History of New Brunswick

by Peter Fisher

Having, in the preceding pages, given a brief general description of New-Brunswick, I shall now proceed to give a short sketch of each County, comprising a view of the face of the country, principal streams, settlements, produce, &c. And as five of them lie along the river St. John, I shall begin at the head of that river, and follow it to its exit into the Bay of Fundy. The three remaining counties will be noticed afterwards. Following this method, (which by keeping the counties and parishes distinct, will give the reader a clearer knowledge of the country than a more elaborate account, where names and situations are mentioned without method, and described promiscuously) I shall confine myself to brevity, at the same time endeavouring to avoid obscurity; and have to lament that the want of correct information prevents me from making this part of the work as complete as I could wish.

SECTION I.

York.

This County commences at the Canada line, which bounds it on the north-west. The County of Northumberland bounds it on the north-east, on the south-east it adjoins Sunbury, and on the south-west Charlotte, and contains 10,972 inhabitants.

Beginning at the northern and uppermost part of the county, and proceeding down the main river St. John, the first settlement is Madawaska, situated between the Grand Falls and the Madawaska river, which falls into the St. John at the upper part of the settlement. The inhabitants are the descendants of the old Acadians, who were settled on different parts of the river St. John, and who on the arrival of the English moved up to this place, where, being joined by others from Canada, they formed this settlement distinct from the English, and have ever since been quiet subjects, and well affected to the British Government. Madawaska is about midway between Fredericton and Quebec, and is in a flourishing state. It has a Romish Chapel, where the rites and ceremonies of that religion are duly performed by a Missionary from Canada, who likewise, with the assistance of one or two leading persons regulates the internal police of the settlement by settling disputes, keeping the peace, &c. and so successful have they been that although there are neither lawyers or magistrates in the place, the Courts of Justice have had but little trouble from that quarter. The land along the margin of the river is in general good, level, and unbroken; but owing to its northern situation it is unfavourable to Indian corn; but wheat, oats, grass, &c. flourish there in great perfection. The inhabitants are all farmers, and generally raise more than they can consume, having a surplus of grain to sell to traders in the settlement or to take to Fredericton. Their manners and habits being simple, they expend but little on luxuries. Their women manufacture a coarse cloth and kerseys sufficient for their own consumption. The men are about the middle size, generally spare built and active; the women, on the contrary, are very stout and short. They are very lively and hospitable, but very slovenly in their houses and cookery. In short, they appear a different race from the English. A stranger going above the Falls, finds himself suddenly among a new race of people, different in their language, religion, habitations, and manners.

Below this settlement the country is a wilderness for some distance, comprising the lands adjoining and below the Grand Falls.

The isthmus formed by the bend of the river at the Grand Falls, was formerly cleared by the troops stationed at that post. This spot was selected at the first settlement of the Province for a military station. It served not only as a security for the settlers at that period, when the country was a total wilderness and almost impassable, being without roads or habitations, but also connected and secured the communication with Canada. Barracks, &c. were constructed and troops stationed at this place for a number of years. The works are at present in ruins; although it is no doubt one of the first interior positions in the Province. This place forms one of the great features of New-Brunswick. Here the navigation of the great river St. John is totally obstructed, and the upper part of the country disjoined from the seaboard. This points out the great importance of its situation, as the great connecting point and centre for the intercourse and trade of the upper country, whenever it becomes fully settled. Its situation will no doubt soon attract a settlement, and in process of time a town will arise, which will be the depot for goods from the seaboard, where they will be exchanged for the produce of the upper part of the country. A canal or tunnel cut through the isthmus, will probably follow. This would be of the utmost advantage to the Province, by connecting the navigation and developing the resources of the upper country, which are said to be almost inexhaustible. The distance to cut would be nearly one hundred rods. The isthmus being ninety rods across, from bank to bank, the descent of the water would be nearly half an inch to a foot.

Descending the St. John seven miles below the falls, it receives the Salmon river, a considerable stream from the east, and eleven miles farther the Restook falls into it from the westward. This is a fine river, running in a very crooked direction through a fine country abounding in excellent land and well stored with timber of the first quality. It makes to the southwest and has been explored upwards of one hundred miles, where it continues of a good width. It is supposed to be of great length and is claimed by the United States, although some of the British settlers have lately commenced establishing themselves on the river and are making very free with the pine. Three miles below the Restook, the Tobique, named for its red pines, brings its tribute to the St. John. This is another considerable river, being upwards of two hundred miles in length. Its banks to a good distance back have been covered with pines of the finest growth, which have been mostly cut off. The soil in the pine districts is not favorable for farming pursuits, but would require much labor to bring it to a state fit for cultivation. There are, however, some good Islands in the course of the river, and strips of rich land intermixed with the pine districts, and the lands adjoining the Tobique lying along the banks of the Saint John are of the finest quality; and where cultivated produce the most abundant crops. A district comprising ten miles extending along the river Saint John and embracing both sides of the Tobique is reserved for the Indians. This tract is certainly not inferior to any land in the Province, and it is a pity it should remain in its present unimproved state. The Indians have only a small clearing at the mouth of the Tobique, where they have a hut which is reserved as a Chapel, and where one or two Indians generally sit down as they term it, to watch a small crop, and keep possession.

After the peace with America in 1814, a number of disbanded, men of the 8th, 98th, and 104th regiments, and of the West-India Rangers and New-Brunswick Fencibles, were settled on this part of the river Saint John, chiefly between the military post of Presqu-Isle and the Indian reserve. Many of these settlers have made good improvements, and have already secured a comfortable independency. The wilderness has been converted into cultivated fields, covered with habitations; and the district formed into a Parish, and named after his Royal Highness the late Duke of Kent.—It extends on both sides of the river from the Grand Falls to the Parish of Wakefield. The land is of a superior quality, covered with a variety of timber of the tallest growth, and unincumbered with much undergrowth; the trees standing in most places so far apart, that a man on horse-back would be but seldom incommoded by them. This is of great advantage to the settler, as it relieves him from the great labor of clearing away the under brush, which is so troublesome in some parts of the country. Nor is this fine tract of land confined to the margin of the river, but extends back, and is found in many places to improve as you advance into the interior. The United States line approaches the river St. John within a few miles along this Parish, and they have a township laid out, embracing Mars Hill before described. It is to be regretted that many of the settlers in this Parish having formerly been accustomed to the free use of spirituous liquors, find the temptation revived by the great introduction of them by the lumber speculators, who in many instances are drawing the settlers from their domestic habits, to which they began to be accustomed, to a dissipated mode of living, to the loss of their morals and property.

Descending the Saint John, which every few miles receives the tribute of some considerable creek or river, we arrive at the Presqu-Isle. This was formerly a military post; Barracks, &c. having been erected at this place shortly after the American revolution sufficient to accommodate three companies of foot, which are now in ruins. A few soldiers were stationed here till 1822, since which period the place has been totally abandoned as a military station. The bank at this place is high and the spot where the Barracks stood very pleasant, commanding a fine view of the adjacent country, having a beautiful Island directly in front. To a contemplative mind this spot must be interesting when he reflects that the soldiers who forced their way from Fredericton through the wilderness to construct these works, have fallen by the sword and disease; that the men who projected them, as well as those who superintended their construction, are mouldering in their graves—that the conductors of the boats which transported the supplies are now no more—and that the boats are now in view from the site of the Barracks lying in the bushes and falling gradually to pieces.—If he is an old settler, this must have past within his memory, and may teach him the instability of all human affairs. Eight miles below the Presqu-Isle a stream called the Pekagomique falls into the Saint John on the eastern side. The land on this stream is very good, and a settlement is begun a few miles from its mouth, it has good mills and is well stored with timber. There are several other streams in the Parish of Wakefield, which extends on both sides of the river, till it joins Woodstock on the western and Northampton on the eastern side about sixty-three miles above Fredericton. It is a flourishing Parish, the land being of a good quality, the farms along the river are improving, and back settlements forming.