Salvador of the Twentieth Century

by Percy F. Martin

The new theatre, which will soon adorn the city in place of that which was burned down last year, should form a handsome addition to the architecture of San Salvador. The Municipality very wisely invited competition for erecting and designing the building, which is to have a seating capacity of some 1,200. The structure is to be equipped with the latest improvements and appliances, and will be made as fireproof and as earthquake-proof as modern science can effect. The cost will be between 800,000 and 1,200,000 francs, or, say, £32,000 and £48,000. All construction materials are to be imported free of duty, which should lessen the cost immensely. Two prizes were offered, of 800 francs (£32) and 400 francs (£16) respectively, for the best plans, and when the last day for sending these, in—namely, March 15, 1911—had passed, the judges had several handsome designs to choose from.

In the month of March last the number of competitive plans which were sent in to the Department of Fomento for the new National Theatre in the capital amounted to thirteen, of which three came from Paris, one from New Orleans, one from Canada, four from San Salvador, one from Monaco, one from Italy, and others from New York. The whole of the designs were exhibited in a public gallery.

While one may admit freely that the hotels in Salvador are conducted for the most part upon infinitely better lines than are those in the neighbouring Republic of Guatemala—which, indeed, may be pronounced, without undue harshness, as possessing about the worst in Central America—the Salvadorean hostelries are not as yet absolutely perfect. In this regard, however, it is only fair to remember the extreme difficulties which the proprietors are called upon to face. The servant problem is, perhaps, the hardest of all, and there is hardly one, among the many hotel managers of various nationalities with whom I discussed matters, but who confessed to me that he was weary to death of his efforts to conduct his business with the aid of native domestics. I have myself upon different occasions been witness to the curiously perverse nature of some of these servants; when, like others, I have been travelling through or resident in the interior of the country, I have likewise observed their spirit of robust independence.

Where the cost of living is so low, and the question of supply and demand in regard to domestic service is so overwhelmingly in favour of the latter, anything like efficient service is practically impossible to find. The domestic servants in Salvador are recruited almost entirely from among the Indians; and while these latter are by no means lacking in intelligence, and can by kind treatment be won to some degree of fidelity, they are naturally slow, and even indolent, while an extreme sensitiveness and spirit of resentment at once asserts itself should blame or abuse be offered by the employer. Under such circumstances, or even for less provocation, the domestic will forthwith take leave, and even forfeit the few shillings in wages that may be due. Usually, however, the wages question is in favour of the servant, since payment has probably been anticipated, and the domestic is the debtor, and not the creditor, of the master. This hold, therefore, is a somewhat feeble one to depend upon, and in nine cases out of ten fails to apply.

There are a number of European and native families who possess the traditional "treasure" in the person of an old and faithful retainer; but not infrequently the history of such "treasure," when probed, shows that the employer is over-indulgent, being fearful of losing the much-prized services of the domestic in question, permits all kinds of privileges, and submits to all sorts of exactions, in order to preserve peace in the household. Perhaps it may be good policy to do so; but I have witnessed instances of downright tyranny upon the part of some native servants—not by any means confined to Salvador—which, in my opinion at least, could never have been warranted, and never should have been condoned, no matter how valuable the services rendered may have been. The absolute helplessness of the lady of the house may be accepted as some excuse, but peace may be purchased at too high a price, and in the instances which I have in mind I fancy such was the case. But, then, I was not personally concerned in the results, and therefore my judgment may be at fault, and even regarded as valueless.

Salvador seems to be a particularly favourite visiting-place with itinerant theatrical companies. All the year round, practically, a theatrical troupe of some kind may be found touring the country, which is usually included, with Guatemala, Panama, and Costa Rica, in the "Central American" road programme. As a general rule, however, the companies are of a somewhat indifferent quality—poor Italians and Spaniards, whose precarious existence often excites commiseration from even the hard-hearted. It is pitiable to see them upon occasions moving from State to State and from town to town—lean, hungry, dirty, and depressed in spirits, as they well may be; women and children, many of the latter being born on the road, having to undergo very great physical privations and serious personal inconveniences. The men, probably more habituated to the roughness of life, mostly accept their hard lot with philosophy and resignation; but it is cruelly severe upon the women and little children. The public of Salvador are somewhat capricious in their support of the different theatrical companies, and at times the playhouses are practically empty, and even the cheaper portions deserted.

It was in the month of January, 1910, that the City of San Salvador lost its handsome Teatro Nacional through fire—a disaster which was caused, it being charged, by incendiarism, although this has never been proved. There is at present but one other place of entertainment—El Teatro Moderno, belonging to the same proprietary, and which is but a large-sized barn, capable of accommodating at the most some 200 people. It was used originally for cinematograph exhibitions, which, by-the-by, with all Latin-Americans would seem to be a very popular and profitable form of entertainment. The place is structurally fit for no other sort of performance, but is now perforce being utilized for dramatic and musical representations.

In few cities of its size will be found a larger number of Societies than San Salvador possesses, these associations being representative not only of various classes of organized labour, but of literature, music, art, religion, science, and even insurance. Among those which have their headquarters in the Capital are—"Sociedad Unión Nacional de Amigos," "Sociedad Estudiantil Minerva," "Sociedad Carlos F. Dárdano," "Sociedad de Medicina Emilio Alvarez," "Academia de Ciencias, Letras y Artes de El Salvador," "Sociedad Pedagógica Francisco Menéndez," "Sociedad de Artesanos La Concordia," "Sociedad de Obreros Gerado Barrios," "Sociedad La Buena Prensa," "Sociedad de Artesanos del Salvador," "Sociedad Co-operativa El Ahorro," "Sociedad Nacional de Agricultura," "Logia Masónica."

The Provinces have also their respective associations, many possessing a long and influential subscription list; among the most prominent may be mentioned: "Sociedad de Obreros" and "Sociedad literaria José Cecilio del Valle," both having their headquarters in Santa Ana; "Sociedad de Obreros El Porvenir," in Santa Tecla; "Sociedad de Obreros Rafael Campo," at Sonsonate; "Club Unionista," at Ahuachapán; "Sociedad de Obreros" and "Logia Masónica," at Cojutepeque; "Sociedad de Obreros," at Sensuntapeque; and "Sociedad La Protección," at Zacatecoluca.

Tho principal educational establishments of the Republic are located in the Capital, and comprise the National University, of which Dr. Hermógenes Alvarado is the Deacon and Dr. Adrián García is the Secretary; the National Institute, of which Dr. Darío González is the Director; the National Library, of which Don Francisco Gavidia is the Director; and the Municipal Library, of which Dr. Don José Dols Corpeño is the Director. There are in addition the Astronomical and Meteorological Observatory, directed by Dr. Santiago I. Barberena, and the Museum and Botanical Gardens, both under the direction of Dr. David J. Guzmán.