“Without doubt deer-stalking is one of the most fatiguing, but it is also one of the most interesting of pursuits. There is not a tree, or a bush behind which you can hide yourself.... One has, therefore, to be constantly on the alert in order to circumvent them; and to keep under the hill out of their wind, crawling on hands and knees, and dressed entirely in grey.”
[9] My half-brother, Prince Leiningen, who died in 1856.
At half-past four we drove out with Lady Willoughby and the Duchess of Buccleuch. We drove through Fern Tower (belonging to the widow of the first Sir D. Baird), where we stopped the carriage; then to Abercairny, Major Moray’s. We got out there a moment to look at the very fine house he is building, then drove home by Monzie (Campbell of Monzie’s), and Sir W. Murray’s, and had a very good view of the Highland hills—a very fine day. At eight we dined. The Belhavens, Seftons, Cravens, Campbell of Monzie, and various others composed the party. After dinner more people came—several in kilts; and many reels were danced; Campbell of Monzie is an exceedingly good dancer. We danced one country dance—I with Lord Willoughby—and Albert with Lady Carington.
Tuesday, September 13.
We had to start early, and therefore got up soon after seven o’clock; breakfast before eight. At nine we set off. The morning was very foggy and hazy. We passed near Lord Strathallan’s place and stopped for a moment where old Lady Strathallan was seated. Lord Willoughby rode with us the whole way till we arrived here. Soon after this we came to a very extraordinary Roman encampment at Ardoch, called the “Lindrum.” Albert got out; but I remained in the carriage, and Major Moray showed it to him. They say it is one of the most perfect in existence.
We changed horses at Greenloaning, and passed through Dunblane. At twelve o’clock we reached Stirling, where the crowd was quite fearful, and the streets so narrow, that it was most alarming; and order was not very well kept. Up to the Castle, the road or street is dreadfully steep; we had a foot procession before us the whole way, and the heat was intense. The situation of the Castle is extremely grand; but I prefer that of Edinburgh Castle. Old Sir Archibald Christie explained everything to us very well. We were shown the room where James II. killed Douglas, and the window out of which he was thrown. The ceiling is most curious. A skeleton was found in the garden only twenty-five years ago, and there appears to be little doubt it was Douglas’s. From the terrace the view is very extensive; but it was so thick and hazy, that we could not see the Highland hills well. Sir A. Christie showed us the field of the battle of Bannockburn; and the “Knoll,” close under the walls of the Castle, from which the ladies used to watch the tournaments; all the embankments yet remain. We also saw Knox’s pulpit.
We next passed through Falkirk, and changed horses at Callander Park, Mr. Forbes’s; both he and Sir Michael Bruce having ridden with us from beyond Stirling. We passed Lord Zetland on the road, and shortly before reaching Linlithgow, where we changed horses, Lord Hopetoun met us. Unfortunately, we did not see the Palace, which, I am told, is well worth seeing. The Duke of Buccleuch met us soon after this, and, accompanied by a large number of his tenants, rode with us on horseback to Dalkeith. We changed horses at Kirkliston, and lastly at the outskirts of Edinburgh. There were a good many people assembled at Edinburgh; but we were unable to stop. We reached Dalkeith at half-past five.
The journey was 65 miles, and I was very tired, and felt most happy that we had safely arrived here.
Dalkeith, Wednesday, September 14.
This is our last day in Scotland; it is really a delightful country, and I am very sorry to leave it. We walked out and saw the fine greenhouse the Duke has built, all in stone, in the Renaissance style. At half-past three o’clock we went out with the Duchess of Buccleuch, only Colonel Bouverie riding with us. We drove through Melville Park, and through one of the little collier villages (of which there are a great many about Dalkeith), called Loanhead, to Rosslyn.