Fig. 425
(It is a convenience in making this toy to let the cover form one side, the cover being left off until all the inside arrangements are complete; the pivots can then be put into their holes in the cover, and the cover put on.)
Now if the projecting ends of A B are pushed backward and forward the figures fight in a very realistic manner. Notice that A B has two movements: one backward and forward, the other up and down. The lead weights in M and N keep A B up. Generally speaking, the longer the slits are the better the figure works. This, however, does not apply to slits c d and g h. The slits need not be so close together as in the figure if it is desired that the swordsmen should fight at a greater distance.
The arms are cut out of cardboard and fastened by paper-fasteners on each side of the figure; the swords may be cut out with the arms, or made separately and gummed on after-wards, pieces of cane making effective swords. A more difficult but more satisfactory way of putting on the arms is this: pass a very short piece of cane through the hole in the body, where the arms are to be fastened; see that it turns very easily in the hole; next seccotine the pieces of cane that project at each side into holes in the arms; see that one arm is up, the other down. To make the arms balance well, it may be necessary to fasten a small piece of lead to one hand.
This toy is most amusing if carefully made. The following hints may be useful:
(1) Draw and paint the little swordsmen as carefully as possible.
(2) See that the slits are perfectly straight and wide enough for the cardboard to pass through.
(3) See that the arms, legs and feet turn easily on their pivots, whether these pivots be paper-fasteners, cane or knitting needles.
(4) See that sufficient lead is attached.