| Centigrade | Reaumur | Fahrenheit |
| 30 | 24.- | 86.- |
| 31 | 24.8 | 87.8 |
| 32 | 25.6 | 89.6 |
| 33 | 26.4 | 91.4 |
| 34 | 27.2 | 93.2 |
| 35 | 28.- | 95.- |
| 36 | 28.8 | 96.8 |
| 37 | 29.6 | 98.6 |
| 38 | 30.4 | 100.4 |
| 39 | 31.2 | 102.2 |
| 40 | 32.- | 104.- |
| 41 | 32.8 | 105.8 |
| 42 | 33.6 | 107.6 |
| 43 | 34.4 | 109.4 |
| 44 | 35.2 | 111.2 |
| 45 | 36.- | 113.- |
| 46 | 36.8 | 114.8 |
THE USE OF TOO MUCH DYE
STREAKS IN DYEING
A fault with amateur dyers is that they often use a great deal more dye than is really needed. By this, it is not meant, that too much solution is used, but too much of the actual colouring matter. One ten cent package of dye will dye a pound of material; some fabrics, such as a light weight silk run about sixteen yards to the pound. To avoid any waste of dye, it is a good plan to prepare a concentrated solution in a small pan and use it with care and economy. Do not add it all at once to the water in the large vessel, but rather make a weak bath into which the piece is put, after having been rinsed in clear water and squeezed out. When the colour is all taken up from the bath, remove the fabric and add more of the concentrated solution. Do this several times rather than impatiently pour in the whole strength; when finally the desired intensity of colour is reached, it will be found that the dyes are faster and a great deal less colour will have been used than would have been the case otherwise. If careful judgment has been used, the water will be practically clear at the end of the proceedings. Another good reason for not using too strong a bath is that with a weaker solution it is much easier to avoid the streaks that annoy the inexperienced dyer. The use of too small a vessel is a frequent cause of uneven dyeing; the material should literally swim in the tub so that no dye can possibly settle in the folds, and for this same reason it is essential to keep the goods stirred the whole time they are in the dye.
RINSING
After the material has been removed from the dye-bath, it should be rinsed very thoroughly and dried. A large piece can be quickly dried when one knows how. Do not wring it on any account or the wax will be broken in a thousand pieces. Old sheets and towels can be requisitioned with good effect; wrap the rinsed material in these to absorb the heaviest of the moisture and to prevent dripping. If the material is allowed to drain and has not been rinsed properly, the appearance of the dreaded streaks will at once show the reason why the rinsing part of the process is emphasized. When thus “blotted” the material will soon dry when hung over a waxed non-absorbent clothesline; an unwaxed line will sometimes leave a mark where the fabric has touched it.
REWAXING
The material should be thoroughly dry before the second waxing is applied. If an attempt is made to do it while the goods are still damp, it will be found that the wax does not penetrate so well, and consequently, in the second dipping the dye will seep in through the back and spoil the colour which the wax was intended to preserve.
“CRACKLE”
A crackle effect can be produced all over the design by crushing the fabric, more or less gently, according to the amount of colour that one wishes to allow to penetrate, just before the last dipping. A local crackle can be obtained similarly, by crushing only those parts where a broken-up surface to the design, is required.