As the Tourist may probably be desirous to know the names of the gentlemen’s seats, which appear so conspicuous on the Anglesey shore, from this side the water, and which seem to claim his attention, as he proceeds along, I shall here for his satisfaction describe them as they occur, beginning with the most Easterly, viz. Friers, the seat of Sir Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. for the County of Carnarvon; which is situated a mile beyond Beaumaris, near the Sea coast, not far from the site of a Religious House of the Franciscan order,—next is Baron Hill, the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, embosomed in woods, and commanding a most extensive and enchanting view, having the Town, Castle, and Bay of Beaumaris in front,—near it is Red Hill, the residence of Colonel Sparrow,—next in order is Lady Bulkeley’s neat Cottage, on the Beaumaris new road, and just below it Craig y Donn, the delightful Summer habitation of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow, who is fond of sailing, and has an elegant Cutter at anchor near his house,—next is Cadnant, the seat of J. Price, Esq. in a small recess on the side of a narrow dingle;—these are the principal seats to the East of the great Irish road. But, before we proceed any further, the stranger cannot avoid noticing the singular situation of a small Church, on a barren rock, forming a little Peninsula, about a quarter of a mile to the West of Bangor-Ferry, called Llandissilio. [55] We then proceed to another small Church, called Llanfair (or St. Mary’s) Pwll Gwyn Gell,—and near it, the Vicarage House; and just below that Llanfair Hall, the seat of Colonel Peacock. And here I must not omit noticing a very elegant Column, situated on a high rock, behind Llanfair Church, erected by subscription of £1 each person, (and which was soon filled, so eager were the gentlemen of the neighbourhood to contribute), and intended to commemorate the brave, skilful, and intrepid conduct of that gallant Nobleman, the Marquess of Anglesey, at the Battle of Waterloo. Not far from hence is that rocky or obstructed part of the Straits or Channel of the Menai, called by the Welsh Pwll Ceris, [56] and by the English the Swelly; the fury of the tide, during ebb and flow, is almost inconceivable, except by the navigator: here are great over-falls and violent whirl-pools, but at high water all is still. This is a great obstacle to the navigation of large vessels, which must consult the critical season, and provide a good Pilot; and as the Merchants of Carnarvon, and others, were very apprehensive that the erection of a Bridge at Bangor Ferry, would materially injure the Trade, Government has proposed to defray the expence of blasting the Rocks, and to render every other practicable facility to the improvement of the navigation in this part of the Channel.
After this short digression, we now proceed to Plas Newydd, the magnificent Seat of the Marquess of Anglesey, situated on a beautiful curve of the Menai, and protected on three sides by venerable Oak Trees, which reminds us of the Groves, in which the Druids are represented by Tacitus to have concealed themselves from the Roman Army, and also recalls to our remembrance the ancient name of Anglesey, Ynys Dywyll, the Dark Island, on account of the deep shade of its groves:
— These woods
Were tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence,
Rob’d in their flowing vests of innocent white,
Issu’d with Harps, that glitter to the moon,
Hymning immortal strains.Mason’s Caractacus.
It lies within 80 or 100 yards of the Menai, with a fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water; it commands a fine view both towards Carnarvon and Bangor, which is rendered doubly interesting when the tide is in, and the river covered with Ships of various sizes, together with his Lordship’s Cutter, and those of T. A. Smith, Esq. of Vaynol, and Owen Williams, Esq. of Craig y Don, sailing up and down, and contending with each other, thus rendering the scene more animating. On the contrary, in boisterous weather, here you behold from your fire side, (if you please,) the mariner exerting his strength to guide his ship, and contending with the storm; sweet retreat! delightful abode!
Suave mari magno, turbantibus æquora ventis,
E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.“Pleasing from danger free, to hear on shore,
The tempests whistle and the billows roar.”
Behind the House are to be seen two vast Cromlechs, the upper stone of one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick, supported by five tell ones; the other is but barely separated from the first, is almost a square of five feet and a half, and supported by four stones. The number of supporters to Cromlechs are supposed to be merely accidental, and to depend on the size and form of the incumbent stone. Dr. Borlase, in his History of Cornwall, has shewn the improbability of these stones ever being designed or used as Altars; the figure proves the impossibility of making fires, or performing sacrifices on their sloping summits, and almost all which I have seen (observes Mr. Pennant) have an inclination. It is reasonable to suppose them to have been sepulchral monuments, (probably of their Arch Druids) and that the body might be lodged in the space beneath, and near the monument divine honours might be paid, or sacrifices performed to the manes of the dead.—This species of monument is to be found in most parts of Europe, in Scandinavia, in Holland and in France; in the last, the Pierre Levee, near Poitiers, is a stupendous specimen; they extend even farther South, for Mr. Armstrong gives a drawing of one of this nature in Minorca. They vary in form, in many the space between the supporters is closed up with stones of greater or lesser size, and thus formed a sufficient security to the remains of the deceased therein deposited. Probably all or most of those which we see in our Island, might originally have been thus closed up, and the stones since taken away, and applied to other uses; others are again quite bedded in the Carnedd, as is the case with that at Llanfaelog, in this Island. Not far from the Cromlech is a large Carnedd, part of which has been removed; within was discovered a Cell, about seven feet long and three wide, covered at the top with two flat stones, and lined on the sides with others. On the top of the stones were two semicircular holes, of size sufficient to take in the human neck; it is conjectured that above might have been another, so that both together might perform the office of a stocks.—It is indeed conjecture, yet not an improbable one, that in this place were confined, the wretches destined for sacrifice, as it is well known that they performed those execrable rites, and often upon captives who had suffered long imprisonment, perhaps in Cells similar to this, and the common Welsh proverb “Bwrw caeth i Gythraul,” to offer a captive to the Devil, seems to confirm this opinion. After the tourist has examined the interior of Plasnewydd, which he may easily do if he be so disposed, he is recommended to pay a visit to Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful Cottage, the Lodge, about a quarter of a mile to the East of this Princely mansion, where his curiosity will no doubt be amply gratified, as that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste and judgment in the embellishment and decoration of that singularly elegant and much admired residence. Half a mile to the West, and within the Park, are the Farm and Parish Church, Llan Edwen, and very near these, in the same direction, is Plas Coch, a venerable old Mansion, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and lately repaired and improved by the present Proprietor, Sir W. Bulkeley Hughes, Knight. Next is Porthamel, [60] late the seat of Mrs. Goodman, now of W. Massey, Esq.; beyond which are Llanidan Church and Hall, the latter the admired residence of the Hon. Mr. Ireby, eldest son of Lord Boston, and nearly opposite Carnarvon, Tref-Arthen, Mr. Bogue’s, and Maes y Porth, W. P. Lloyd, Esq.
We shall now return to Bangor, and conduct the stranger by Bangor Ferry, (which, although about a mile further is by far the most interesting road) to Carnarvon, and as he proceeds he will find the views constantly changing, and he will frequently be at a loss which most to admire,—the Sea, the Mountains, or the landscape, up and down the Menai. Gorphwysfa, [61a] a modern handsome Villa, between the Inn and the intended new Bridge, built by Lord Lucan, and now the property and residence of O. A. Poole, Esq. is the first place likely to attract his attention; this charming spot is much admired—the grounds are laid out with great taste and judgment. But before we proceed, the reader is to be informed that £24,000. have been awarded by a jury, and allowed by Government, as an indemnification to the Proprietor for the loss of the profits of the Ferry, in consequence of the erection of the Bridge. On his right, after he has passed the ferry, and as he ascends the Hill, is Treborth, the seat of G. Barlow, Esq. and about a mile further, on the same side of the road, surrounded by fine woods, and thriving plantations, is Vaynol, [61b] the occasional residence, at particular times of the year, of T. A. Smith, Esq. during a month or two in summer, to enjoy the pleasure of sailing in his Cutter, and a few weeks in winter, for the amusement of sporting. His usual abode is at Tedworth, near Andover Hants. This gentleman is Proprietor of several excellent Slate Quarries, some of which are considered the most productive of any in this part of the Principality, next to those of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; but the proper time for visiting these will be during an excursion from Carnarvon to Llanberris. Vaenol was at one period the residence of a branch of the Penrhyn Family, who were descended from Ednyfed Fychan. They obtained a Baronetage June 15, 1622. Sir William Williams, the last of the line, disposed of his property to Sir Boucher Wrey, with the remainder to King William in fee, who made a grant of it to an ancestor of the present proprietor. A curious Seal was discovered near this place, about two or three years ago, supposed to be that of some Convent or Monastery, with the image of the Virgin and child, and bearing the following inscription: S. BEATÆ MARIÆ DE SI. . . . NE BEC . . .
The next place which deserves to be noticed, in our progress towards Carnarvon, is Bryn Tirion; the habitation of Thomas Jones, Esq.; this house, which is nearly opposite Plas Newydd, stands on a beautiful eminence, and commands an extensive view of the Straits, as far as Abermenai.—In this neighbourhood, as well as on the opposite shore, are considerable Lime-stone rocks; and indications of Iron Ore have also been observed here, and, we understand, in one instance, a late trial has been attended with success. It is the general opinion, when these two are found in considerable quantities, that Coal is not far distant, and some attempts have been made, at different times, to discover the vein, but hitherto without effecting that object. Near this place is Aber y pwll, a Harbour belonging to Mr. Smith, where his Slate are shipped off, and to which a good new road has, within these few years, been made from his Quarry. Half a mile farther is Moel y Don, a safe and commodious horse Ferry, where no accident has happened in the memory of any person now living. In the life of Gryffydd, ap Cynan, (one of our Welsh Princes) it is said that a Castle was built here, by Aeloedd, King of Dublin, his grandfather by the mother’s side, and there are still some remains of a fortification, on a small eminence, close upon the Menai, about three hundred yards below the Ferry. This place was also rendered memorable on account of a Bridge of Boats, erected here by King Edward the First, A.D. 1282, [63] in repassing which, a detachment of his Army, together with a number of Gascon and Spanish troops, commanded by Luke de Tany, were intercepted by the Welsh, who rush’d on them with hideous shouts, slew numbers, and forced the remainder into the sea. On this occasion perished the General himself, together with Roger Clifford the younger, thirteen Knights, seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred soldiers. William Latimer alone escaped by the goodness of his horse, which swam with him to the Bridge. Even if we suppose that a panic had seized the English forces at this time, yet a considerable degree of praise is still due to the intrepidity of my countrymen, as, when compared with the troops of other countries, they fought nearly unarmed; in order to be convinced of which, a person need only read a description of their weapons and accoutrements, when they accompanied our valiant Prince Richard Cœur de Lion into France, as given by William Brito, in Camden’s Remains.
When we have proceeded half a mile, we enter the beautiful woods of Llanfair, the delightful seat of John Griffith, Esq. a gentleman, who according the example of his ancestors, and the custom of “those good old times,” resides constantly in the country, and gives employment to a number of poor persons, who would otherwise, in all probability, be chargeable to some Parish; he does not dismiss from his service the super-anuated domestic—relieves the wants of the indigent, and promotes the comfort of the Cottager, by numerous acts of charity, and is an indulgent and generous Landlord. The neatness of the fences, the thriving state of the plantations, the rich appearance of the land, and the judicious management of the Home-stall, together with the improved method of farming, must attract the attention of every passenger. Nearer Carnarvon, on the banks of the Menai, is the small but neat Parish Church of Llanfair Isgaer, partly re-built at the above gentleman’s expence, and from which his mansion takes its name. Not far from hence is Crûg, a house once the property of Sir W. Williams Wynne, but which was purchased by J. Griffith, Esq. of Llanfair; it deserves notice as being the place where Meredith ap Jevan ap Robert of Cesail Gyfarch, ancestor of Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, was nursed, and from whence he removed to the Castle of Dolydd Helen.—This Meredith (as Sir John Wynne informs us, in the History of the Gwydir Family) married a daughter-in-law of one Spicer, of Carnarvon, who had an office in the Exchequer in that Town, and was a person of £50. per annum, and his son, John Spicer, was a Justice of the Peace, in the first Commissions after the new Ordinance of Wales, as we learn from the same authority. Within a mile of Carnarvon, and near the road, is a handsome modern-built house, Ty Coch, the residence of the Rev. H. Jones.—Near this place once stood an old Mansion, called Plas Bretwn, belonging to the Breretons, a family who probably came to this country with Edward the First, or soon after; and nearly in this direction, a new Ferry was established within these few years, and we lament to state that on the 5th of August, 1820, owing to the very culpable negligence of the Ferrymen, in over-loading the boat, and carrying too much sail, (it being a very windy day) it was upset, and out of 26 persons, one man only was saved.—A similar accident happened about 37 years ago at Tal y Foel, (the Ferry opposite Carnarvon) with this difference, that in the former instance the boat sunk in the day time, and the passengers instantly went down, to rise no more, and in the latter, it struck on a Sand Bank, in the middle of the Channel, during the ebb of the tide, where these unfortunate people remained for many hours, calling for that assistance, which, owing to the darkness of the night; and the violence of the storm, it was impossible to afford them. [66] Proceeding along the road, the traveller cannot but admire the singularly beautiful entrance to