We started at four o’clock in the morning, and the yacht rolled a little, but the motion was an easy one. We were in the Clyde by breakfast-time, but the day was very bad, constant squalls hiding the scenery. We left Greenock to our left, and proceeded a little way up Loch Goil, which opens into Loch Long, and is very fine; it seems extraordinary to have such deep water in a narrow loch and so immediately below the mountains, which are very rocky. We turned back and went up Loch Long, which I remembered so well, and which is so beautiful. We let go the anchor at Arrochar, the head of the lake, intending to land and proceed to Loch Lomond, where a steamer was waiting for us; but it poured with rain most hopelessly. We waited an hour in vain, and decided on stopping till after luncheon and making the attempt at three o’clock. We lunched and stepped into the boat, as it had cleared a little; but just then it began pouring again more violently than before, and we put back much disappointed, but Albert persevered, and he went off with Mr. Anson, Sir James Clark, and Captain Robinson almost directly afterwards. Just then it cleared and I felt so vexed that we had not gone; but there have been some terrible showers since. We left Arrochar a little before four, Loch Long looking beautiful as we returned.
Perth, Tuesday, August 14.
We anchored yesterday in Roseneath Bay, close to Roseneath—a very pretty spot—and looking towards the mountains which you see in Loch Goil. One of them is called “The Duke of Argyll’s Bowling-green.” Albert only returned soon after eight o’clock, having been able to see a good deal of Loch Lomond, and even Rob Roy’s Cave, in spite of heavy showers. Captain Beechey (who was with us during the whole voyage in ’47, and again the whole of this one to pilot us), Captain Crispin, and Captain Robinson (who met us this morning and piloted Albert in Loch Lomond, and did the same for us in ’47), dined with us also, and we had much interesting conversation about the formation of glaciers, &c., in all of which Captain Beechey (who is a very intelligent man, and has been all over the world) took part. He was with Sir Edward Parry at the North Pole, and told us that they had not seen daylight for four months. They heaped up snow over the ship and covered it in with boards to keep the cold off.
Balmoral, Wednesday, August 15.
It seems like a dream to be here in our dear Highland home again; it certainly does not seem as if it were a year since we were here! Now I must describe the doings of yesterday. We embarked on board the “Fairy” at a quarter to nine o’clock, and proceeded up the Clyde in pouring rain and high wind, and it was very stormy till after we had passed Greenock. We steamed past Port Glasgow, then came Dumbarton and Erskine. The river narrows and winds extraordinarily here, and you do not see Glasgow until you are quite close upon it. As we approached, the banks were lined with people, either on estrades or on the sea-shore, and it was amusing to see all those on the shore take flight, often too late, as the water bounded up from the swell caused by the steamer.
The weather, which had been dreadful, cleared up, just as we reached Glasgow, about eleven, and continued fine for the remainder of the day. Several addresses were presented on board, first by the Lord Provost, who was knighted, (Colonel Gordon’s sword being used,) then one from the county, the clergy (Established Church and Free Kirk), and from the Houses of Commerce. We landed immediately after this; the landing-place was very handsomely decorated. We then entered our carriage with the two eldest children, the two others following. Mr. Alison (the celebrated historian, who is the Sheriff) rode on one side of the carriage, and General Riddell (the Commander of the Forces in Scotland) on the other. The crowds assembled were quite enormous, but excellent order was kept and they were very enthusiastic. Mr. Alison said that there were 500,000 people out. The town is a handsome one with fine streets built in stone, and many fine buildings and churches. We passed over a bridge commanding an extensive view down two quays, which Albert said was very like Paris. There are many large shops and warehouses, and the shipping is immense.
We went up to the old cathedral, where Principal Mac Farlane, a very old man, received us, and directed our attention, as we walked through the church gates, to an immensely high chimney, the highest I believe in existence, which belongs to one of the manufactories. The cathedral is a very fine one, the choir of which is fitted up as a Presbyterian church. We were shown the crypt and former burial-place of the bishops, which is in a very high state of preservation. The architecture is beautiful. It is in this crypt that the famous scene in Rob Roy is laid, where Rob Roy gives Frank Osbaldistone warning that he is in danger. There is an old monument of St. Kentigern, commonly called St. Mungo, the founder of the cathedral. We re-entered our carriages and went to the University, an ancient building, and which has produced many great and learned men. Here we got out and received an address. We only stopped a few minutes, and then went on again towards the Exchange, in front of which is Marochetti’s equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, very like and beautifully executed. We got out at the railway station and started almost immediately.
We passed Stirling in the distance, and a little before four we reached Perth, where the people were very friendly. We took the four children in our carriage and drove straight to the “George Inn,” where we had the same rooms that we had last time.
Albert went out immediately to see the prison, and at six we drove together along the London Road (as they rather strangely call it), towards Moncrieffe. The view was perfectly beautiful, and is the finest of Perth and the grand bridge over the Tay.