On Naval Timber and Arboriculture / With Critical Notes on Authors who have Recently Treated the Subject of Planting

by Patrick Matthew

Although we consider severe root fracture at planting pernicious to some hard wood and resinous trees, yet there are kinds to which it is advantageous. All plants which grow freely by cuttings, strike better to have the roots pruned in near to the bulb. Many kinds of seedling-plants also strike sooner, and throw out stronger new root-leaders, when the long straggling fibres are cut in a little, similar to the branches above, which, when over-numerous and slender, throw out more vigorous shoots by being cropped at planting.

PLANTING.

In regard to planting, soils divide into the dry and the moist; the former require to have the plants put in as soon as possible after the leaves drop off—at any rate, not to allow February to pass without completing the planting; excepting evergreens, {115} which should not be delayed beyond the middle of April. In dry soils, if the expense be not limited to a very low rate, pit-planting should be adopted, and the pits are better to be dug some months previous, in order that the earth may be aërated, and the turf partly rotted. The moist soils may be divided into those which are much disposed to throw the plant from the frosts and thaws, and those which are not; the former consisting of moory, soft, or spongy earth, upon a retentive subsoil; the latter, of the firmer, more equable loams, clays, and tills. Unless the plants are large, they should always be slitted into the former soil, and the work performed as soon as the ground becomes sadded in spring—as, though the lateness of planting should preclude throwing of pitted plants the first season, they will often be thrown the ensuing winter. When plants are very small, they may be put into the latter, by slitting; but if middle-sized, or large, they are better pitted. It is of the greatest importance to these moist soils, to have very deep, open[27] drains executed previous to planting, cutting off all the springs at their sources, and, if possible, drying the subsoil to such a degree that water will not stand in the pits. Should this be {116} accomplished, it is highly advantageous to dig the pits in time for the excavated clay to have its cohesion broken by frost: the planting should afterwards be performed exactly at the time when this frosted mould is sufficiently dry, and no more, to shake conveniently in among the fibres of the roots, and not to knead into mortar, by the necessary pressing of the feet. After this pressure, a little of the tenderest of the soil should be spread loose over the surface, to exclude drought. Should this dryness of subsoil not be effected, the pits must be dug in spring, at the time the clay is most friable; that is, between the moist and dry; and the plants put in immediately, breaking the clay as fine as possible, and closing it well around the roots. It is better to delay planting even till May, than to perform it too wet. When planting is delayed late in spring, the plants should be kept shoughed in the coldest situation that can be found, at the top of a hill exposed to the north, or in some cold, damp, back-lying place. Care should also be taken not to expose them much while planting, as they, especially if the buds be bursting, very soon wither when root and stem are both exposed to the sun and dry air. When late planted, they ought always to be dipped as far up as the branches in a puddle of clay and water: {117} should they be dipped over head in the puddle, it will not injure them.

What is of most importance to the success of planting, is to have the soil put very closely in contact with all the root-fibre, and these fibres in due natural separation, with a little tender mould on the surface;—not to have water stagnating around the root, at any rate during the first spring;—to have the planting done in time, to receive a good sadding by rain before the spring droughts commence;—to prevent rank weeds, furze, &c. from smothering the young plants;—and to exclude or destroy all bestial, as cattle, sheep, rabbits, hares, mice, &c. In keeping the latter in check, a few families of foxes are very efficient.

FURTHER OBSERVATIONS ON PRUNING.

Every forester is aware, that when feeders are pruned off, they should be cut away as close as possible to, and without tearing the hole. To perform this without danger of injury to the tree, when feeders of considerable size are to be removed, the branch should first be sawn over at about one foot beyond the intended section, and a second section then performed at the proper place. This {118} requires a little more time, but not nearly so much as an inexperienced person would suppose, as the section a foot out is made very quickly, and the pruner generally takes as much time to reach the branch as to cut it off. The neatness and advantage of this method will be acknowledged by those who have seen it practised, to compensate for the longer time it requires.

We find the saw, shears, and knife, the best instruments for pruning; in some cases of difficult approach, the long-handed pruning-iron may be resorted to. When the lopping is performed by a percussion tool, the wood and bark at the section is often shattered by the blow, and thence is less likely to cicatrize soundly; and even when executed in the best manner, the surface of the section is smooth and hard, consequently a good conductor of heat, dries much, and thence shrinks and cracks near the centre of the cut, opening a deep crevice, into which the rain penetrates, and often rots deep into the stem. When the section is made by the saw, a slight fibrous clothing is left upon the place, which in some measure protects the ends of the cut tubes from the frost and drying air, and excludes the heat; in consequence the wood at the section does not lose its vitality so far inward, and is not so liable to shrink {119} and crack in the centre and receive rain. The section can also generally be made much neater and closer by the saw than by any other instrument. The common erroneous belief, that a section by a sharp-edged instrument is less injurious than by the saw, is merely hypothetical, from wide analogy from animals. The pernicious influence on the whole individual, received and transmitted by the nerves from mangled section of animal fibre, is probably entirely awanting in vegetables; the whole process of life and of cicatrization is also totally different.

The forester should also be very wary in cutting off a considerable branch, whose section would incline upwards, as such a section, when it has received a circle of new bark and wood, forms a cup which receives and contains rain water, which quickly corrupts the bottom of the cup, and often rots the centre of the tree down to the ground. It is better to crop such a branch several feet from the main stem, close by some small feeder, unless the branch be dead. In pruning, every considerable section should be as near as possible at right angles with the horizon, or rather inclining inward below. Of naval timber, the beech is by far the most likely to take rot by being pruned, and should never have a large limb cut off, as the divided fibres generally die {120} downward a number of feet below the section, and soon afterward decay, leaving a hole in the bole.

As nothing retards the growth of trees more than full flowering and seeding, if pruning diminish this flowering and seeding, so that the gain from the prevention of this exhaustion more than counterbalances the loss of the pruned-off part, the pruning will of course accelerate the growth of the tree; but the removal of lower branches, although in the first place promotive of growing buds and extension of the top, in a year or two longer only tends to throw the tree more into flowering and seeding. The rich dryness, or want of fluidity of the juices which occasions flower-buds, is also induced by hot, dry atmosphere, and short supply of moisture from the roots during the preceding summer, both of which disposing causes are increased by a long naked stem. When the proportion of the part above ground of a tree to the roots is diminished, growing buds result, at least to a certain extent; yet it would be very difficult to practise a proper system of pruning on this principle, as the consequent lengthened stem is, in the end, promotive of flower-buds, especially in dry seasons, and the loss of feeders might greatly counterbalance the gain from not flowering, did a succession of wet cold seasons follow. {121}

The season when pruning should be performed, is something dependent upon the kinds, whether they bleed when pruned in early spring or do not. Almost any convenient time will suit for pruning the latter, but we rather prefer March, April, May, June, or autumn after the leaf has fallen. The former, sycamore, maple, birch, &c. ought either to be pruned in autumn, or after the buds are beginning to break in spring, as they bleed and suffer considerable exhaustion when pruned in the latter part of winter or early spring. From some facts, we consider that pruning in winter, especially in severe weather, gives a check to the vigour of the tree; others agree with this.