“It is clear from Serafim’s report, that the plain through which the Purús flows has a scarcely perceptible declivity, for he nowhere encountered cataracts, or even rapids. Indeed, on referring to the maps, and considering the nature of the ground, we see that the head of navigation of the Purús must needs be on a lower level than that of the Beni and Mamoré; and yet on a tributary of the latter (the Chaparé) Gibbon found that water boiled at 209° 5´, indicating an elevation above the sea of only four hundred and sixty-five feet. This goes far to show that Humboldt may be correct in his supposition of a strip of low land extending from the Amazon valley, between the Andes on the one hand, and the mountains of Brazil on the other, all through the provinces of Mojos and Chiquitos to the basin of the river Plate. The navigable part of the Purús extends to the southward, along this lowland, apparently to far beyond the last falls of the Madeira; its depth is probably great enough to admit of its being navigated by steamers at least up to within two hundred miles of the highest point reached by Serafim; and we may therefore be allowed to predict that the Purús will at some future day become one of the great highways between the Andes and the Amazon.
“Like other affluents of the Amazon flowing through a champaign country, the Purús has numerous lakes, and but very few rivers tributary to it. I have ascended two rivers, entering the Amazon from the northward, which have precisely the same character, viz., the Trombetas and the Pastasa. The latter of these two rivers is in some parts nearly two miles in breadth, but its stream is generally sluggish and so shallow that, although I entered it when the waters were at their highest level, yet when they partially subsided during the voyage, we had great difficulty in finding a channel sufficiently deep to float our canoes, although the latter were merely hollowed trunks, and we were still some distance below the confluence of the Bobonasa. On the Purús, however, Serafim does not once mention being impeded by insufficient depth of water. He complains of the foggy mornings, such as I have experienced on all the rivers whose course is northerly or southerly; whereas on the Amazon, and even on the Rio Negro, so long as its course (in ascending) is westerly, the easterly trade-wind usually prevents any accumulation of fog, especially in the dry season, when that wind prevails most.”
“Richard Spruce.”
“June 13th, 1864.”
CHAPTER XCVI.
How the Indians carry herbs or roots in their mouths, and concerning the herb called coca, which they raise in many parts of this kingdom.
IN all parts of the Indies through which I have travelled I have observed that the natives take great delight in having herbs or roots in their mouths. Thus, in the district of the city of Antioquia, some of the people go about with a small leaf in their mouths, and in the province of Arma they chew another leaf. In the districts of Quinbaya and Anzerma they cut small twigs from a young green tree, which they rub against their teeth without ceasing. In most of the villages subject to the cities of Cali and Popayan they go about with small coca leaves in their mouths, to which they apply a mixture, which they carry in a calabash, made from a certain earth-like lime. Throughout Peru the Indians carry this coca in their mouths, and from morning until they lie down to sleep, they never take it out. When I asked some of these Indians why they carried these leaves in their mouths (which they do not eat, but merely hold between their teeth), they replied that it prevents them from feeling hungry, and gives them great vigour and strength. I believe that it has some such effect, although, perhaps, it is a custom only suited for people like these Indians. They sow this coca in the forests of the Andes, from Guamanga to the town of Plata. The trees are small, and they cultivate them with great care, that they may yield the leaf called coca. They put the leaves in the sun, and afterwards pack them in long narrow bags, containing a little more than an arroba each. This coca was so highly valued in Peru in the years 1548, 1549, 1550, and 1551, that there was not a root nor anything gathered from a tree, except spice, which was in such estimation. In those years they valued the repartimientos of Cuzco, La Paz, and Plata at eighty thousand dollars, more or less, all arising from this coca. Coca was taken to the mines of Potosi for sale, and the planting of the trees and picking of the leaves was carried on to such an extent, that coca is not now worth so much, but it will never cease to be valuable. There are some persons in Spain who are rich from the produce of this coca, having traded with it, sold and re-sold it in the Indian markets.[479]
CHAPTER XCVII.
Of the road from Cuzco to the city of La Paz; and of the villages, until the Indians called Canches are passed.