments, through which we passed in coming from St. Petersburg. What is called Great Russia comprises sixteen governments, among which are nearly all the ancient grand dukedoms. It was founded in the middle of the twelfth century, and was taken and plundered by Tamerlane in the fourteenth century; nearly consumed by fire in 1536, and again in 1572, when it was fired by the Tartars, and one hundred thousand people perished in the flames and by the sword; the Poles fired it in 1611, and in 1812 it was burned by the Russians to prevent the French from wintering in it. Moscow is the Holy City of the Russians. It is a place of great commercial importance, having a vast trade, extending into Asia, and it is also a large manufacturing place. The emperors are crowned here, and on account of its holy character and sacred associations, no Czar would dare to neglect at least a semiannual visit; and custom requires that he should present his oldest son and heir in this city soon after he becomes of age.

"Moscow is one of the most irregularly built cities in the world. The Kremlin is in the centre. Half a mile from it there is a series of streets nearly encircling it, on the site of which was formerly the moat of the castle. A mile and a half distant there is another series of avenues, which form a complete circle. Within this line the map of the city looks very much like a well-constructed cobweb; but the town extends far beyond this line, and has a circumference of twenty miles. The Moscow river, a branch of the Oka, runs through the city, with a great bend extending up to the Kremlin."

"What is the Kremlin, sir?" asked a student.

"It was originally the citadel or fortress of the city. It was first enclosed with oak walls, and afterwards with stone. It is in the form of a triangle, with a perimeter of about a mile, and contains the palace, the holiest churches, and many other public buildings. Moscow has between three and four hundred churches, the number being variously estimated, for some writers include several in one establishment, while others count all as one. A monastery may have two or three churches within its walls. Now we will walk to the Kremlin, and ascend the Tower of Ivan Veliki, or John the Great, from which you will obtain a fine view of the whole city."

In Moscow it is difficult, if not impossible, to obtain a guide who speaks English; but a German was procured, and the students left the hotel under his direction. The walk through the streets was full of interest, and there was no lack of variety. There is not a straight avenue in the city, and there seems to be no fixed line upon which the houses are erected. Now the street is narrow, and then it suddenly doubles its width for a short distance, and some of them are nearly in the shape of a wedge. They twist about even worse than in Boston, where the tradition is that the early fathers followed the cow-paths when they laid out the streets. They are paved with irregular stones, and there seem to be no particular localities in which the wealthier class erect their elegant residences, for next to a lofty and beautiful mansion may be the humble low house of the poor man. The buildings are painted or colored in nearly all the hues of the rainbow.

One cannot walk far without coming to a church, either small or large, and at least a dozen domes are always in sight—gold, green, and blue. The signs in the streets, too, are peculiar, and more intelligible than in most Russian cities, for pictorial effects seem to be the fashion, and the butcher, baker, grocer, and other merchants cover all the available space in front of their shops with representations of their various wares.

In many of the open spaces there are drosky stands and several new varieties of carriages were presented to the students. Most of the droskies have hoods, or covers, like a chaise, and are wider than those of St. Petersburg. One kind of vehicle consists of a board, covered and stuffed, extending from the forward to the hind axletree. The drivers are dressed as in other Russian cities, and carry their white gloves, while waiting for a job, in their belt. These men are very polite, and take off their hats when they solicit employment.

"There is the Kremlin," said the doctor, as he pointed to the high walls, upon which, at intervals are several elaborate towers. "You will enter by the 'Sacred Gate,' or 'Porta Triumphalis.' Be sure and take off your caps, and do not put them on till you have passed entirely through the archway."

This opening was under a Gothic tower, and is sometimes called the "Redeemer's Gate," from the picture of the Redeemer, of Smolensk, which is placed above it. It is held in the highest reverence by the Russians, who believe that the Tartars were driven back by it, and that miraculous clouds concealed the defenders of the fortress, who sought its protection from the eyes of the enemy. It is in a glass case, and a huge lamp, raised and lowered by a large chain over a pulley, is always burning before it. It is said that the French, supposing the frame to be of gold, wished to plunder it, but every ladder planted beneath instantly broke in twain. The invaders then loaded a cannon to batter down the wall, but the powder would not burn till they made a great fire of coals over the vent, and then it went off the wrong way, blowing out the breech of the gun, and killing some of the artillerists. The Frenchmen then acknowledged the miraculous character of the picture, and retired, leaving it unharmed. It was borne in the battle-field by the armies of Pojarski, and the Poles fled before it. On account of the signal service it has thus rendered, every one must bare his head as he passes through the gate, be he Czar or peasant, Greek or Christian. At the entrance stood a soldier with a drawn sabre in his hand, who enforced this behest of custom. Umbrellas must be closed, and care is taken to prevent dogs from entering the enclosure by this gate. The students uncovered, and passed through. The Russians bowed, knelt, and crossed themselves repeatedly, as they did so.