The War of Quito

by Pedro de Cieza de León

I left Cuzco on the 8th of April after having received letters from the Judge Matienzo to the Inca Titu Cusi Yupanqui, with leave to make an entrance, after having offered my services to go by that route. I went to sleep at Tambo, where they gave me seven Indian carriers to show me the way. Three men of this town were to enter with me, after the cacique had told them that if the Inca asked them whence they came they were to say they came from another part and that they were not natives of Tambo, because it was a garrison of the Inca frontier, and he might kill them, if they said they came from thence.

On the 9th of April I went to the other part of the cordillera, crossed the uninhabited snowy region and slept at Yanamachi, where there are large caves. There I heard that the runners of the Inca had arrived at Chuquichaca which is near the land of peace, and ready to pass to the other side of the river which is subject to the Spaniards. I encouraged the Indians and told them to fear nothing as I would go with them to see what people they were and what they wanted; but they were unwilling. That night seven Indians fled from fear. They carried loads containing some presents for the Inca, bought with my own money and at my cost. Considering one thing and another, I should have wished to return, if it had not been that I was ashamed, and for other secret reasons.

I concealed the loads under some straw, and went on for five leagues to the valley of Amaibamba, three leagues within the land of the Inca, where they gather much coca, and where there are always many Indians at harvest time. The place was devoid of inhabitants, because all had concealed themselves in the forests. There was no one to show me the ford over the river, but I passed, I and the horse, God seeing fit to guide the horse miraculously, the depth being more than 300 estados.

Later in April some of the Indians who had fled, as well as the runners, came to me. I encouraged them and said that I would go to the bridge to see what was going on. I said to them that those others were infidels and were not Christians, and that one Christian could fight all the infidels put together; because those others were infidels and they were Christians. They answered that they had been robbed more than ten or fifteen times, and some of those others had got their wives and children, that they were not men but devils with no fear of God, and that when they had stolen everything they burnt the house, and to insult the Christians they burnt the churches, and had broken the images, and with the cross placed in front they had made a fire and cooked a sheep. It is true that I saw the burnt church, and the pieces they showed me, which may have been bits of the cross. I explained to them that God permitted this for our sins, but that He would inflict a great punishment on those others. I told them that I was going to speak to the Inca on the part of the President of the Municipality and of the Royal Audience of the city of La Plata, and to warn him that if he would not live in conformity with our Holy Catholic Faith and in obedience to his Majesty, war would be declared. While I should be there, they were to keep a good watch on the bridge to see when the runners should arrive, that I might speak with them. They replied that they did not dare, and they also advised me not to, because those others would kill me, and give my body to be eaten by the Anti Indians.

Seeing the small courage of these Indians, I sent them for the loads, to the place where they were hidden, and left the horse here, in the valley of Amaibamba, as the road was very rough, and in places one could not even walk on foot, but like cats. I arrived at the bridge, which is between two great hills, on the 11th of April. I made great lights on the banks of the river to see if any of the Inca’s runners had arrived. I also made a flag of a pocket handkerchief, and put it on the top of a tree as a sign of peace, and a very large cross on the bridge, that they might understand that a Spaniard and Christian had come. Then two runners came from Yucay, which is in the land of peace. They told me that my luggage had arrived and was waiting at Amaibamba, that the Indians who had fled to the mountains had now returned, that they were not frightened now that I was at the bridge, that they would feel safe while I was there, and that the Inca had gone back with his captains.

On the 11th they made great fires, and there was much smoke on the other side of the river. That night two Indian runners fled to the mountains because they did not dare to sleep where I slept, which was close to the bridge. There I was, in much trouble with the mosquitos, which bit me by night and by day, but in no trouble about the Inca’s people. This being the case I determined to return to Amaibamba, and wait there for the runners. If they made any remark I could say that it was three leagues away, and that the bites of mosquitos had swollen my hands and feet, and brought on a fever.

On Good Friday, the 20th of April, in the evening, a runner arrived with the news that six Indians of the Inca had arrived at the bridge, and there appeared to be more behind. It did not appear what object they had, but they had left the cross which I had set up. All the Indians armed themselves and some, from fear, fled to the mountains. I presently went to the bridge, commending myself to our Lord. I went by a very bad road and in the night, having several falls by the way, and much hard work. I took with me two Indians against their will, with coca, bread, and other things to eat. I arrived at the bridge at about 3 o’clock in the morning, and began to cry out and struck a light. The runners then came together and, with many torches of straw alight, we began to talk. I said that I came, with peaceful intent, to speak to the Inca, bringing letters from the Municipality and Judges of the city of La Plata, and another from the Judge Matienzo, requesting permission for me to enter the country, speak to the Inca, and deliver the letters into his hands. They replied that they were satisfied. The letters were thrown over the river with a sling, and coca and bread were passed over on a rope, that they might eat. I asked them to let me leave one of the two Indians until the reply came from the Inca, to which they agreed.

On the 28th of April the Inca replied in a very brief letter. He thanked me for the trouble I had taken, but for the rest he said that he did not want any Spaniard to enter his territory either in peace or in war, for they would only come as spies and to deceive him. He ordered me not to enter, and that if I did his captains would kill me. Further he kissed the hands of the Judge Matienzo and of all the others who had written, and did not reply as he was in bad health. I was to return with this message. I was to be so good as to send him the letters, which I told him I was bringing, that he might have them in his hand. On the day that I received this reply from the Inca, I reflected that if I returned they would say at Cuzco that I was afraid and sought an excuse for not going to the Inca. So I determined to give the letters to the runners, as well as some presents which I had brought, such as raisins and comfits, quince jam, three pieces of cloth, three pairs of scissors, four knives with sheaths, some needles and other things. I wrote that I was his friend, and that he should understand that I had no wish to deceive him, but to tell him what it would be convenient for him to know. If he would give me permission I would enter his territory to recognize him as a Lord. I further said that if I could serve him in anything I would do so. That he might know this to be the truth I sent him a provision appointing me Defender of all the Indians of this kingdom signed by the Count of Nieva[82].

On the 5th of May ten captains came to the bridge, richly dressed with diadems of plumes, and lances in their hands which they brandished, and wearing masks on their faces. They came to the passage of the bridge where I was, and asked if I was the man who had the audacity to want to come and speak to the Inca. I said yes. They replied that I could not fail to be much afraid, and if I felt fear I could not come, because the Inca was a great enemy of cowards. To this I answered that if he was an elephant or a giant I might be afraid, but as he was a man like myself I had no fear, but I would offer him respect. If he would let me enter under his word, I would do so, for I knew that he would keep it. On this they produced two letters. One was from a mestizo who is there, named Pando, and the other from the Inca. They sent them across to me. Some of the Indians who were with me then fled. In both letters there were expressions of joy to understand, from the Provision, that I was not a spy and that I did not come to deceive them. They were pleased that I should come as far as a town called Aramcalla, and that the Inca would come there with his Governor and Master of the Camp.

On the 6th of May I crossed the river in a basket travelling along a cable, and seven Indians came with me. The ten Indians of the Inca helped me to cross, and accompanied me. That night I slept at the foot of a snowy mountain, in an uninhabited village called Condormarca, where there had been a bridge in ancient times, which crossed the river to go to Tambo, Sapamarca, and Viticos in the country of peace.