The West Jordan Crack and the Far West Jordan Climb were discovered in 1909 by Messrs. H. B. Gibson and W. B. Brunskill. A poised block, which stands a few feet west of the foot of the old West Jordan Climb, marks the base of operations. From this the ‘Crack’ route slants upwards to the left over the top of a steep slab to a diminutive ledge at the foot of a vertical corner, up which rises a narrow crack. The ascent of this 20 foot corner is the crux of the climb; above it the summit cairn is only a few feet away. The Far West Jordan Climb is somewhat the easier of the two problems. From above the poised block previously mentioned, the route diverges at once to the left, and, after crossing a grass-floored depression, it makes for a detached spike, about 5 feet high, close to the left sky-line. This affords good anchorage for the second climber whilst the leader tackles the ensuing somewhat exposed section from the top of the detached spike. This consists of a passage up a crack to the right of an overhanging block. Above this a fine arête is gained which leads to the summit.
The West Ridge of Pisgah.—The Pisgah problems have never been considered seriously by climbers, but this longer course up the whole length of the west side of the prominent little peak is worthy of passing mention. The route shows to advantage on the line drawing of the west side of the Pillar Rock. At the point of divergence, about 45 feet above the screes, the left-hand way is the easier of the two; it regains the direct route by way of a detached rock-pinnacle.
Walker’s Gully.—Since it almost seems customary nowadays to become benighted in this magnificent gorge, a few notes may be given as to altered conditions. Those who pay their first visit to this exceptionally severe course would be well advised to avoid the ‘watery’ first pitch on the left. If abnormally dry it may be overcome direct, but this probably involves more severe climbing than anything encountered in the higher main bed of the gully. The best course for those who wish to add this initial pitch to their laurels is to start up the buttress a few feet to the right of its foot. About 30 feet higher a grass ledge is reached, where a short traverse can be made to the left, and then the way lies up a narrow sloping scoop for nearly 25 feet. At the top of this the holds are rather deficient, but it is soon possible to step across on to the upper part of the big chimney and thence struggle up directly over the capstone.
The great cave below the mass of tumbled boulders in the upper part of the gully has recently given serious pause to at least two parties of experts. The hole at the back of the cave is blocked by fallen rocks, and considerable difficulty has been encountered in making the upward way on the exposed outside edge of the jammed boulders. It may be mentioned that the blocking of this hole is probably only temporary; it has occurred before, and been removed by wary experts. During the first ascent the hole required considerable enlargement.
The fact that the final obstacle can be overcome by first climbing up the right wall until the left wall can be reached to assume a backing-up attitude would seem to be unknown to many parties. Even a moderately short man can utilise this method. Failure to realize this has resulted in more than one party spending a night in the damp recesses of the gully. Yet they would probably find the magnificent scenery ample reward for the discomfort involved. The great black walls of the gorge loom gloomily on either hand. To watch the moon’s rays casting a pervasive gleam athwart the distant peaks is indescribably beautiful. But this is only ‘moonshine,’ especially to those who have watched and waited.
The Shamrock.—The climber who emerges safely from Walker’s Gully may be glad to know that there is a pleasant scramble thence to the lower peak of the Shamrock. This acts as a welcome muscular sedative after the previously severe exercise in the gully. Just to the left of the top of the great upper pitch a crack will be noticed slanting to the left up the wall of the Shamrock. This yields about 30 feet of ascent, and then, turning to the right, the climber mounts, first on clean rocks, and later over grass-crowned ledges, to the summit. After a short descent across the head of the Shamrock Gully, it is possible to mount the opposite wall and emerge quite close to the cairns which mark the downward path by the Shamrock Traverse.
The Shamrock Buttress, by the original route, affords a pleasant excursion in winter time, when the gully and greater climbs close at hand are scarcely approachable. The course starts up a small but well-defined gully a few yards to the right of the wide entrance to the Shamrock Gully. It continues straight up the Buttress, until a high slice of smooth rock suggests a slight descent and traverse to the right to the foot of an obvious chimney pitch with prominent chock-stones. Above this another short pitch gives the approach to the foot of a steep rib of rock which is crowned by a loosely wedged stone. The easy bed of the Shamrock Chimney is now entered and followed beyond the short, final pitch which, except under snowy conditions, possesses a ‘through route.’ To avoid this pitch an interesting variation can be made up the steep crack on the right-hand wall, from the summit of which there is a short traverse to the left to the foot of the usual arête finish of the Shamrock Chimneys Climb. Curiously enough this latter course is seldom visited nowadays, yet it is by far the finest expedition on the Shamrock.
In 1909 a party led by Mr. H. B. Gibson made a variation on the Shamrock Gully side of the buttress in its upper part. After ascending a 25 foot slab and some easier rocks, they entered the gully above the great pitch. From a pile of loose boulders, since swept away, they continued up the right wall of the gully, bearing at first to the right, and finished at the top of the original Shamrock Buttress course. An extensive fall of rock has taken place on this final stage of the climb; the place is now decidedly unsafe, and should be avoided. It might be noted that the falling masses and previous natural weathering have altered the structure of the great pitch of the Shamrock Gully. The left-hand route may now be considered the easier of the two ways of overcoming the obstacle.