Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia — Vol. 2 / Performed between the years 1818 and 1822

by Philip Parker King

BY MR. ALLAN CUNNINGHAM,
COLLECTOR TO THE ROYAL GARDENS AT KEW.

It having been resolved by the British Government to employ a colonial vessel from the settlement of Port Jackson in New South Wales, for the purpose of exploring the whole of the North-western Coasts of New Holland, and that portion of the North Coast, not seen by that able navigator, the late Captain Flinders; a most favourable opportunity was thereby afforded for a partial examination of the plants of those unknown shores, with a view of adding to our progressively augmenting knowledge of the very interesting Flora of this southern continent.

Having materially profited by a twelvemonth's previous residence in New South Wales, acquainting myself with the characters (and principal peculiarities of structure) of many genera of plants absolutely proper to Terra Australis; and particularly in that period, throughout the progress of a long and very interesting journey in the interior, to the westward of Port Jackson, I was most happy and desirous to obey an instruction I received from the Right Honourable Sir Joseph Banks, on behalf of the Government, directing me to place myself under the orders of Captain P.P. King, to whom the execution of this important service had been intrusted, and to accompany him to those particular coasts, destined for his investigation, in order to form and prepare such collections of their vegetation, for the use of His Majesty's gardens at Kew, as circumstances, and the particular season of the year proper for visiting those shores, might afford me. My very limited knowledge of the plants of that continent, especially of genera, that form a striking feature in its Flora, was moreover essentially improved during our stay at King George's Sound on the South-west Coast, previous to our arrival upon the North-west Coast, at the commencement of the first voyage of His Majesty's cutter the Mermaid.

Although the reader may inform himself, from Captain King's relation of the several voyages, of the opportunities that were afforded me in forming my collections of plants, still it appears necessary, in this place, to take a general retrospective view of those parts of the coasts under examination, whereon my researches were made, adverting, at the same time, to the prevalent unfavourable seasons for flowering plants, during which it should seem the survey of the North-west Coast could alone be effected with safety.

During the progress of the survey of the southern extreme of the North-west Coast (at which part Captain King commenced his examinations, in 1818) I landed in Exmouth Gulf, then upon one of the islands of Dampier's Archipelago, at the Intercourse Islands, and on Malus Island; but the results of these several excursions (in some of which ample time was afforded me) did by no means answer my expectations; herbaceous plants being for the most part dead, and the few (hard woody) shrubs scarcely bearing fructification: disadvantages arising, in fact, from the extreme barrenness of the land, and more particularly from the prevalent droughts of the season, previous to the change of the monsoon, which soon afterwards took place, obliging us to quit the North-west Coast altogether; the remaining periods of the voyage being employed in the examination of certain parts of the North Coast.

We again reached the North-west Coast, in the month of September of the following year, resuming the survey at its northern extremity, under the most flattering views, and with a favourable season for the prosecution of that primary object of the voyage. Between the meridians of 125 and 129 degrees, on the parallel of 14 degrees, although a large proportion of the vegetation was for the most part destroyed by the long established droughts, the number of specimens of plants bearing fructification, gathered at Port Keats, Vansittart Bay, Port Warrender, and especially in Cambridge Gulf (where we spent ten days) was nevertheless considerable and highly interesting, belonging, however, almost wholly to established genera of which Grevillea and Acacia were the most striking. The breaking up of the monsoon at length again obliged Captain King to close his examination of the coast for that season, to which we, however, returned in September, 1820, continuing the survey westerly from the point at which we had left those shores the preceding year. I had very eligible opportunities of landing upon the shores of Montagu Sound, Capstan Island, Cape Pond, York Sound, especially at the head of Hunter's River, at Brunswick Bay, and in Careening Bay, Port Nelson; at which several parts the collections formed were very important, but not extensive.

Our encampment on the shore of the latter bay, during the repair of the vessel, enabled me to examine the country around, to the distance of four or five miles; but it being at the height of the dry season, comparatively few flowering plants were detected, and no herbaceous plants of importance. Our prolonged stay there also enabled me to form some idea of the Flora of its shores and neighbouring country, from which I gathered materials for comparison with the vegetation of Endeavour River, situated at the eastern extreme of its parallel on the opposite shore of the continent: the identity of certain species on either coast, together with the inference drawn therefrom, will appear stated, towards the close of this general notice. Very few new genera were the fruits of this third voyage, but many undescribed plants of old genera were discovered, and with those that are frequent on the North Coast, and tropical shores of New South Wales, some were remarked that were originally discovered on the South Coast. The period again arrived, that rendered it necessary to depart from the coast, independent of the leaky state of our vessel, which materially hastened our return to Port Jackson, when the cutter was considered wholly unfit for a fourth voyage, in which the complete survey of the north-west, and the examination of the line of west coasts were contemplated. To effect this important service, the colonial government purchased a brig, subsequently named the Bathurst, and I again accompanied Captain King from Port Jackson, in May, 1821, to those parts of the coasts then remaining unexplored, at which we arrived at the close of July. Our very limited stay on those shores, however, was at that season wherein all vegetation was suffering under the excess of drought; I had nevertheless the means afforded me of ascertaining the general identity of the plants of Prince Regent's River, Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth (portions of the coast explored in the voyage) and other parts in the vicinity, that were examined the preceding year, at a like season, but under circumstances much more favourable. Upon our return to the North-west Coast from the Mauritius, early in 1822, the only part visited was Cygnet Bay, situate about 2 1/2 degrees to the south-west of the last-mentioned sound, and it happening at a season when some rain had fallen, I met with several plants in an abundant flowering state, of species, however, in part originally discovered upon other coasts, and described by Mr. Brown, during the Investigator's voyage.

Of the West Coast (properly so denominated) which was seen during the Bathurst's voyage, very little can be said in reference to its vegetable productions, and most probably nothing can be here advanced, tending to augment our very scanty knowledge of its Flora, acquired in part long since, through the medium of the celebrated navigator, Dampier, but more especially by the botanists accompanying Captain Baudin's voyage. I had no opportunity of examining any part of the main, during our run northerly along its extensive shore, but I landed on Rottnest Island, and repeatedly visited the northern extremity of Dirk Hartog's Island, off Shark's Bay, where I gathered, under every discouragement of season, some of the most important portions of its rich vegetation; in many instances, however, in very imperfect conditions of fructification. Its general features led me decidedly to assimilate it to the striking character of the botany of the South Coast; a characteristic of which it is more than probable the mainland largely partakes, if we may draw an inference from its aspect at widely distant parts.

Upon those portions of the North Coast, which were chiefly surveyed during the Mermaid's first voyage, at a period immediately subsequent to the season of the rains, I had very favourable opportunities of increasing my collections upon the Goulburn Islands, Ports Essington and Raffles, Croker's Island, Mount-Norris Bay, and on the shores of Van Diemen's Gulf; and among many described species, discovered formerly in the great Gulf of Carpentaria, there were several most interesting new plants. With a view towards an entire completion of the survey of the several coasts of the continent, that part of New South Wales within the tropic, north of Cape Bedford, which was not seen by Captain Cook, entered into the plans of the Mermaid's second voyage; and it was highly gratifying to my feelings to reflect that it was reserved for me to complete several specimens discovered formerly in imperfect states by those eminent naturalists who accompanied the above great circumnavigator, in 1770, desiderata, that have been wanting ever since this period of their discovery; no mediums of communication with those particular parts of the coast having presented themselves.

The aggregate of the several collections that have been formed during the progress of the four voyages under the general circumstances above briefly referred to, and which, as constituting a small Herbarium, will be thus collectively spoken of in the following remarks, does not exceed one thousand three hundred species of Phaenogamous plants; of these five hundred and twenty are already described by authors, the other portion being in part unpublished species, previously discovered on other coasts of Terra Australis, and in part absolutely new, referable, however, mostly to well defined genera. Of Cryptogamous plants, there are but few species, and of these, or parasitical Orchideae, none have been detected in these voyages in addition to those already described: a circumstance, that with respect to the North-west Coast can reasonably be accounted for, from the non-existence of primary mountains, or land above very moderate elevation; by the absence of lofty dense forests (points of character necessary to that permanency of atmospheric moisture, which constitutes an essential requisite to the existence of almost the whole of these tribes): and the consequent general exposure to the sun of those arid shores.