THE city of Popayan is forty leagues from the town of Pasto, and the first village on the road was great and very populous in ancient times, as well as when the Spaniards discovered it, and even now it contains many Indians. The valley of Patia becomes very narrow at this village, and the Indians live in deep and lofty ravines on the western side. The Spaniards call the place “El pueblo de la Sal.” It is very rich, and has yielded goodly tribute of fine gold to those who have held the encomienda here. The natives, in their arms, dress, and customs, resemble those of the countries we have already passed, except that they do not eat human flesh, and are a little more civilised. They have many very fragrant pine-apples, and they trade with the province of Chapanchita and with other neighbouring districts. Beyond this village is the province of Masteles, which contains, or did contain, more than four thousand Indians fit for war. Adjoining it is the province of the Abades and the villages of Ysancal and Pangan and Caquanpas, and that they call “Los Chorros,” and Pichilinbuy, also Tuyles and Angayan, Pagual, Chuchaldo, and many more. Inland, towards the west, there are reports of many more Indian villages and rich mines in districts extending as far as the South Sea. The following villages also border on the road, namely, Asqual, Mallama, Tucurres, Sapuys, Iles, Gualmatal, Funes, Chapal, Males and Piales, Pupiales, Turca, and Cumba. All these villages were inhabited by chiefs and Indians called Pastos, and hence the town of Pasto has received its name, being as much as to say, “the town built in the land of Pasto;” also another tribe of Indians borders on the Indians called Pastos, who are known as the Quillacingas, and whose villages are to the eastward, and are well peopled. The names of their principal villages are Mocondino, Bexendino, Buyzaco, Guajanzangua, Mocoxonduque, Quaquanquer, and Macaxamata. Still further to the east there is another province, which is somewhat larger and more fertile, called Pastoco, and another near a lake on the summit of a mountain, where the water is so cold that, though the lake is eight leagues long and more than four broad, no fish nor bird can live in it. The land, too, produces no maize, nor are there any trees. There is another lake near it of the same kind. Further on there are great mountains, and the Spaniards do not know what there is on the other side of them.
There are other villages on the road to this city, but it seems unnecessary to enumerate them, having already mentioned the principal ones. With regard to this city of Pasto, I have to say that no city or town in the whole government of Popayan has so many Indians subject to it, and it even has more than Quito and other places in Peru. Populous as the district now is, in ancient times it must have been far more populous, for it is most astonishing to see, in all the wide spread plains, on the banks of rivers, on the hills and lofty mountains, that there is not a part (how rugged and inaccessible soever) which does not give signs of having been tilled or built over in times past. The customs of these Indians, called Quillacingas and Pastos, differ from those of the people we have passed, for the Pastos do not eat human flesh, either when they fight with the Spaniards or with each other. Their arms are stones thrown from the hand, staves like shepherds’ crooks, and a few badly-made lances. They are a poor-spirited people. The chiefs are well-mannered, but the rest of the Indians are ill-favoured, as well the men as the women, and all very dirty, but gentle and good-tempered. All these Indians are so nasty, that, when they louse themselves, they eat the lice as if they had been nuts, and their drinking vessels and cooking utensils are very seldom cleaned out. They have no creed, nor have idols been seen amongst them, but they believe that after death they will come to life again to live in some pleasant and delightful place. There are some things amongst these Indians that are so secret that God alone can penetrate them. Their women go dressed in a narrow cloth which covers them from the bosom to the knees, with a smaller one falling over it. These mantles are made either of the bark of a tree or of cotton. The men wear a mantle three or four varas long, which is passed once round the waist, and then over the neck, the end being wrapped round the head. The Quillacingas, as well as the Pastos, also wear a cloth between the legs. They wear a mantle of cotton, which is broad and flowing, with another over the shoulders, the women wearing one which falls over the bosom. The Quillacingas converse with the devil. They have neither temple nor creed, and when they die the bodies are put into large and deep tombs, together with all the property of the deceased, which is not much. If the dead man has been a chief, they bury some of his wives and servants with him. They also have a custom, which is this (according to what I am told): when one of the chiefs dies, the surrounding chiefs send two or three of their women, who are taken to the tomb and given enough maize-wine to make them drunk. As soon as they are insensible they are buried in the tomb to keep company with the dead man; so that none of these savages die without having twenty persons to keep them company, and, besides these people, they put many jars of wine and other provisions into the tomb.
When I passed through the country of these Indians, I collected the particulars which I now relate with great diligence, making all the inquiries I possibly could; and, among other things, I asked why they practised such an evil custom, and why, not content with burying their own women alive, they sought for more victims from amongst their neighbours? I found out that the devil appears in a terrible and appalling form (according to their own account), and gives them to understand that they will come to life again in a great kingdom which is prepared for them, and that they will arrive with more authority if they are well attended. They also fall into other sins through the wiles of this accursed enemy. God our Lord knows why he allows the devil to converse with these people, and to wield such great power over them by deceiving them. Now his Divine Majesty is displayed, and many Indians, abhorring the devil, have embraced our holy religion. Some of the Pastos converse with the devil. When the chiefs die, all possible honour is done to their memory; the people mourn for many days, and the same things are put into their tombs as I have already stated.
The districts of Pasto yield but little maize, but there are great breeding-places for cattle, and especially for pigs, which are raised in vast quantities. The country yields much barley, potatoes, and xiquimas,[255] and there are very luscious granadillas[256] and other fruits. In the country of the Quillacingas there is plenty of maize and much fruit, except in the neighbourhood of the lake, where the people have neither trees nor maize, the land being so cold. These Quillacingas are warlike and untameable. There are great rivers of very remarkable water in their country, and it is believed that some of them contain abundance of gold. One of these rivers flows between Popayan and Pasto, called the hot river, which is dangerous and difficult to cross in the winter time. They have stout ropes stretched from one bank to the other, for crossing it. This river contains the most excellent water I have met with in the Indies, or even in Spain. Beyond this river, on the road to Pasto, there is a mountain, of which the ascent is three good leagues long. The famous chase which Gonzalo Pizarro and his followers gave the Viceroy Blasco Nuñez Vela, extended as far as this river.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
In which the account of what there is in this country is concluded, as far as the boundary of Pasto.
THERE is another rather large river in this country of the Pastos, called Ancasmayu,[257] which is the point to which the King Huayna Ccapac, son of the great captain Tupac Ynca Yupanqui, extended his conquests. Having passed the hot river, and the mountain beyond it, the road continues over some plains and hills, and crosses a small paramo,[258] where there was no little cold when I travelled over it. Further on there is a high mountain, on the summit of which a volcano sends forth quantities of smoke at intervals, and in times past, the natives say, it threw out volleys of stones. Coming from Popayan, this volcano is left on the right-hand side. The town of Pasto is situated in a very beautiful valley, through which a river of very sweet and wholesome water flows, fed by numerous springs and brooks. This valley is called Atris, and was formerly very populous, but the inhabitants have now retired to the mountains. It is surrounded by mountains, some wooded and others bare, and the Spaniards have their farms and hunting-lodges in the valley. The banks of the river are always sown with much excellent wheat, barley, and maize, and there is a mill where the wheat is ground, for in this town they do not eat maize-bread, owing to the abundance of wheat. In the plains there are quantities of deer, rabbits, partridges, doves, pigeons, pheasants, and turkeys, and the Indians take many in the chase. The land of the Pastos is excessively cold, and in summer it is colder than in winter, the same thing occurring in the town of the Christians, insomuch that the company of a wife is by no means irksome to a husband, nor is plenty of clothes disagreeable. The delightful town of Pasto was founded and settled by the captain Don Lorenzo de Aldana, in the name of his Majesty, the Adelantado Don Francisco Pizarro being his governor and captain-general of all the provinces of Peru, in the year of our Lord 1539. The said Lorenzo de Aldana was lieutenant-general for the same Don Francisco Pizarro in Quito, Pasto, Popayan, Timana, Cali, Anzerma, and Cartago. He governed them all, either himself or through lieutenants whom he named, and, as is said by many conquerors in these parts, he ordered that the natives should be well treated during the whole time that he was in command.[259]
CHAPTER XXXV.
Of the notable fountains and rivers in these provinces, and how they make salt of good quality by a very curious artifice.