Here we are in this very pretty spot, with a lovely view of the Wicklow Hills from the window. But now to return to yesterday’s proceedings. We got under weigh at half-past eight o’clock; for three hours it was dreadfully rough, and I and the poor children were very sea-sick. When we had passed the Tuscan Rock in Wexford the sea became smoother, and shortly after, quite smooth, and the evening beautiful. After we passed Arklow Head, the Wicklow Hills came in sight—they are beautiful. The Sugarloaf and Carrick Mountain have finely pointed outlines, with low hills in front and much wood. At half-past six we came in sight of Dublin Bay, and were met by the “Sphynx” and “Stromboli” (which had been sent on to wait and to come in with us), the “Trident,” and, quite close to the harbour, by the “Dragon,” another war-steamer. With this large squadron we steamed slowly and majestically into the harbour of Kingstown, which was covered with thousands and thousands of spectators, cheering most enthusiastically. It is a splendid harbour, and was full of ships of every kind. The wharf, where the landing-place was prepared, was densely crowded, and altogether it was a noble and stirring scene. It was just seven when we entered, and the setting sun lit up the country, the fine buildings, and the whole scene with a glowing light, which was truly beautiful. We were soon surrounded by boats, and the enthusiasm and excitement of the people were extreme.
While we were at breakfast the yacht was brought close up to the wharf, which was lined with troops. Lord and Lady Clarendon and George[58] came on board; also Lords Lansdowne and Clanricarde, the Primate, the Archbishop of Dublin, and many others. The address was presented by the Sheriff and gentlemen of the county. As the clock struck ten we disembarked, stepping on shore from the yacht, Albert leading me and the children, and all the others following us. An immense multitude had assembled, who cheered most enthusiastically, the ships saluting and the bands playing, and it was really very striking. The space we had to walk along to the railroad was covered in; and lined with ladies and gentlemen strewing flowers. We entered the railway-carriages with the children, the Clarendons, and the three ladies; and in a quarter of an hour reached the Dublin station. Here we found our carriages with the postilions in their Ascot liveries. The two eldest children went with us, and the two younger ones with the three ladies. Sir Edward Blakeney, Commander-in-Chief in Ireland, rode on one side of the carriage and George on the other, followed by a brilliant staff, and escorted by the 17th Lancers and the Carabiniers.
[58] The Duke of Cambridge.
It was a wonderful and striking scene, such masses of human beings, so enthusiastic, so excited, yet such perfect order maintained; then the numbers of troops, the different bands stationed at certain distances, the waving of hats and handkerchiefs, the bursts of welcome which rent the air,—all made it a never-to-be-forgotten scene; when one reflected how lately the country had been in open revolt and under martial law.
Dublin is a very fine city; and Sackville Street and Merrion Square are remarkably large and handsome; and the Bank, Trinity College, &c. are noble buildings. There are no gates to the town, but temporary ones were erected under an arch; and here we stopped, and the Mayor presented me the keys with some appropriate words. At the last triumphal arch a poor little dove was let down into my lap, with an olive branch round its neck, alive and very tame. The heat and dust were tremendous. We reached Phœnix Park, which is very extensive, at twelve. Lord and Lady Clarendon and all the household received us at the door. It is a nice comfortable house, reminding us of Claremont, with a pretty terrace garden in front (laid out by Lady Normanby), and has a very extensive view of the Park and the fine range of the Wicklow Mountains. We are most comfortably lodged, and have very nice rooms.
Tuesday, August 7.
We drove into Dublin—with our two ladies—in Lord Clarendon’s carriage, the gentlemen following; and without any escort. The people were very enthusiastic, and cheered a great deal. We went, first, to the Bank, where the Directors received us, and then to the printing-room, and from thence viewed the old Houses of Lords and Commons, for what is now the Bank was the old Parliament House. From here we drove to the Model-School, where we were received by the Archbishop of Dublin, the Roman Catholic Archbishop Murray (a fine venerable-looking old man of eighty), and the other gentlemen connected with the school. We saw the Infant, the Girls’, and the Boys’ Schools; in the latter, one class of boys was examined in mental arithmetic and in many very difficult things, and they all answered wonderfully. Children of all creeds are admitted, and their different doctrines are taught separately, if the parents wish it; but the only teaching enforced is that of the Gospel truths, and love and charity. This is truly Christian and ought to be the case everywhere. About 1,000 children are educated here annually, of which 300 are trained as schoolmasters and mistresses. From here we visited Trinity College, the Irish University, which is not conducted upon so liberal a system, but into which Roman Catholics are admitted. Dr. Todd, the secretary, and a very learned man, well versed in the Irish language, showed us some most interesting ancient manuscripts and relics, including St. Columba’s Book (in which we wrote our names), and the original harp of King O’Brian, supposed to be the one from which the Irish arms are taken. The library is a very large handsome room, like that in Trinity College, Cambridge. We then proceeded towards home, the crowd in the streets immense, and so loyal. It rained a little at intervals. Home by a little past one. Albert went into Dublin again after luncheon, and I wrote and read, and heard our children say some lessons.
At five we proceeded to Kilmainham Hospital, very near here; Lord Clarendon going in the carriage with the ladies and myself—Albert and the other gentlemen riding. Sir Edward Blakeney and his staff, and George, received us. We saw the old pensioners, the chapel, and the hall, a fine large room (where all the pensioners dine, as at Chelsea), and then Sir Edward’s private apartments. We afterwards took a drive through all the principal parts of Dublin,—College Green, where the celebrated statue of William the III. is to be seen; Stephens’ Green, by The Four Courts, a very handsome building; and, though we were not expected, the crowds were in many places very great. We returned a little before seven. A large dinner. After dinner above two or three hundred people arrived, including most of the Irish nobility and many of the gentry; and afterwards there was a ball.
Wednesday, August 8.