[LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.]

PAGE

Mont Beuvray

[Frontispiece]

A Gaulish Soldier

[1]

On Mont Beuvray

[7]

The Wivern

[10]

The Porte St. André

[11]

Autun; shewing Cathedral and Mediæval Towers

[17]

Autun; Pierre de Couhard

[19]

Autun; Temple of Janus

[23]

Autun; Porte d'Arroux

[25]

Burgundian Peasant

[30]

Head of Augustus

[31]

Autun; Mediæval Towers

[35]

A Burgundian Welcome

[38]

Masks of Comedy and Tragedy

[40]

Roman Vine Ornament

[41]

St. Lazarus; from the Porch of Autun Cathedral

[46]

Autun; Fontaine St. Lazare

[Facing 50]

Autun; Tour des Ursulines

[52]

Cluny Abbey and Gateway, as they were

[59]

Cluny; Valley of the Grosne and part of the Abbey Grounds

[62]

Cluny; Tour Fabri

[64]

Clunisian Ornament

[67]

God reproving Adam; from a capital of the Abbey of Cluny

[70]

Cluny Abbey, as it was at the beginning of XIXth Century (by permission of M. Perrault-Dabot)

[72]

Cluny; Clocher de l'Eau Bénite

[78]

Cluny; ruined Gate of the Narthex

[81]

A Jewelled Crucifix

[85]

Early Clunisian Ornament

[86]

Cluny; Tour des Fromages

[87]

Cluny; Gateway of the Abbey

[90]

Cluny; Hotel de Ville

[92]

Cluny; Pascal Lamb; twelfth century

[93]

Cluny; Hôtel des Monnaies, twelfth century

[96]

Ornament

[99]

Cluny; a Capital from the Abbey

[102]

Château de Berzé

[104]

Château de Lourdon

[106]

House of Lamartine

[110]

St. Bernard

[111]

St. John: Burgundian School

[119]

Justice and Truth

[126]

Paray-le-Monial; the Church

[127]

Two Priests

[128]

Paray-le-Monial; North Door of the Church

[132]

Gontran and Bertille

[136]

Her Three Crowns

[144]

Abélard and Héloïse

[145]

Beaune; Maison Colombier

[Facing 150]

Chalon-Sur-Saône; Maison de Bois

[159]

The Saône near Tournus

[160]

A Street in Tournus

[162]

Tournus; the Abbey

[170]

By the Saône

[172]

Antigny-le-Chatel

[173]

Arnay-le-Duc; Corner House, sixteenth century

[181]

Arnay-le-Duc; Tour de la Motte Forte

[Facing 182]

Dijon

[184]

Dijon: at the Café

[187]

Moses; from the Puits de Moïse, Dijon

[189]

Philippe le Bon, Duke of Burgundy

[191]

A Corner of the Tomb of Philippe le Hardi

[193]

Pleurants from the Tomb of Philippe le Hardi

[194]

Dijon; Corner of the Place des Ducs

[197]

Pleurant

[199]

Ornament

[200]

Sword

[202]

Dijon: Decorated windows of the Maison Milsand

[203]

Dijon Museum; Woman at Prayer

[204]

Dijon; a Street

[Facing 208]

Dijon; Door of Eglise St. Michel

[211]

Dijon; A Font in the Eglise St. Michel

[212]

Sculpture; Notre Dame de Dijon

[213]

Dijon; Well outside the Duke's Kitchen

[214]

Vine Ornament

[215]

Dijon; a fifteenth century Window

[218]

Ornament

[219]

Arbre Charlemagne

[220]

The Three Huntsmen

[221]

Through the Forest

[225]

Vine Ornament

[230]

Beaune; Belfry of the Hospice de la Charité

[231]

Beaune; Porch of Notre Dame

[Facing 232]

Beaune; Courtyard of the Hôtel Dieu

[235]

Star Ornament

[236]

Saint Martin and Saint Margaret

[237]

Ruins of St. Margaret's Abbey

[239]

La Rochepot

[241]

Beaune: Porch of the Hôtel-Dieu

[Facing 242]

Tomb of Philippe Pot

[245]

Taking his Ease

[247]

Roman Column at Cussy

[251]

Valley of Nantoux

[254]

St. Martin Preaching

[257]

Burgundian Ox-cart

[258]

In Rural Burgundy

[261]

Junction of Rivers Doubs and Saône

[263]

Oxen ploughing

[Facing 264]

Burgundian Cottage

[267]

Château de Moux

[270]

Nantua and the Lake

[272]

Nantua from the Hill

[274]

Princess Margaret's Tomb

[276]

Bourg; in the Street

[278]

Eglise de Brou: Ste. Madeleine from the Tomb of Marguerite d'Autriche

[287]

Eglise de Brou: Ornament from the Tomb of Marguerite d'Autriche

[290]

Princess Marguerite d'Autriche

[292]

Sketch Map of South Burgundy

[293]


[CHAPTER I]

We had expected quiet, rural times in this far-away village of St.-Léger-sous-Beuvray; but I doubt whether we shall get them. The village green in front of the Hotel du Morvan shows signs of unusual animation; it is dotted with carts, which are discharging tent-poles, canvas, golden cars, and other paraphernalia of a country festival; and, surer sign still, through the door of an open shed, I can see hanging, headless and lamentable, the gaping corpse of a fatted calf. Yes! there is his tawny countenance and two mild eyes looking down, like those of a martyred saint, from the cruel hook. The odour of him, wafted in succulent puffs, from the dead-house door, has cheered with a splendid hope half the dogs in the village, and awakened from torpor two ancient hounds, who prowl, almost youthfully, sniffing fragrant memories in the air.