Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a mangrove bight, with several openings communicating with a large lagoon, or body of water, at the base of a small range of hills. The bight is shoal and thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence the coast extends to the South-West by West, fronted by mangroves for about forty miles, and then for about sixteen miles South-West to the entrance of Curlew River.
Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a space of eighty-five miles, there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from the coast, separated from each other by channels, generally navigable, between one to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be found among these islands, for the sea cannot fail of being smooth in the strongest winds. The depth among these islands is from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally of gravel or sand.
CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a creek running through a low country for three miles; its banks are overrun with mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever for vessels to visit it. The country behind is low, and, at spring tides, or during the rainy season, is inundated.
The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance of thirteen miles, and with the same barren character for twenty miles further, forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and THEVENARD ISLES are low and sandy; they were seen by us at a considerable distance.
BARROW'S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circumference, is of moderate height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren appearance. A considerable reef extends towards the main from its south-east side, where there is also a small islet: on the north-east side are three islets; the two outermost of which are low and rocky. The west coast of Barrow's Island was seen by the French, who thought it was part of the main; they named its north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE POIVRE. At ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French charts have assigned a position to a reef: and four miles North 10 degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed by us, since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to see them if they do exist; of which, from the account of the French, there can be but little doubt.
LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not any vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in their chart. From M. de Freycinet's account, the two latter islands were seen at different times; and since Trimouille Island has a reef extending for five miles from its north-western extremity, as Hermite Island is described to have, there seems to be good reason to suppose that there is but one; had there been two, we should have seen it on passing this part in 1822.*
(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no doubt in my mind that Barrow's Island, and Lowendal and Trimouille Islands (which the French called the Montebello Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The latitude and description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises the doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not rare, of which many proofs might be found, by comparing the situations of places formerly determined with their position on the charts of the present time. Many old navigators were not very particular; and never gave the error of their account upon arriving at their destined port, either from shame or from carelessness and indifference.
A reef of rocks is said to exist in latitude 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds. They were seen by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the command of a merchant brig, as appears by an account published in the Sydney Gazette.
EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it is thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west Cape and Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side is formed by a very low coast, the particulars of which were not distinguished, for it is lined by an intricate cluster of islands that we could not, having but one anchor, penetrate among. In the entrance is Muiron Island, and two others, h and i; and within the gulf they are too numerous to distinguish: all the outer ones have been assigned correct positions to, as have all between Exmouth Gulf and Dampier's Archipelago. The islets y and z are the outer ones of the group; between which and the western shore there is a space of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on a sandy bottom. Under the western shore, which is the deepest, there are some bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom is generally very rocky. In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest, the shore is more sinuous, and in the bay there is good anchorage in three and four fathoms, mud. Here the gulf is twelve miles across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but the eastern side is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and narrows very much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet, or, as has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with the sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western side of the gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates Island that has puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It perfectly answers the descriptions that have been given; and the only thing against it is the longitude; but this, like that of the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended to.