PAGE
[Memoir of Owen Glynne Jones]vii
CHAP.
I.[Pike’s Crag]1
II.[Deep Ghyll, Great Chimney and Professor’sChimney]12
III.[The Rake’s Progress and Certain Short Climbs
near It]
29
IV.[Moss Ghyll, Collier’s Climb, and Keswick
Brothers’ Climb]
43
V.[Scawfell Pinnacle]69
VI.[Great End and its Gullies]89
VII.[Great Gable, the Ennerdale Face, and the
Oblique Chimney]
114
VIII.[The Ennerdale Central Gully and Two Little
Chimneys]
134
IX.[The Great Napes and its Gullies]146
X.[The Ridges of the Great Napes]153
XI.[The Gable Needle]168
XII.[Kern Knotts]175
XIII.[The Wastwater Screes]190
XIV.[Pavey Ark]208
XV.[Doe Crag, Coniston]219
XVI.[Combe Ghyll]237
XVII.[The Pillar Rock]254
XVIII.[Notes on Remaining Climbs]285
[APPENDIX I.]295
[APPENDIX II.—]
CHAP.
I.[The Pillar Rock and its Purlieus up to Date]317
II.[New Climbs on Great Gable, Scawfell, andaround Wastdale Head]332
III.[The Buttermere Climbs, and those in OutlyingDistricts]344
IV.[Recent Climbs around Langdale, and DoeCrag]358

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

[Portrait of Owen Glynne Jones]Frontispiece
[The Pike’s Crag Gullies]To face page6
[Deep Ghyll, First Pitch]12
[Scawfell Pinnacle and the Professor’s Chimney]20
[Scawfell Crags from the Pulpit Rock]26
[The Ascent of the Broad Stand]30
[The Penrith Climb From Mickledore]40
[Collier’s Chimney, Moss Ghyll]51
[Keswick Brothers’ Climb]66
[Attitudes on Scawfell Pinnacle]69
[Scawfell Pinnacle and Deep Ghyll]73
[The Last Hundred Feet on the Scawfell Pinnacle]76
[Ascent of Scawfell Pinnacle from Deep Ghyll]83
[The Great End Gullies, Seen From Sprinkling Tarn]90
[Top of the Central Gully in Winter, Great End]99
[Wastdale and Great Gable]114
[Ennerdale Face of Great Gable]127
[Great Gable From Lingmell]146
[The Ridges of the Great Napes]153
[The Upper Part of the Needle Ridge]156
[The Gable Needle]168
[Kern Knotts Chimney]178
[Kern Knotts Crack]184
[The Screes and Wastwater]191
[The Pavey Ark Gullies From Stickle Tarn]208
[Doe Crag and Goatswater]220
[First Pitch in Doe Crag, Great Gully]225
[The East Face of the Pillar Rock (viewed from the Shamrock)]257
[Round the Notch, Pillar Rock, East Side]267
[The North Face of the Pillar Rock]271
[Over the Nose—the Pillar Rock]325
[The Broadrick’s and Hopkinson’s Cracks, Doe Crag]376

OUTLINE DRAWINGS OF THE CHIEF ROUTES

PLATE
I.[The Pike’s Crag Gullies
Diagrammatic]
To face page2
II.[Scawfell From the Pulpit Rock
From the photograph facing p. 26]
46
III.[The Great End Gullies
From the photograph facing p. 90]
94
IV.[The Ennerdale Face of Great Gable
From the photograph facing p. 127]
135
V.[The Great Napes Ridges
Diagrammatic]
161
VI.[i. The Wastwater Screes
From the photograph facing p. 191]
203
[ii. The Pavey Ark Gullies
From the photograph facing p. 208]
203
VII.[Doe Crag, Coniston
Diagrammatic]
370
VIII.[Pillar Rock, East Side
From the photograph facing p. 257]
242
IX.[Pillar Rock, North Side
From the photograph facing p. 271]
254
X.[Pillar Rock, West Side]318

INTRODUCTION

Some eight years ago chance led me to the Lake District for the first time, and a kindly acquaintance whom I then met at Wastdale taught me something of the joys of rock-climbing. Since that occasion every holiday has been spent on the mountains, either in Cumberland or North Wales or Switzerland, and they have taught me much that is worth knowing and that when once learnt can never be forgotten. Men with the highest literary qualifications have written of the charm of mountaineering, and every aspect of the subject has been touched upon with fullest justice and with a grace of style that has captivated many a non-climber in spite of his prejudices. Yet I cannot refrain from adding my own humble tribute of praise to the sport that has done so much for me and my best friends.

It satisfies many needs; the love of the beautiful in nature; the desire to exert oneself physically, which with strong men is a passionate craving that must find satisfaction somehow or other; the joy of conquest without any woe to the conquered; the prospect of continual increase in one’s skill, and the hope that this skill may partially neutralize the failing in strength that comes with advancing age or ill-health.