Monday, Sept. 2.—I set off soon after 3½ with an old vetturino, who rather displeased me last night in making his bargain, by his flattering way; but I found him a nice old man, and very civil. We got to Bosketto, on the banks of the Adige (which indeed we followed all day), at 7¼. I said mass and breakfasted. Then we went on to dine at a single house, called Ospitaletto. We stayed from 12 to 2; I wrote two letters. We then started and got to Verona at 4, to the Hotel di Londra. I took a laquais de place, and walked to Count Persico's house. I was sorry to find him in the country. Then to the Jesuit Noviciate, where I thought I might possibly find Connolly. The Superior showed me Padre Odescalchi's room, where he passed his noviciate. I recommended myself to his prayers. I had been reading on the road his memoirs, given me at Louvain. The Superior promised to recommend England. I went then to the cathedral, and the Bishop being out, I saw the Vicario, who kindly promised to speak for me to the Bishop. I then went into the cathedral, where there was a brilliant illumination, and a most solemn benediction, and then a litany before the altar of the Blessed Virgin, which reminded me of the holy litanies of Rome. I have seen nothing like this on the Continent, nor have I seen a town so full of respectable clergy in every part. Came home and to bed at 8½.
Tuesday, Sept. 3rd.—Started at 4 with my new vetturino, who cheated me as usual, but was civil. It rained almost all day. I said mass at a place called Montebello, and got to Vicenza to dine at 11½. Then started for Padua with a new vetturino, and had for company an old and a young Roman priest. The old one was Bighi, a well-known professor, who taught Dr. Wiseman and S. Sharples, &c., and was full of kindness to me. I talked myself almost hoarse with him. They stopped at Padua. I went on railroad to Venice. I sat by a priest of Illyricum of the scuole pie of St. Joseph Calasanctius; but what was wonderful was my being in the midst of Mrs. Neville and her family, whom Mrs. Rio desired me to see, coming back from a visit to Vicenza. We kept together all across the Sayburne, and made a great acquaintance. I got into a gondola, and had to go a great round to put down another young man, who had already engaged it. I had a great battle about my fare, and for a wonder I conquered. I waited a little, having my chocolate, when Phillipps and all came in, and we made a happy meeting, giving an account of our respective travels.
Wednesday, Sept. 4th.—I went at 7 to say mass at San Marco, but was obliged to wait till 8, as they are very strict here not to allow a priest to mass without leave from the Patriarch, except the first day, when, as to me, leave is given. I breakfasted at a cafe, then went with Phillipps to St. Georgio dei Greci, and heard a high mass of the schismatic Greeks, of whom there is a colony at Venice; the occasion was the octave of the Assumption, old style. The mass was all celebrated behind a close screen; which is open part of the time, but not during the most solemn part. After the consecration, the host and chalice are carried outside this screen in procession, and presented for adoration; one man before us was making his prostrations all the time. The priests had chasubles, hanging evenly all round to near the ankles; they lifted them to use their hands; there is no musical instrument, but singing all the time. I then went to the Cancellaria to get my licence to say mass, and then to Mrs. Neville at the Corte dell' Albero. She soon after took me to the Armenian College, where the examinations were just finished. There are eighteen scholars, with two priests over them, in an old grand palace of a ruined family of Pesaro. The vicario and several others from the island were there. We talked much about England. I came to dinner at the Tavola, returned at 4, Then we went to the Island of St. Lazzaro, to see Padre Pasquale and the Archbishop Sutrio Somal (as the name sounds), great friends of Phillipps at Rome in 1831, and of mine, too. When we came back. I went in a gondola to Mrs. Neville, and back to tea.
Tuesday, Sept. 5.—This being the feast of St. Lorenzo Giustiniani, I went out at 6¾ to find the church where his body is laid. He died in the very hotel where we are. The church I went to in a gondola in rain to St. Pietro at Castello—the ancient patriarchal church—and said mass at the high altar, where he lies. I walked back in rain, without umbrella, as I lost mine yesterday. I bought another. At 12, Padre Raffaelle, an Armenian priest, Mrs. Neville's confessor, to whom she introduced me yesterday, called and took me to the patriarch, Cardinal Monico, who received most graciously my propositions for England. I am to call again with the Phillippses on Saturday, and get something more exactly settled about the prayers; we then went across the Great Canal to the Del Redentore, where is a convent of eighty Capuchins. The church is reckoned a chef d'oeuvre of Palladio, built ex voto by the Republic, after a plague. We saw the guardian, who is also provincial; he learned our want, and promised for his own house and ten others of the province. I came back to dinner. A Greek priest whom Phillipps got acquainted with the other day, came to dine with us, and sat till 9. His conversation was very interesting as showing the ideas of the Greeks about the Roman Church, and their doctrines on many points varying from ours. What a terrible evil is that of separation of nearly half of Christendom! The greater reasons to hasten the reunion of England, that we may draw the others.
Friday, Sept. 6.—The two Neville boys came with me to St. Marco, and served my mass, as their mother had desired. After breakfast, I called on Mrs. Neville, who was not up, then went to Palazzo Pasaro, to Padre Raffaelle. He came with me first to the Franciscans; the guardian promised for his house of fifty, and for three or four at some distance from him. Then to the Dominicans, who are fifteen, a new establishment a year old. Then to the Jesuits, who are eight in number, only this summer returned to their old church, which is one of the most remarkable for its ornaments in Venice, white marble inlaid with black. I remembered it well from twenty-six years ago. The superior, Padre Ferrario, is going to Rome to-morrow, and promised to see about my matters there with Cardinal Acton and the general of the Jesuits. I came home in haste, and found Phillipps, and Mrs. Neville and her friends with her, gone to St. Marco, where we followed them to see the treasury—i.e., the inestimably rich treasures brought by Doge Dandolo from Constantinople, just before it was taken by the Turks. The chief thing is an antependium and a reredos of massive gold, with splendid pearls and enamels. Mrs. Neville took us to the Convent of the Visitation, where is preserved the heart of St. Francis of Sales, which was brought from France when the Revolution drove off all religious. They could not show this relic; but promised prayers, and to write to other houses. There were there forty nuns. Back to dinner at the table d'hôte. After dinner we went all together to see the only large Gothic church in Venice, called St. —— di Frari, which is the Venetian for Frati; it used to be the Franciscan church, and their house is turned into a public Archivium. Phillipps said they deserved it for having such a palace. The church is a fine one, and has some good morsels; but what is most startling, or rather glaring, is the immense marble monument to Canova—a pyramid, with a heathen procession into it. His heart is here. His right hand in an urn at the Arcadinia. We tried at St. Sitorstro (Silvestro) to assist at the 40 ore, but all was over. We came back by a fine star light, and went to St. Marco, where we had ices at Floriano's café, and heard military music. Canonico Pio Bighi, and his young companion Don Giovanni Moneti, joined us, ad cor. sat. We came home at 9.
Sept. 7th.—Said mass at St. Marco, on the altar where the miraculous picture of Our Lady is, by St. Luke. The Greek priest told us there existed seventy-five of them. I went at 8½ to the Jesuits, to give a letter for Cardinal Acton, about indulgences for prayers for England, to Padre Ferrarrio, the Superior, who sets off to-day for Rome. I found Mrs. Neville and Father Raffaelle talking to him. The latter kindly went around with me to-day again. We went first to the Institute of St. Dorothea, founded lately by Conte Passi and his brother, which we desired to see. The Superioress was out, but another made excellent promises.—15 nuns. Then to St. Lucia, to the Sisters of Charity, and another house dependent on them. In the latter was an Armenian lady who spoke English, having been six years at Hammersmith Convent. The Superioress of the chief house spoke of Gentili with great respect; she knew him when she was at the house at Verona. She promised me for thirteen houses under her authority. Then we went past the Jesuits to a house of Reformed Franciscans (Zoccolanti). St. Michele di Marano. Promised for three houses as large as this, about twenty-six, and many more smaller. This is where Gregory XVI. was educated, made his novitiate, and was Superior. We saw the outside of his room; the key could not be got. We got back at 12½. I went with Phillipps to the Cardinal Patriarch, as appointed before. I gave him the prayer for England which I gave to Padre Ferrario, and he promised to speak with him also. Thence to the Accademia, where for two hours we looked at the pictures and statues. It did not greatly answer me. Thence left our cards on the Duc de Levis, who, with his master the Due de Bordeaux, is at the Albergo Reale. Then dined. Another maigre. After I did not go out with them, as I had office to say. At 7½ we had a party to tea—the Greek priest, with Mrs. Neville and three children. They stayed till past 11.
Monday, Sept. 8. Nativity of Blessed Virgin.—I said mass at S. Marco. We went to the high Armenian mass at S. Lazzaro at 10. We were a little late. After it we stayed there with our friends the fathers till vespers and benediction, at 3. And after that, dinner at 4. Mrs. Neville and family were there too. It was an interesting day for seeing and conversing. I saw, in the visitors' book, my name under Lefevre's, written by him July, 1820. We sat in the cloister, with the old Archbishop, &c., till twilight. He made us presents of many handsome books printed there. We came back to S. Marco, and sat to hear the band, &c. On coming home, at 7½, we were in great demand with cards and notes, left by the Duc de Levis, to invite us to the Duc de Bordeaux's (Comte de Chombard) salon at 7. We were all thrown back by Phillipps having no dresses to go in. So we had to keep easy at home.
Sunday, Sept. 9.—Mass at the cathedral (S. Marco). P. Raffaele and the Greek priest came to breakfast. At 10 I had a visit from the Superioress of the Institute of Sta. Dorothea and a companion. At 10½ we went to visit the Duc de Bordeaux, who gave us a quarter of an hour's most affable conversation, spoke with great kindness of his reception in England, and asked after Dr. Wiseman, &c. His confessor, the Abbé Trélouquet, was introduced to us, and came in our gondola to Mrs. Neville, of whom we took leave. Mr. Trélouquet promised to engage the French royal family in prayers for England. He said, the Duc de Bordeaux had spoken of my asking him at Oscott. We went then to S. Tommaso, where I left the Phillippses and went to the banker, Holme, who is Armenian consul. Then back to S. Tommaso, where I found them looking at an extraordinary collection of relics made by a priest, who devoted himself to the work when all things were in confusion in the revolution. He gave the collection to the church, on condition of their being open to the public for veneration. The chief relic is some of the blood of Our Lord, in a beautiful gold or gilt reliquary. I found there Monsignor Arfi, the Pope's Caudatario, and invited for England. I then went to Padre Raffaele, at the college, and went with him to see the two brothers, priests Cavanis, founders of an excellent institute of Scuole di Carità. They are in a poor house, with a few companions; one of them complained that no one helped them; but they are like their patron S. Joseph Calasanctius, losing ground in old age, but with hope of better things. P. Raffaele, who has indeed been an angel to me in Venice, came with me to the inn where they were at dinner. At 4 we left Venice, with pleasant remembrances. We crossed the lagune in a procession of boats, and got into the railway carriage, which took us to Padua about 7. At the Stella d'Oro I went out to try to find the Bishop; but he was not in town.
Tuesday, Sept, 10.—I went to St. Antony's church at 7½ to say mass. Before going I met Dr. Roskell, of Manchester, just come with a Manchester party on a rapid tour. I could not have the altar of St. Antony, which seems always occupied. I spoke to the Superior of the house of Conventual Franciscans attached to the church, 50 in number, who promised to recommend my cause. I came back in a little carriage with Phillipps. We started at 9 for Verona, dined at Vicenza; then I took a carriage and called on the Bishop, Monsignor Capellari, a good old man, who received me graciously. We stopped in going out of Vicenza to see Palladio's Olympic Theatre, built to act the OEdipus Tyrannus in 1585. This pretends to nothing but paganism. We reached Verona at 7. I went out to see the Bishop, who was quite gracious; he begins his retreat with his clergy to-morrow, and promised to begin then and recommend England. I then called at Conte Persico's, who is in town, but was just gone to the theatre. Home, and to bed at 9½.
Wednesday, Sept. 11.—Up soon after 5, and at 7 said mass in St. Anastasius, a large church close to the hotel. Soon after Conte Persico came to return my visit, and sat a good while with me, then with the Phillippses, to whom I introduced him. He is grown very old, being now 67. He said he was married two years after I had seen him before, and was now by accident in town with his wife. I thought him very like his old father. At 10 we went in a carriage to see the tombs of the Scaligeri, formerly tyrants of Verona, fine Gothic structure; then the Amphitheatre, and the church of St. Zenone, where I saw the image of the saint again which I before laughed at, as a thing so to be treated, in 1820. I then called at Conte Persico's, and saw his lady. At 12½ we set off for Dezenzano, a beautiful spot at the town end of the Lake di Garda. We arrived at 6, and had a pleasant evening in a little room of the Albergo Imperiale, looking over the lake. I wrote to Mrs. Neville and Abbé de Baudry.