In the valley of Motupe the royal road of the Yncas is seen, broad and constructed in the manner described in a former chapter. This valley is broad and very fertile, and although a good sized river flows down into it from the mountains, all the water is lost before reaching the sea. The algarobas[358] and other trees grow well, on account of the moisture which they find under their roots. In the lower part of the valley there are villages of Indians, who are supported by water which they obtain from deep wells. They get all that they require by exchanging one thing for another amongst themselves, for they do not use money, nor is any die for coining to be found in these parts. They say that there were great buildings for the Yncas in this valley; and the people had, and still have, their huacas, or burial-places in the barren heights and stony places leading to the Sierra. The late wars have reduced the numbers of the Indians, and the buildings have fallen into ruins, the present inhabitants living in small huts, built in the same way as those described in a former chapter. At certain seasons they trade with the people of the Sierra; and in the valley there are great fields of cotton, with which they make their clothes.
Four leagues from Motupe is the fresh and beautiful valley of Xayanca, which is nearly four leagues broad. A pleasant river flows through it, whence they lead channels which serve to irrigate all the land that the Indians choose to sow. In former times this valley was thickly peopled, like all the others, and it contained great buildings and store-houses belonging to the principal chiefs, where their officers were stationed. The native chiefs of these valleys were reverenced by their subjects, and those who survive still are so. They go about with a retinue of servants and women, and have their porters and guards.
From this valley the road leads to that of Tuqueme, which is also large, pleasant, and full of trees and bushes. It contains vestiges of edifices, which are now ruined and abandoned. A short journey further on brings us to another very beautiful valley called Cinto. And the reader is to understand that from valley to valley the way is over sandy and parched-up stony wastes, where no living thing is to be seen, neither grass nor tree; nothing but a few birds that may be seen flying. Those who travel over the broad sandy deserts, and catch sight of the valley (although still far off) are much cheered, especially if they are on foot, under a hot sun, and suffering from thirst. Men who are new to the country should not travel over these wastes, except with good guides who know the way.
Further on is the valley of Collique, through which flows a river of the same name, so broad that it cannot be forded except in the season when it is summer in the Sierra, and winter on the coast. Nevertheless the natives are so well practised in the management of irrigation channels that, even when it is winter in the Sierra, they sometimes leave the main stream dry. This valley, like the others, is broad and full of trees, but there is a want of inhabitants, for most of them have been carried off by the wars with the Spaniards, and by the evils which these wars brought with them.
CHAPTER LXVIII.
In which the same road is followed as has been treated of in the former chapter, until the city of Truxillo is reached.
BEYOND the valley of Collique there is another valley called Sana, which resembles the others. Further on is the valley of Pacasmayu, which is the most fertile and populous of any that I have yet mentioned. The natives of this valley, before they were conquered by the Yncas, were powerful, and respected by their neighbours, and they had great temples where they offered sacrifices to their gods. They are all now in ruins. In the rocks and hills of the surrounding desert there are a great quantity of Huacas, which are the burial-places of these Indians. In all these valleys there are clergymen or friars who look after the conversion and teaching of the Indians, not permitting them to practise their ancient religious customs or usages.
A very fine river flows through this valley of Pacasmayu, whence they lead many large channels, sufficient to irrigate all the fields that are cultivated by the Indians, and they raise the fruits and roots already enumerated. The royal road of the Yncas passes through this valley, as it does through all the others, and here there were great buildings for the Yncas’ use. The natives tell some ancient traditions of their fathers, which, being fables, I shall not write down. The lieutenants of the Yncas collected the tribute, and stored it in the buildings which were made to receive it, whence it was taken to the chief station in the province, the place selected for the residence of the captain-general, and where the temple of the sun was erected.
In this valley of Pacasmayu they make a great quantity of cotton cloth; the land is suited for breeding cows, still better for pigs and goats, and the climate is healthy. I passed through this valley in the month of September, in the year 1548, to join the other soldiers who had come from the government of Popayan to reinforce the royal camp, and chastise the late rebellion. It then appeared to me to be extremely pleasant, and I praised God on seeing its freshness, with so many trees and flowers, and branches full of a thousand kinds of birds.
Further on is the valley of Chacama,[359] not less fertile and abundant than that of Pascamayu, and in addition it contains great quantities of sweet cane, of which they make much excellent sugar, and other conserves. There is here a Dominican monastery, which the reverend father Friar Domingo de Santo Tomas founded.