FORDING THE POLL TARF.
After a Drawing by Carl Haag.
The Tilt becomes narrower and narrower, till its first source is almost invisible. The Tarff flows into the Tilt, about two miles or more beyond the falls. We emerged from the pass upon an open valley—with less high hills and with the hills of Braemar before us. We crossed the Bainoch or Bynack, quite a small stream, and when we came to the “County March”—where Perth and Aberdeen join—we halted. The Duke gave Albert and me some whisky to drink, out of an old silver flask of his own, and then made a short speech proposing my health, expressing the pleasure with which he and all had received me at Blair, and hoping that I would return as often as I liked, and that I should have a safe return home; ending by the true Highland “Nis! nis! nis! Sit air a-nis! A-ris! a-ris! a-ris!” (pronounced: “Neesh! neesh! neesh! Sheet eir, a-neesh! A-rees! a-rees! a-rees!”) which means: “Now! now! now! That to him, now! Again! again! again!” which was responded to by cheering from all. Grant then proposed “three cheers for the Duke of Athole,” which was also very warmly responded to;—my pony (good “Inchrory”), which went admirably, rather resenting the vehemence of Brown’s cheering.
We then went on again for about three miles to the Bainoch, which we reached at ten minutes to six, when it was already nearly dark. As we approached the “shiel,” the pipers struck up, and played. The ponies went so well with the pipes, and altogether it was very pleasant to ride and walk with them. They played “the Athole Highlanders” when we started, and again in coming in.
Lady Fife had very kindly come down to the Bainoch herself, where she gave us tea, which was very welcome. We then got into our carriages, wishing the good Duke of Athole good-by. He was going back the whole way—which was certainly rather a hazardous proceeding, at least an adventurous one, considering the night, and that there was no moon—and what the road was! We got home safely at a quarter-past eight. The night was quite warm, though slightly showery—but became very clear and starlight later.
We had travelled 69 miles to-day, and 60 yesterday. This was the pleasantest and most enjoyable expedition I ever made; and the recollection of it will always be most agreeable to me, and increase my wish to make more! Was so glad dear Louis (who is a charming companion) was with us. Have enjoyed nothing as much, or indeed felt so much cheered by anything, since my great sorrow.[57] Did not feel tired. We ladies did not dress, and dined en famille; looking at maps of the Highlands after dinner.
[57] The death of the Duchess of Kent.