The navigation of the river is very difficult in some places, and it requires not a little skill and experience to keep the boat in the channel. In shoal places, dikes have been built to turn the course of the current, or to keep it within certain limits. Large sums of money have been spent by the government in dredging and otherwise improving the navigation. In August the river is generally low, and there is an extensive prospect of sand-bars between the banks of the stream. The Volga flows through a flat country, but there is a ridge on the right bank, which, in places, causes the formation of a considerable bluff.
The regulations for steamers passing each other appear to be excellent, and collisions to be impossible. The boat going down stream has the right of way. She whistles, and the officer of the deck waves a flag in the daytime, a lantern at night, on the side which the other boat is to pass him. The steamer going up stream whistles in reply, and a flag is waved in the direction the down boat is to take. If they are to pass on the starboard hand, both officers go to the starboard side, on the paddle-boxes, raise the flag, and drop it over on this side, repeating the movement several times; if on the port side, the signals are made accordingly.
There is nothing like variety of scenery on the river, and in a short time the view becomes very monotonous. There are occasional villages to be seen on the shore, but they are composed only of log-houses. The larger towns have one or more fine churches. Late in the afternoon the Stafet made a landing at one of these places, and the greater part of the deck passengers left the boat. On the bluff was a church with a green dome, and the Russian cross at the summit. As soon as they landed, all the peasants turned their faces towards the church, crossed themselves, and bowed reverently. A few dropped upon their knees, and bent to the ground. In this manner they thank God for bringing them in safety to their journey's end. No one seems to notice them, or to regard their conduct as at all singular.
The boat stopped long enough at this place to "wood up," the work of which was done by women, while scores of stout men stood by, looking on. These women were of all ages; but none of them were handsome enough to excite the sympathy of cold-blooded foreigners. They wore calico dresses, with the belt or waist directly under the arms. The wood was carried on two poles, forming a hand-barrow, and the women bore loads which would have strained the backs of ordinary men.
"That's mean," said Scott. "I don't see how those men can stand by, and not lend a helping hand."
"You are in Russia," replied Lincoln.
"Don't men have souls in Russia?"
"Yes; and customs too. This seems to be one of them," laughed the commodore.
"See that little one. She is not more than sixteen. She isn't bad looking, either; at least, not so bad looking as the rest of them."
"If you feel bad about it, Scott, you can take a hand in the job yourself."