In entering the bay we passed the small village of Mousehole and the town of Penzance, which is prettily situated, about one mile and a half from St. Michael’s Mount. The day brightened just as we arrived, and the sea again became so blue.
Soon after our arrival we anchored; the crowd of boats was beyond everything; numbers of Cornish pilchard fishermen, in their curious large boats, kept going round and round, and then anchored, besides many other boats full of people. They are a very noisy, talkative race, and speak a kind of English hardly to be understood.
During our voyage I was able to give Vicky her lessons. At three o’clock we all got into the barge, including the children and Mdlle. Gruner, their governess, and rowed through an avenue of boats of all descriptions to the “Fairy,” where we went on board. The getting in and out of the barge was no easy task. There was a good deal of swell, and the “Fairy” herself rolled amazingly. We steamed round the bay to look at St. Michael’s Mount from the other side, which is even more beautiful, and then went on to Penzance. Albert landed near Penzance with all the gentlemen, except Lord Spencer (who is most agreeable, efficient, and useful at sea, being a Captain of the Navy) and Colonel Grey, and went to see the smelting of copper and tin, and the works in serpentine stone at Penzance. We remained here a little while without going on, in order to sketch, and returned to the “Victoria and Albert” by half-past four, the boats crowding round us in all directions; and when Bertie showed himself the people shouted:—“Three cheers for the Duke of Cornwall!” Albert returned a little before seven, much gratified by what he had seen, and bringing home specimens of the serpentine stone.
Mount’s Bay, Sunday, September 6.
A hazy, dull-looking morning, but as calm as it possibly could be. At half-past eight o’clock we got into our barge, with Miss Kerr and Lord Spencer, and proceeded without any standard to the little harbour below St. Michael’s Mount. Behind St. Michael’s Mount is the little town of Marazion, or “Market Jew,” which is supposed to have taken its name from the Jews having in former times trafficked there. We disembarked and walked up the Mount by a circuitous rugged path over rocks and turf, and entered the old castle, which is beautifully kept, and must be a nice house to live in; as there are so many good rooms in it. The dining-room, made out of the refectory, is very pretty; it is surrounded by a frieze, representing ancient hunting. The chapel is excessively curious. The organ is much famed; Albert played a little on it, and it sounded very fine. Below the chapel is a dungeon, where some years ago was discovered the skeleton of a large man without a coffin; the entrance is in the floor of one of the pews. Albert went down with Lord Spencer, and afterwards went with him and Sir James Clark (who, with Lord Palmerston and Colonel Grey, had joined us,) up to the tower, on the top of which is “St. Michael’s chair,” which, it is said, betrothed couples run up to, and whoever gets first into the chair will have at home the government of the house; and the old housekeeper—a nice tidy old woman—said many a couple “does go there!” though Albert and Lord Spencer said it was the awkwardest place possible to get at. St. Michael’s Mount belongs to Sir J. St. Aubyn. There were several drawings there of Mont St. Michel in Normandy, which is very like this one; and was, I believe, inhabited by the same order of monks as this was, i.e. Benedictines. We walked down again, had to step over another boat in order to get into our barge, as the tide was so very low, and returned on board the yacht before ten.
The view from the top of St. Michael’s is very beautiful and very extensive, but unfortunately it was too thick and hazy to see it well. A low ridge of sand separates St. Michael’s Mount from Marazion at low water, and the sea at high water. From the sand to the summit of the castle is about 250 feet. The chapel was originally erected, they say, for the use of pilgrims who came here; and it owes its name to a tradition of St. Michael the Archangel having rested on the rock.
At half-past eleven Lord Spencer read on deck the short morning service generally read at sea, which only lasted twenty or twenty-five minutes. The awning was put up, and flags on the sides; and all the officers and sailors were there, as well as ourselves. A flag was hoisted, as is usual when the service is performed on board ship, and Lord Spencer read extremely well.
Albert made a most beautiful little sketch of St. Michael’s Mount. Soon after two we left Mount’s Bay. About four we came opposite to some very curious serpentine rocks, between Mount’s Bay and Lizard Point, and we stopped, that Albert might land. The gentlemen went with him. Lord Spencer soon returned, saying that Albert was very anxious I should see the beautiful little cave in these serpentine rocks; and accordingly I got into the barge, with the children, and ladies, and Lord Spencer, and we rowed to these rocks, with their caves and little creeks. There were many cormorants and sea-gulls on the rocks. We returned again, and were soon joined by Albert, who brought many fine specimens which he had picked up. The stone is really beautifully marked with red and green veins.
We proceeded on our course, and reached Falmouth before seven. The fine afternoon was changed to a foggy, dull, cold evening. We have had on board with us, since we left Falmouth, Mr. Taylor, mineral agent to the Duchy of Cornwall, a very intelligent young man, married to a niece of Sir Charles Lemon’s.