MELVILLE ISLAND is of considerable size, and forms the western side of Van Diemen's Gulf; its greatest length from Cape Van Diemen to Cape Keith being seventy-two miles, and its greatest breadth thirty-eight miles; its circumference is two hundred miles.
We did not land on any part of it, excepting in the entrance of Apsley Strait, at Luxmoore Head (latitude 11 degrees 21 minutes, longitude 130 degrees 22 minutes) from which we were driven by the natives. It appeared fertile and more elevated than the coast to the eastward, and to possess several good harbours, particularly Apsley Strait, besides several bays on its north coast; and from the appearance of the land on its east side, and the extent and abrupt shape of the hills, it is probable that there may be a port there also. BRENTON BAY is the mouth of a small inlet, which may probably prove to be a fresh-water stream; and the bottom of LETHBRIDGE BAY appeared likely to yield one also. The hills and coast are wooded to the brink of the cliffs and sandy beaches that vary the northern shores of Melville Island. The most unproductive part appeared to be the narrow strip that extends towards Cape Van Diemen. On either side of the point, near Karslake Island, is a bay, and at the bottom of each there is an opening in the land, like those of Brenton and Lethbridge Bays.
The western trend of CAPE VAN DIEMEN is in latitude 11 degrees 8 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds. The coast to the south-east of the cape is formed by a range of cliffs, extending uninterruptedly for seven miles, of a most remarkable white appearance, whiter even than the usual colour of the pipe-clay cliffs to the eastward. Cape Van Diemen is a low sandy point, with a shoal spit projecting from it for four miles, within half a mile of the extremity of which we had no bottom with ten fathoms: from this a very considerable shoal (MERMAID'S SHOAL) extends to the westward and south-westward for seventeen miles; and, curving round to PIPER'S HEAD, forms the northern limit of the entrance to Apsley Strait: its western edge is rather steep; we coasted along it, and had overfalls between ten and four fathoms near its edge. It is not only possible, but very likely, that there are channels through it, but the most direct channel is round its south side, across the bar, on which there is (at low water) five fathoms. To sail into APSLEY STRAIT by this channel, if coming from the westward, steer in on the parallel of 11 degrees 15 minutes, until the northern part of Bathurst Island is seen: when the western trend of the island bears South, you will be abreast of the west extremity of the shoal off Cape Van Diemen. Steering on, you will see Piper's Head, a cliffy point, forming the north entrance to the strait, which must be kept upon the bearing of East by North, until the low, sandy, south point of the strait's entrance* is in a line with the summit of LUXMOORE HEAD, a remarkable flat-topped hill on the eastern side of the strait, bearing South 59 degrees East. Then steer East by South, keeping the lead going, and hauling to the north if the soundings are less than seven fathoms, until the strait is opened bearing South-East by South, when you may haul in for Luxmoore Head, and anchor at will.
(*Footnote. Point Brace of Captain Bremer.)
The narrowest part of the strait is where the low, sandy extremity, Point Brace, bears South 40 degrees East; the channel then is from seventeen to eighteen fathoms deep, and shoals suddenly on its south, but gradually on its north side: it is about a mile and a half wide.
APSLEY STRAIT is forty miles long, and from one to three broad; the widest part being at the north end: the southern end, for five or six miles from the outlet, is very rocky; the south entrance is in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes; the flood sets to the southward, and the ebb, from Van Diemen's Gulf out of Clarence Strait, runs through the strait to the north, which must cause many shoals off the south entrance; the depth is generally from ten to thirteen fathoms, but is very irregular towards the south end; at low water many parts are dry, which leave the channels very intricate. We passed over it at high water without knowing our danger, for the stream of the tide carried us through the deepest part of the channel.
BATHURST ISLAND is from thirty to thirty-three miles in extent, having a circumference of a hundred and twenty miles. GORDON BAY, on its western side, affords a good shelter in the easterly monsoon; it is ten miles wide, and six deep, and terminated by PORT HURD, the entrance to which is fronted by a bar, having twelve or fourteen feet on it at low water. Near the south-western head of the bay two projecting cliffy points (Twin Cliffs) terminate a sandy bay, from which wood and, probably, water may be obtained. PORT HURD, at the bottom of Gordon Bay, in latitude 11 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds, is a mere salt-water inlet, running up in a South-East direction for eight miles; it then separates into two creeks that wind under each side of a wooded hill; the entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, and formed by two low points. At the back of the port are some wooded hills; one of them, Mount Hurd, kept in the opening between the two points of entrance, is the mark for the deepest part of the bar. When within the entrance the port opens, and forms a basin two miles and a quarter broad, after which it narrows and runs up at from half to a quarter of a mile wide, with a channel four and five fathoms deep.
The country here is thickly wooded, but very low, excepting a few ranges of hills that may rise to the height of two hundred feet. The south side of Bathurst Island has no sinuosities.
Near CAPE FOURCROY the coast is formed by sandhills: but, for the next fifteen miles, it is low and backed by wooded hills.