The inhabitants of Albany and its environs are almost all Dutchmen. They speak Dutch, have Dutch preachers, and divine service is performed in that language: their manners are likewise quite Dutch; their dress is however like that of the English. It is well known that the first [[262]]Europeans who settled in the province of New York were Dutchmen. During the time that they were the masters of this province, they possessed themselves of New Sweden[71], of which they were jealous. However the pleasure of possessing this conquered land and their own, was but of short duration; for towards the end of 1664, Sir Robert Carre, by order of King Charles the second, went to New York, then New Amsterdam, and took it. Soon after Colonel Nichols went to Albany, which then bore the name of Fort Orange, and upon taking it, named it Albany, from the Duke of York’s Scotch title. The Dutch inhabitants were allowed either to continue where they were, and, under the protection of the English, to enjoy all their former privileges, or to leave the country. The greater part of them chose to stay, and from them the Dutchmen are descended, who now live in the province of New York, and who possess the greatest and best estates in that province.
The avarice and selfishness of the inhabitants of Albany are very well known throughout all North America, by the English, by the French, and even by the Dutch, in the lower part of New York province. If a Jew, who understands the art of getting [[263]]forward perfectly well, should settle amongst them, they would not fail to ruin him. For this reason nobody comes to this place without the most pressing necessity; and therefore I was asked in several places, what induced me to go to it, two years one after another. I likewise found that the judgment, which people formed of them, was not without foundation. For though they seldom see any strangers, (except those who go from the British colonies to Canada and back again) and one might therefore expect to find victuals and accommodation for travellers cheaper than in places, where travellers always resort to; yet I experienced the contrary. I was here obliged to pay for every thing twice, thrice, and four times as dear as in any part of North America which I have passed through. If I wanted their assistance, I was obliged to pay them very well for it, and when I wanted to purchase any thing, or to be helped in some case or other, I could presently see what kind of blood ran in their veins; for they either fixed exorbitant prices for their services, or were very backward to assist me. Such was this people in general. However, there were some amongst them who equalled any in North America, or any where else, in politeness, equity, goodness, [[264]]and readiness to serve and to oblige; but their number fell far short of that of the former. If I may be allowed to declare my conjectures, the origin of the inhabitants of Albany and its neighbourhood seems to me to be as follows. Whilst the Dutch possessed this country, and intended to people it, the government took up a pack of vagabonds, of which they intended to clear the country, and sent them along with a number of other settlers to this province. The vagabonds were sent far from the other colonists, upon the borders towards the Indians and other enemies, and a few honest families were persuaded to go with them, in order to keep them in bounds. I cannot any other way account for the difference between the inhabitants of Albany, and the other descendants of so respectable a nation as the Dutch, who are settled in the lower part of New York province. The latter are civil, obliging, just in the prices, and sincere; and though they are not ceremonious, yet they are well meaning and honest, and their promises are to be relied on.
The behaviour of the inhabitants of Albany, during the war between England and France, which was ended with the peace of Aix la Chapelle, has, among several other causes, contributed to make them [[265]]the object of hatred in all the British colonies, but more especially in New England. For at the beginning of that war, when the Indians of both parties had received orders to commence hostilities, the French engaged theirs to attack the inhabitants of New England; which they faithfully executed, killing every body they met with, and carrying off whatever they found. During this time the people of Albany remained neutral, and carried on a great trade with the very Indians who murdered the inhabitants of New England. The plate, such as silver spoons, bowls, cups, &c. of which the Indians robbed the houses in New England, was carried to Albany, for sale. The people of that town bought up these silver vessels, though the names of the owners were graved on many of them, and encouraged the Indians to get more of them, promising to pay them well, and whatever they would demand. This was afterwards interpreted by the inhabitants of New England, as if the Albanians encouraged the Indians to kill more of the people, who were in a manner their brothers, and who were subjects of the same crown. Upon the first news of this behaviour, which the Indians themselves [[266]]spread in New England, the inhabitants of the latter province were greatly incensed, and threatened, that the first step they would take in another war, would be to burn Albany, and the adjacent parts. In the present war it will sufficiently appear how backward the other British provinces in America are in assisting Albany, and the neighbouring places, in case of an attack from the French or Indians[72]. The hatred which the English bear against the people, at Albany, is very great, but that of the Albanians against the English is carried to a ten times higher degree. This hatred has subsisted ever since the time when the English conquered this country, and is not yet extinguished, though they could never have got such advantages under the Dutch government, as they have obtained under that of the English. For in a manner, their privileges are greater than those of Englishmen.
The inhabitants of Albany are much more sparing than the English. The meat which is served up is often insufficient to satisfy the stomach, and the bowl does not [[267]]circulate so freely as amongst the English. The women are perfectly well acquainted with œconomy; they rise early, go to sleep very late, and are almost over nice and cleanly, in regard to the floor, which is frequently scoured several times in the week. The servants in the town are chiefly negroes. Some of the inhabitants wear their own hair, but it is very short, without a bag or queue, which are looked upon as the characteristics of Frenchmen; and as I wore my hair in a bag the first day I came here from Canada, I was surrounded with children, who called me Frenchman, and some of the boldest offered to pull at my French dress.
Their meat, and manner of dressing it, is very different from that of the English. Their breakfast is tea, commonly without milk. About thirty or forty years ago, tea was unknown to them, and they breakfasted either upon bread and butter, or bread and milk. They never put sugar into the cup, but take a small bit of it into their mouths whilst they drink. Along with the tea they eat bread and butter, with slices of hung beef. Coffee is not usual here; they breakfast generally about seven. Their dinner is butter-milk, and bread, to which they sometimes add sugar, [[268]]then it is a delicious dish for them; or fresh milk and bread; or boiled or roasted flesh. They sometimes make use of butter-milk instead of fresh milk, to boil a thin kind of porridge with, which tastes very sour, but not disagreeable in hot weather. To each dinner they have a great sallad, prepared with abundance of vinegar, and very little or no oil. They frequently eat butter-milk, bread, and sallad, one mouthful after another. Their supper is generally bread and butter, and milk and bread. They sometimes eat cheese at breakfast, and at dinner; it is not in slices, but scraped or rasped, so as to resemble coarse flour, which they pretend adds to the good taste of cheese. They commonly drink very small beer, or pure water.
The governor of New York often confers at Albany, with the Indians of the Five Nations, or the Iroquese, (Mohawks, Senekas, Cayugaws, Onondagoes, and Onidoes) especially when they intend either to make war upon, or to continue a war against the French. Sometimes their deliberations likewise turn upon their conversion to the christian religion, and it appears by the answer of one of the Indian chiefs, or Sachems, to governor Hunter, at a conference in this town, that the English do not pay [[269]]so much attention to a work of so much consequence, as the French do, and that they do not send such able men to instruct the Indians, as they ought to do[73]. For after governor Hunter had presented these Indians, by order of Queen Anne, with many clothes, and other presents, of which they were fond, he intended to convince them still more of her Majesty’s good-will, and care for them, by adding, that their good mother, the Queen, had not only generously provided them with fine clothes for their bodies, but likewise intended to adorn [[270]]their souls, by the preaching of the gospel; and that to this purpose some ministers should be sent to them, to instruct them. The governor had scarce ended, when one of the oldest Sachems got up, and answered, that in the name of all the Indians, he thanked their gracious good queen and mother for the fine clothes she had sent them; but that in regard to the ministers, they had already had some among them, (whom he likewise named) who instead of preaching the holy gospel to them, had taught them to drink to excess, to cheat, and to quarrel among themselves. He then entreated the governor to take from them these preachers, and a number of Europeans who resided amongst them; for before they were come among them, the Indians had been an honest, sober, and innocent people, but most of them became rogues now. That they had formerly had the fear of God, but that they hardly believed his existence at present. That if he (the governor) would do them any favour, he should send two or three blacksmiths amongst them, to teach them to forge iron, in which they were unexperienced. The governor could not forbear laughing at this extraordinary speech. I think the words of St. Paul not wholly unapplicable on [[271]]this occasion: For the name of God is blasphemed amongst the Gentiles, through you[74].
June the 21st. About five o’clock in the afternoon we left Albany, and proceeded towards Canada. We had two men with us, who were to accompany us to the first French place, which is Fort St. Frederick, or, as the English call it, Crown Point. For this service each of them was to receive five pounds of New York currency, besides which I was to provide them with victuals. This is the common price here, and he that does not choose to conform to it, is obliged to travel alone. We were forced to take up with a canoe[75], as we could get neither battoes, nor boats of bark; and as there was a good road along the west side of the river Hudson, we left the men to row forwards, in the canoe, and we went along it on the shore, that we might be better able to examine it, and its curiosities, with greater accuracy. It is very incommodious to row in these canoes; for one stands at each end and pushes the boat forwards. They commonly keep close to the shore, that they may be able [[272]]to reach the ground easily. Thus the rowers are forced to stand upright, whilst they row in a canoe. We kept along the shore all the evening, towards the river, it consisted of great hills, and next to the water grew the trees, which I have above mentioned[76], and which likewise are to be met with on the shores of the isle, in the river, situate below Albany. The easterly shore of the river is uncultivated, woody, and hilly; but the western is flat, cultivated, and chiefly turned into corn-fields, which had no drains, though they wanted them in some places. It appeared very plainly here, that the river had formerly been broader. For there is a sloping bank on the corn-fields, at about thirty yards distance from the river, with which it always runs parallel. From this it sufficiently appears, that the rising ground formerly was the shore of the river, and the corn-fields its bed. As a further proof, it may be added, that the same shells which abound on the present shore of the river, and are not applied to any use by the inhabitants, ly plentifully scattered on these fields. I cannot say whether this change was occasioned by the diminishing of the [[273]]water in the river, or by its washing some earth down the river, and carrying it to its sides, or by the river’s cutting deeper in on the sides.
All the grounds were ploughed very even, as is usual in the Swedish province of Upland. Some were sown with yellow, and others with white Wheat. Now and then we saw great fields of flax, which was now beginning to flower. In some parts it grows very well, and in others it was but indifferent. The excessive drought which had continued throughout this spring, had parched all the grass and plants on hills and high grounds, leaving no other green, plant than the common Mullein (Verbascum Thapsus Linn.) which I saw in several places, on the driest and highest hills, growing in spite of the parching heat of the sun, and though the pastures and meadows were excessively poor, and afforded scarce any food at all, yet the cattle never touched the Mullein. Now and then I found fields with pease, but the Charlock, (Sinapis arvensis Linn.) kept them quite under. The soil in most of these fields is a fine mould, which goes pretty deep.
The wild vines cover all the hills along the rivers, on which no other plants grow, and on those which are covered with trees, [[274]]they climb to the tops of them, and wholly cover them, making them bend down with their weight. They had already large grapes; we saw them abundant all this day, and during all the time that we kept to the river Hudson, on the hills, along the shores, and on some little islands in the river.
The white-backed Maize-thieves appeared now and then, flying amongst the bushes: their note is fine, and they are not so large as the black maize-thieves, (Oriolus Phœniceus). We saw them near New York, for the first time.