The flesh of a tortoise, called the matamata by the aborigines of Cayenne (Chelys matamata, Dumeril, C. fimbriata, Spix), is said to be highly esteemed in various parts of Guiana.
There is a great variety of land tortoises in Trinidad and some of the other West Indian Islands, which in general are as delicious as the best green turtle.
The eggs of the close tortoise (Testudo clausa) of North America, are reckoned a delicacy, and are about the size of pigeons’ eggs.
The gopher tortoise (Testudo Carolina, of Leconte) occasionally makes considerable depredations in the potato fields of the farmer, and in gardens and other cultivated grounds, but its flesh is excellent, and hence it is sought after for the table.
The flesh of the Carolina terrapin or box tortoise (Cistudo Carolina) is occasionally eaten, but it is held in low estimation; the eggs, however, which are about as large as those of a pigeon, are accounted excellent, and are much sought after.
The flesh of the European box tortoise (Cistudo Europæa), though not very delicate, is nevertheless eaten on the Continent; it is said, however, to be greatly improved by feeding the animals for some time on grains, bran, and other vegetable aliment. The salt water terrapin (Emys concentrica), which is found both in North and South America, is in great request, its flesh being highly esteemed as a delicacy for the table, especially at the close of the summer, when the animals have returned to their winter dormitory. They are then fat, and considered as a luxury.
The eggs of the terrapin are not provided with a hard shell, but a skin like that purest of all parchments, parchment just before it receives the ink of law upon it.
The general method of killing these animals is a most barbarous one. They are laid upon their backs, either close to the fire, or upon the red wood-ashes, until the thick shell becomes so hot to the animal within that he desperately stretches out both legs and neck, in the vainest of endeavours to extricate himself from the walls of his burning house. The tender-hearted cook watches his opportunity, and when it is evident that, in ordinary phrase, the poor terrapin ‘cannot contain itself,’ or in other words, will no longer draw back his head into such a living furnace—the knife descends, and the head is cut away. The late Mr. Charles Hooton told me, that he had seen such heads at least half-an-hour after being cut off, attempt, on being touched, to bite with sufficient force to take the piece out of the finger. During this time the eyes will occasionally open, though generally they remain shut.
The flesh of the Indian Cryptopus, a river or fluviatile tortoise (Cryptopus granosus, Bibr., Testudo scabra, Latr.) is eaten in Pondicherry and Coromandel, where it lives in large sheets of fresh water or lagoons.
The flesh of the soft tortoise of America (Trionyx ferox, Cuvier), which inhabit the rivers of Carolina and Georgia, is eaten.