Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia — Vol. 2 / Performed between the years 1818 and 1822

by Philip Parker King

To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay twelve miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted by SIR GRAHAM MOORE'S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long, and low, excepting at the east end, where there is a flat-topped hill; there is also another remarkable summit on a smaller island, to the north of the principal island.

At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east entrance of VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and the easternmost of the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this space, which is nearly three miles wide, is much occupied by rocks, so that it is contracted to the width of little more than half a mile.

The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the innermost of which commences at eight miles to the westward of Cape Talbot, and extends along Sir Graham Moore's Islands to Mary Island.

The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape, and extends to the westward, embracing JONES' ISLAND (in latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and the Eclipse Isles. The passage is from three and a half to five miles wide, and is deep and free from danger. The bottom is rocky until within five miles of the Eclipse Islands, when good anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms, upon a muddy bottom.

The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks to the eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about half a mile. In entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to pass round Middle Rock, and upon bringing the peaked summit of Jar Island, at the bottom of the port, between it and Long Rocks, bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer directly for Jar Island, until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you may haul close round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have passed the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the bay. There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock; but it is too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the channels with great strength; with the flood-tide there is no danger, as the stream will carry a vessel through the deepest part; with the ebb-tide, however, it should not be attempted.

The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of CAPE BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and a half wide, and quite free from danger. The approach to it, between TROUGHTON ISLAND (latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11 minutes) and the reefs in the offing, is six miles wide, and probably quite safe. We did not ascertain the existence of a channel on the east side of the island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so, would be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land near it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good mark for the port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds and longitude 126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.

Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten broad; it offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky, and should not be approached nearer than a mile; but the western shore is steep to, and may be passed very close: on this side the port there are many coves and bays fit for any purposes. The most secure anchorage is in the centre of the bay, where there is from seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze has free access: but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be found at the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the eastern entrance, at a quarter past nine o'clock; the tide rises about six feet.

JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it the channel is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14 degrees 7 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40 seconds.

The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula, the extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of this land is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three miles from the shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold approach. The reef commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends round to Point Gibson, where it terminates. This part of the coast is fronted by extensive reefs, which render the approach to it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the northward of the cape there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend in an east and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45 seconds, is narrow, and not more than five or six miles broad.

There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape, that extends in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty miles; and about from three to five miles broad. The water breaks on many parts of it. Its north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles West 3/4 North from Troughton Island: in this space the sea is quite clear, and from sixteen to twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the channel, between the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it is more than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three fathoms deep.