The party next walked to the Manège, or Great Riding School, which is believed to be the largest apartment in the world with the roof unsupported by columns. It is five hundred and sixty feet long, one hundred and fifty-eight feet wide, and forty-two feet high. Two regiments of cavalry can go through their evolutions at the same time in this vast space. It is heated by twenty immense stoves, so that it can be used in the coldest weather. At this point carriages were taken for a ride to Sparrow Hills. On the way, not far from the Kremlin, the tourists stopped at the new Temple of the Saviour, in process of erection. It is the noblest church in Russia, and was built to commemorate the expulsion of the French. It was to have been erected at Sparrow Hills, from which Napoleon had his first view of the city, and doubtless his last; but a good foundation could not be obtained, and it was commenced on the present site, more than fifty years ago. Like other Russian churches, it is in the form of a Greek cross. Though sculpture is not often seen on Greek churches, this one is ornamented on the outside with scenes from Scripture and the national history in high relief, the figures being of colossal size. As these "human and divine forms" are not for purposes of worship, they do not seem to be inconsistent even with the Russian belief. The stone is of a light color, and the structure is crowned with a magnificent golden dome, which surpasses everything else in beauty in the country. The interior was filled with stagings, though a glimpse of the rich and beautiful paintings on the inside of the dome could be obtained. The walls are covered with variegated marble. The building has already cost ten million rubles, and it is said that the entire cost will be fifteen millions.
Crossing the Moskva River, the carriages proceeded by a very broad, straight avenue, through a gate, into the suburbs. The ascent of the hill is by a soft, oozy road, so trying for the horses that most of the students preferred to walk. The summit was gained. On it is a villa of the empress, and an estate of Prince Galitzin; but the party went to a cottage, where tea, coffee, and other refreshments are furnished. In the rear of it is a spacious veranda, with tables, where the students seated themselves, and from which a splendid view of Moscow is obtained. Beneath them flowed the Moskva, which could be seen for miles, winding through the level plain. The party drank coffee, enjoyed the view for an hour, and then returned to the city, visiting one of the monasteries on the way. Near the Kremlin they encountered a funeral on a grand scale, and the drivers of the carriages stopped at once. The aspect of the street was suddenly changed, for all business was suspended, all heads uncovered, and every passer-by halted. The procession was headed by a body of priests, clothed in black robes, and bearing lighted tapers and various religious emblems in their hands. The hearse was drawn by four horses, caparisoned in black, which covered their legs, with plumes on their heads. The vehicle was an open platform on wheels, upon which lay the coffin, covered with a pall. It had steps at the sides, on which stood priests, holding images over the body, while others followed it. The bells were tolling, and a strange chant rose from the procession. The spectators uttered prayers for the repose of the dead, which they always do on meeting a funeral, though the deceased be an entire stranger to them. The students took off their caps, and this custom, not entirely unknown in our own country, is worthy of respect.
"In Russia, it is believed that a person cannot die easily, if at all, when there is a pigeon feather in his pillow," said Dr. Winstock, as the carriages continued on their way. "When the sufferer seems to die hard, they think there must be a pigeon feather in the pillow under his head, and they often change it, so as to be sure on this point."
"What harm does the pigeon feather do?" asked Lincoln, curiously.
"The dove, or pigeon, is the emblem of the Holy Ghost, and the bird is never eaten by the most rigid believers; and on no account would they use its feathers to make a pillow, for the bird is held in the highest respect."
The party arrived at the hotel, where an early dinner was ready for them, after which the Volga partook droskies for the Nijni Novgorod Railroad. The first division, visited the Troitsad Monastery, forty miles distant, the next day. It was founded by St. Sergius, in the fourteenth century. He was the most holy of all the monks, and the monastery is the most sacred shrine. Russian tradition says that he was visited in his cell by the Virgin, attended by the apostles Peter and John. It is a fortress, in fact, and has withstood many sieges. Neither plague nor cholera has ever entered its walls. It includes ten churches, is endowed with immense riches, and at one time held over a hundred thousand serfs. The monks in Russia are called the Black Clergy, to distinguish them from the White Clergy, who are the priests that officiate in the churches. When the wife of one of the latter dies, he must either secularize himself or enter a monastery. The highest officers in the church and the members of the Holy Synod, however, are taken from the monks.
The division returned to Moscow in the afternoon and on the following day took the train for St. Petersburg. The second division arrived on the forenoon of the same day, and proceeded to see the sights already described.