Should the stranger not be disposed to accompany us in our Tour round the Promontory of Lleyn, and to the Island of Bardsey, (which, by the bye, we hope to render both interesting and amusing), he may proceed from Carnarvon to Bethgelert, and from thence, along the sea coast, to Barmouth, by Tremadoc and Harlech; or, from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tan y Bwlch, Meantwrog, Trawsfynydd, and so by Dol y Melynllyn, and the Cain and Mawddach Waterfalls to Dolgelley. The distance from Carnarvon to Bethgelert is about 12 miles: we proceed up the Hill, by Llanbeblig, (the Parish Church) then over Pont Peblig Bridge, about half a mile beyond which, on the left, is Glangwnna, the beautiful and much-admired seat of Thomas Lloyd, Esq. standing on a fine eminence, between two rivers, at the western extremity of the Parish of Llanrug; this place, in point of situation, possesses many natural advantages, and all the improvements exhibit evident tokens of a judicious mind, and cultivated taste, as it contains, within its own limits, all the requisites to form a fine landscape, and has on one side an extensive sea prospect, on the other, a range of majestic mountains; upon the whole, this is generally considered as one of the sweetest and loveliest Villas in this part of the Principality. On the right, about the same distance from the road, is Penrhôs, a large, handsome house, lately built by the proprietor, H. R. Williams, Esq.; it commands a fine view of the Castle, the Menai, Carnarvon Bay, and the surrounding Scenery. About three miles farther, we approach the beautiful little vale of Bettws Garmon, watered by the river Gwyrfai, the source of which is at the foot of Snowdon, and after running through Quellyn Lake, and under Pont Newydd Bridge, it empties itself into the Menai, at Abermenai. On the right, Mynydd-mawr forms a striking feature, its top is smooth, but its front is formed into an immense precipice, retiring inwards in a semicircular shape. Moel Aelia, on the left, is another mountain of a stupendous bulk, most regularly rounded, and of a beautiful verdure; this pass was defended, on one side, by Castell Cidwm, a great rock at the foot of Mynydd mawr, formerly fortified, and on the other by a small Fort, the remains of which are still visible, near Treflan Bettws is a perpetual Curacy; the Church is very small, and is dedicated to St. Germanus, and the Parish consists only of six or seven tenements; the corn tithe belongs to the family of Glyn Llifon; it is in the patronage of the Bishop. About half a mile beyond Bettws, near a small mill, Melin Cerrig y Rhyd, commonly called Nant Mill, is a most beautiful cascade, and a small Arch, without any Battlements, forming a very singular appearance, of which there is a view, in Mr. Pennant’s Tour, representing a person on horseback, going home over this little Bridge, with a load from the mill. On the left is Nant Hall, one of the seats of Sir R. Williams, Bart. Member for this County.—The present lord Viscount Bulkeley is a descendant (by the mother’s side) of the Rowland’s of this house.—Soon after passing Nant, the Vale expands with a magnificent view of Snowdon—travel along the side of Llyn Cawellyn, pass the Snowdon guide’s house, and proceed to the junction of the Drws y Coed road, near a small Bridge, about a quarter of a mile beyond Quellyn Lake, and soon after arrive in view of Llynn Cader, a small round pool on the right, respecting which the Welsh people relate a ridiculous tale, that a gentleman’s hounds, in former days, started, on a rock near this Lake, a strange kind of an animal (Aur Frychyn) with tufts of hair shining like gold, nearly approaching, according to their representation, to a species of Buffalo, and that he was pursued for some time and killed, near a place called Nant y lle, and that he bellowed so loud when taken that the rocks rent. After travelling about two miles, we begin to descend towards Bethgelert, and observe, on the right, Moel Hebog, a lofty conical Hill, which Lord Lyttleton ascended from Brynkir, when he made the Tour of North Wales. Bethgelert is a neat little village, in a romantic situation, between high mountains; here is a good Inn, surrounded with thriving plantations, built about eighteen years ago, by Thomas Jones, Esq. of Bryn Tirion, before mentioned. The Church is small, and has been Conventual, belonging to a Priory of Augustines, and dedicated to St. Mary. There is reason to suppose, says Mr. Pennant, they might have been of that class which was called Gilbertines, and consisted of both men and women, who lived under the same roof, but strictly separated from each other by a wall; the cause of his suspicion is a meadow, near the Church, called Dol y Lleian, the Nun’s meadow. Bethgelert is supposed to be the most ancient foundation in the Country, except Bardsey. Tanner ascribes it to our last Prince, but it must have been long before his days, there being a recital of a Charter, for certain Lands bestowed on it, by Llewelyn the Great, who began his reign in 1194. It was favored, in the same manner, by other succeeding Princes; David ap Llewelyn bestowed on it some Lands in Pennant Gwernogan, belonging to Tudor ap Madoc, to which the Prince had no right; this occasioned a suit between the sons of Tudor and Philipp, Prior of the House, before William de Grandison, and R. de Stanedon, at Caernarvon, when a verdict was given against the Convent. The Prior had for his support the Grange of Llecheiddior, in Eifionydd, and part of a mill; the Grange of Fentidillt, and Village of Gwehelyn; the Grange of Tre’r Beirdd in Anglesey, one Plough Land, and a certain share of the bees. The esteem which these insects were held in by the Ancient Britons, on account of their producing the nectareous Mead, was so great, that they considered them as created in Paradise, that when they quitted it on the fall of man, they were blessed by God himself, and therefore no Mass ought to be celebrated but by the light of their wax, as we read in the laws of Howel Dda. The Prior had, besides, an allowance of fifty cows and twenty-two sheep; the expences of the house must have been considerable, for it was on the great road from England and South Wales to North Wales, and from Ireland to England. In order to enable this place to keep up its usual hospitality, after it had suffered in 1283, by a casual fire, Edward 1st most munificently repaired all the damages; and Bishop Anian, about the year 1286, for the encouragement of other benefactors, remitted to all such who truly repented of their sins, forty days of any penance inflicted on them. In 1535 it was bestowed by Henry VIII. on the Abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey, and in 1537, it was given, with the last, as an Appurtenance to that of Bisham, in Berkshire. On the dissolution, the King gave to the family of the Bodvels, all the Lands in Carnarvonshire, which belonged to this Priory, and all those in Anglesey, to that of the Prydderchs, excepting the Township of Tre’r Beirdd. The Revenues of Bethgelert were valued, by Dugdale, at Seventy Pounds, Three Shillings and Eight-pence; by Speed, at Sixty-nine Pounds, Three Shillings, and Eight-pence. Edward Conway is mentioned as last Prior. There are no remains at present of the Convent.—Mr. Pennant had in his possession a drawing of the Seal of the Priory, dated 1531; on it was the figure of the Virgin and child, but no part of the Legend except BETHKELE. Lewis Daron, a Bard of the 15th Century, in a Poem, (the purport of which is to solicit David the Prior to bestow a fine bay horse, then in his possession, on John Wynne, of Gwydir, Esq.) extols him on account of his great learning and liberality.—Hence we are led to suppose that this Monk was very opulent, and a popular character in his time. The ground on the South side of the Church, seems to have been the spot, says Mr. Williams, late of Llandegai, in his “Observations on the Snowdon Mountain,” whereon stood the buildings which the Monks formerly inhabited, and we may discover two or three arched doors, now closed up on that side of the Church, through which these religious persons probably entered, when they went to their devotions; there is likewise an ancient Mansion House, near the Church, which probably was the habitation of the Prior. In this house was shewn, some years ago, an old pewter mug, which will contain two quarts, or more, and was called the Bethgelert Pint, and any person who could grasp it in one hand, and drink up the contents, (which was ale) at one draught, was entitled to the liquor, gratis, and the tenant was to charge the value of it to the Lord of the Manor, as part payment of his rent. At Bethgelert lie buried two eminent Bards, Rhys Goch Eryri, and Dafydd Nanmor; the former died about the year 1420, and it may be inferred, from his writings (many of which are still extant) that he lived to the great age of 120. He was a man of property, and lived at Hafod Garegog, situated beyond Pont Aberglaslyn, on the road to Tan y Bwlch, and consequently in the County of Merioneth, though within the limits of this Parish. The latter resided at Nanmor, which is also a district of this Parish, on the same side of the river. He died about A.D. 1460, and appears to have been a person of some consequence; they were both learned men, (considering the age they lived in) as their compositions abundantly testify.
To the N.E. of the village, is the entrance into the beautiful little Vale of Nant Gwynant, which, though narrow at first, expands and unfolds its beauties, as the traveller advances; this valley may be considered, however, as consisting of two portions or divisions, separated by a narrow defile; at the upper end of the lower vale is Llynn Dinas Emrys, and just above it, commanding a delightful view of that Lake, the River, the Woods, Mountains, &c. and particularly of Snowdon, is Plâs Gwynant, the romantic Summer residence of D. Vaudrey, Esq. Just below this small Lake, and nearly in the centre of the Vale, appears the famous Dinas Emrys, which is a huge insulated rock, clothed with wood, and precipitous on three sides; on the summit is a large area, but no remains of a Castle. On the accessible side are three ramparts of stone, within which is the ruin of a small stone building, about ten yards long, the walls without any mortar. This place is from early times celebrated in British story, for here
Prophetic Merlin sat, when to the British King,
The changes long to come, auspiciously he told.
The legend is thus told: when Vortigern found himself unable to contend with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had, in the year 449, invited into Britain, he determined, by the advice of his Magicians, on building an impregnable fortress in Snowdon. He collected the materials, which all disappeared in one night.—The Prince, astonished at this, convened again his wise men, who assured him his building would never stand, unless it was sprinkled with the blood of a child, born without the help of a father; the Realm was ransacked,—at length, one of his emissaries overheard some boys at play reproach another, and call him an unbegotten knave. The child and his mother were brought before the King,—she confessed he was the offspring of an Incubus. The boy, whose name was Merlin, was ordered to be sacrificed, but on confounding all the Magicians, with his questions, and explaining the cause of the miscarriage, got his liberty, and
To that mighty King, who rashly undertook
A strong wall’d Tower to rear, those earthly spirits that shook
The great foundation still, in Dragon’s horrid shape
That dreaming wizzard told, making the mountain gape
With his most powerful charms, to view those caverns deep
And from the top of Brith, so high and wondrous steep,
Where Dinas Emrys stood, shewed where the serpent fought,
The white that tore the red, from whence the Prophet wrought
The Britons sad decay, then shortly to ensue.
The above is Drayton’s translation of the legend, in his Polyolbion. Merlin, or Merddin Emrys, or Ambrosius, was in fact the son of a noble Roman of the same name; his mother, a vestal, to save her life and honor, invented the fable of his father, which was swallowed by the credulity of the times. Merlin, or Myrddin, was an able Mathematician and Astronomer, and deeply read in all the learning of his age. The vulgar, as usual, ascribed all he did to the art of magic, and his discovery, that Vortigern had begun to found his Castle on a Morass, was immediately said to have been attended with most portentous circumstances; numbers of Prophecies were attributed to him, the repetition of which is said to have been forbidden, by the Council of Trent; however, since it is certain that Vortigern, after his misfortunes, retired to the Snowdon Hills, and died not very remote from them, it is possible he might have selected this for his strong hold, as it is admirably adapted for that purpose, and nearly fills the streight of the valley, and Merlin Ambrosius might have given to it the name of Emris. A place close by, styled Cell y Dewiniaid, or the Cell of the Diviners, allusive to the Magicians of Vortigern’s Court, is another circumstance which favors the history of this celebrated supposed Prophet, and not at a great distance, are some large stones, which are called Beddau’r Dewiniaid, the Tombs of the Magicians. There is a tradition also, that within this rock there is a Cave, the mouth of which is now shut up, where Merddin concealed some valuable articles, particularly a golden chair, lest they should fall into the enemy’s hands. The upper Lake is called Llyn Gwynant,—the distance between the two is something more than a mile, and near the road are some beautiful thriving plantations, belonging to the Rev. H. Wynne Jones, and Mr. Vaudrey, before mentioned. On the South side of the Upper Lake, are the ruins of a small Chapel, called Capel Nan’hwynen, and it would be a great convenience to the inhabitants if it were re-built, as the distance from hence to Bethgelert is between three and four miles. There is a tradition that Madog, the son of Prince Owen Gwynedd, resided near this spot, for some time before he left his Country, and set sail for America, and that he frequented this small Chapel, of which he is supposed to have been the founder. Mr. Pennant pronounces this to be the most beautiful Vale in Snowdonia, being guarded on each side by vast Mountains, such as Crib Ddu, or part of Mynydd Nanmor; the Aran, on the West, Lliwedd to the North; Dduallt and Wenallt, being about five miles in extent, from its upper extremity to the Village of Bethgelert,—and varied with woods, lakes, rivers, meadows, waterfalls, and rocks of the most fantastic and picturesque appearance. The distance from Bethgelert to Capel Curig is twelve miles, the latter part of which is over an uninteresting mountain moor, or flat; it improves a little, however, within a few miles of the last mentioned place, when we arrive in view of the two Lakes, called Llyniau Mymbir. From Capel Curig to Bettws y Coed, or Bettws wyrion Iddon, is five miles, along the new Irish Road. About half way between these two places is the celebrated Cataract, Rhaiadr y wennol, where the River Llugwy falls, with a tremendous roar, over some steep lofty rocks, into a deep black chasm, concealed by large oak, and dark overhanging woods. Considerable remains of a large Roman building were discovered, some years ago, near this spot, on the Estate of the Duke of Ancaster, at a place called Bryn y Gefeiliau. “I distinctly traced,” says Mr. Lysons, “the walls of one room, the dimensions of which were 60 feet by 20.” This neighbourhood is supposed to have been much frequented by the Romans, on account of its Slate Quarries, and valuable Lead and Copper Mines, and it is conjectured that the Roman Road, from Pen y stryt, and Tommen y Mur, in the Parish of Trawsfynydd, passed this way to Conovium, (Caer Rhun), as it has been distinctly traced by the Church of Dolydd Helen, Cwm Pen nan’maen, Pennant, Hafodty Dôl Camman, Llechwedd Bychan, Foel Fras, and above Hafod Yspytty, &c.—Capel Curig is in the Parish of Llandegai, and was a Chapel of ease to that Church and Llanllechid, but is now served with Dolydd Helen; it is dedicated to a reputed saint of the name of Curig, respecting whom, and some other begging Friars, these Welsh lines were written:
Un o honynt, a ddygai
Curig Lwyd, dan gwr ei glôg;
Gwas arall, a ddug Seiriol,
A naw o gaws yn ei gol.A certain Friar, to increase his store
Beneath his cloak, grey Curig’s Image bore;
And, to protect good folks from nightly harm,
Another sells St. Seiriol as a charm.
It may reasonably be supposed that St. Curig resided for some time in this sequestered spot, as we find many persons of eminence, in the fifth and sixth Centuries, to have fled from the borders of Scotland, and other parts of Great Britain, to the Mountains of Wales, to avoid the Saxon sword. Any person who may be desirous of visiting the old British Castle of Dolydd Helen, may take a guide from Capel Curig, and cross over near the foot of that high mountain, Moel Siabod, often conspicuous from most distant places. This fortress is situated on a high rock, precipitous on one side and insulated; it consists of two square Towers, one forty feet by twenty-five, the other thirty-one by twenty; each had formerly three floors. This was founded by one of our Welsh Princes, but we are ignorant of its origin.—Iorwerth Drwyn dwn (or with the broken nose) made this place his residence, and here is said to have been born his son Llewelyn the Great, who began his reign in the time of Richard the first. Meredydd ap Ievan, before mentioned, and who was brought up at Crug, near Carnarvon, and who was an ancestor of the Wynne’s of Gwydir, in the reign of Henry VII. purchased the Lease of this Castle, and the Inclosures belonging to it, from the Executors of Sir Ralph Berkenet, it having been excepted among the places granted by Richard III. and resumed by his successor. Before that time, Howel ap Evan ap Rhys Gethin, a noted outlaw, resided here. As soon as it came into the possession of Meredydd, he removed from his habitation in Eifionydd, (a hundred in the County) to this Castle, giving this excellent reason: “I had rather fight with outlaws and thieves, than with my own blood and kindred. If I live in my own house in Eifionydd, I must either kill my own kinsmen, or be killed by them.” The feuds among the principal gentlemen in Evionedd occasioned perpetual murders, and Nant-Conwy was filled with banditti. This gentleman soon reformed the Country; he established colonies of the most tall and able men he could procure, till at last they amounted to seven score tall bowmen, every one arrayed in a jacket or armolet coat, a good steel cap, a short sword and dagger, together with his bow and arrows; many of them also had horses, and chasing slaves, which were ready to answer the cry on all occasions. He founded the strong house of Pen nan’maen, a mile distant from the Castle. He removed the Church, which before lay in a thicket, to a more open place, by way of security; for he never dared to quit his house, without leaving in it a strong guard, and another of twenty tall Archers to attend him, whenever he went to Church, besides a watchman, on a rock called Carreg y Bîg, to give notice of the approach of the banditti.—He ended his useful life in 1525, and left behind him twenty-three legitimate, and three natural children.—The Church had been an impropriation of the Abbey of Beddgelert; it is very small, and has in it a monument commemorating such of the family as were buried in it. After proceeding so far, many persons may feel inclined to visit Llanrwst, the rout to which we have before described, not only on account of its celebrated Bridge, built by Inigo Jones, but in order to visit the ancient Monuments within the Gwydir Chapel, of which a most correct and beautiful view has lately been given to the public, by Mr. H. Hughes, of Llan Saint Ffraid, Glann Conwy, who is now publishing the Beauties of Cambria, and, as a native artist of genius and merit, deserves the countenance and support of every friend to his country.
We shall now return to the Village of Bethgelert, and proceed from thence to the celebrated Pont Aberglaslyn, by some called (though very improperly) the Devil’s Bridge, [149] about a mile distant; the first part of the road is through some thriving plantations, afterwards along the Banks of the River, when in a short time the mountains approach so close, as to leave only room for the furious torrent to roll over its stony bed, above which is a narrow road, formed with incredible labour, impending over the water; the scenery is the most magnificent that can be imagined: the mountains rise to very uncommon height, and oppose to us nothing but a broken series of precipices, one above the other, as high as the eye can reach. Here is very little appearance of vegetation, yet there are small patches here and there, sufficient to tempt the poor goat to its destruction, for it will sometimes leap down to an alluring tuft of verdure, where, without possibility of return, it must remain to perish, after it has finished the dear-bought repast. The Bridge terminates the pass, and consists of a single Arch over a deep chasm, and supported on each side by a projecting rock,—above is a small cataract, where the traveller at times may have much amusement, in observing the Salmon, in great numbers, make their efforts to surmount the heights. Here had been a Royal weir, in the Reign of Henry IV. which was then rented by Robert ap Meredydd. It probably belonged, in old times, to our natural Princes, for it seems to have been a most valuable privilege, as we read that young Prince Elphin was endowed with one by his Royal Father; and the celebrated Bard Taliesin, wrote a Poem to console him on his disappointment in finding one morning an empty weir, which probably in those times was very seldom the case:
Elphin deg, taw ath wylo
Na chabled neb yr eiddo
Ni wna les drwg obeithio, &c.Elphin, fair as roseate morn,
Cease o lovely youth to mourn &c.See Pennant’s Tour.