On the 12th of April, 1769, the expedition sent out from England under the command of Captain Cook, to observe the transit of Venus, arrived at Tahiti, and anchored at Matavai Bay. To protect the astronomers from the intrusion of the natives, a small fort was erected on the north shore of the bay, and from this position the transit was observed on the 3rd of June of the same year.
Through a misconception of the native pronunciation, the name of the island, "Otaheite," was now brought into general use by Cook; and although it was clearly pointed out by Ellis—the missionary who wrote in 1832—that Tahiti was really the native name, the term "Otaheite," erroneously assigned by Cook, remained in use for many years subsequent to the time of Ellis.
About the beginning of the present century the English missionaries, who had previously established themselves in Western Polynesia, extended their labours to Tahiti, where they met with great success in their efforts to Christianize the inhabitants. They retained their influence over the natives until the year 1838, when two French Catholic missionaries arrived at Tahiti, with the intention of preaching the doctrines of their Church. They were not, however, allowed to obtain a footing on the island, but were forcibly expelled. They accordingly sought the protection of the French admiral, Du Petit Thouars, then commanding the frigate La Venus in the Pacific, and in the year 1842 he demanded satisfaction in the name of his government; and on Queen Pomare of Tahiti refusing to accede to his demand, he declared war against the Tahitians. The islanders were compelled to submit to the superior power of the French; and on coming to terms with their conquerors, it was agreed that the Tahitians should be allowed to retain their own form of government, but under a French Protectorate, and that freedom should be given to all persons to practise or preach whatever religion they pleased.
The Protectorate continued in force until July 1880, when, at the request of King Pomare V. and the native chiefs, the island and its dependencies were definitely ceded to France, so that they now form an integral part of the French Republic.
Our visit to Tahiti took place a few weeks after the French annexation. At daybreak on the 6th August, 1880, we sighted the south-eastern extremity of the island, and on closing the land skirted along its north-east coast, having thus on our port hand a magnificent panoramic view of this lovely island. As we passed abreast of some of the deeper valleys, we got glimpses of the famous Diadem Peak, which rises to an altitude of 7,000 feet. Its summit is jagged, so as to present a very distinct resemblance to a royal crown, and hence the name "crown" or "diadem" so aptly assigned. I was much struck by the resemblance which the scenery here presented to that of Madeira. The conformation of the volcanic peaks and ridges is very similar, but the vegetable covering is of a sap green tint, whereas that of Madeira, seen from a similar distance, appears of a bronze hue. At the distance from the land which the barrier reef obliged us to maintain, the belt of cocoa-nut trees which covers the shore platform was only visible through the telescope.
In the harbour of Papiété, where we anchored, were the French flagship Victorieuse, an ironclad, and a wooden sloop the Dayot. Here we had abundant evidence of the extreme care taken by the French Government to render the harbour and its surroundings as perfect in every respect as a lavish expenditure of money could effect. A solidly-built sea-wall, alongside of which merchant vessels were landing and shipping cargoes, fronted the settlement; a neatly-kept alameda, shaded by the luxuriant foliage of large Hibiscus trees, covered what was formerly the coral foreshore; broad streets running in at right angles to the wharf traversed the town; a dockyard with spacious sheds and storehouses covered a low point jutting out on the northern side of the harbour; and on a small picturesque island lying near the entrance was a gun battery nestling under tall cocoa-nut trees, and yet so constructed as not to detract from the romantic appearance of this beautiful and marvellous work of nature. The Tahitians still retain and deserve their old reputation for great amiability of disposition and extraordinary good humour. One is greeted by almost every native passed on the road with the friendly salutation "Yoronha" (meaning "good-day"), accompanied by a merry smile. Indeed, one cannot help being struck by the number of smiling, laughing faces seen at Tahiti, and to my mind there is nothing more characteristic of the Tahitians, as distinguished from all other islanders, than the ever smiling face reflecting genuine good humour for which there is no apparent cause. In many respects, however, they seem to have improved but little since the time of Wallis. Morality is still at a very low ebb, and the abuse of intoxicating drinks is an evil which seems likely in time to create sad havoc among them. For unfortunately, since the French annexation, spirit shops have been thrown open to the natives, although, under the old missionary régime, the possession of spirit of any kind was forbidden by the command of Queen Pomare. Of late years the population has been increasing, owing to the abolition of infanticide, which was formerly the fashion of the country.
The principal products of the island are cotton, sugar, cocoa-nuts, oranges, and vanilla. These articles are sent to San Francisco, with which port there is monthly communication by means of sailing vessels; the cocoa-nut trade being perhaps in this, as in most other Polynesian islands, the most reliable industry. Usually the sun-dried kernel, known commercially as "Copra," is exported, but sometimes the nuts are shipped entire. The cultivation of the cocoa-nut tree does not require much trouble. The ripe nuts, if exposed on the ground in places where they are free from the depredations of land-crabs and centipedes, readily germinate, and on being planted at distances of about five yards apart, they take root and require no further care. However, those planted in good soil give, as might be expected, an earlier and more productive yield than is afforded by trees grown in the poor land which usually adjoins the coral sea-beach. A cocoa-nut planted in average soil commences to bear fruit in about the fifth year of its existence, and from that time until it has attained the age of a hundred years,—when it is probably blown down,—it yields about twelve dozen nuts per annum.
A large trade is also done in oranges. They are packed up in boxes and shipped to San Francisco, and although about half of the cargo decays during the voyage, the profit derived from the other half is found to yield a sufficient remuneration.
The cultivation of vanilla—an introduced plant—requires great care, artificial aid being necessary to ensure the proper fertilization of the flowers. Samples of the cured bean which we saw seemed to be of very fair quality, and likely to command high prices in the European markets. These are now sold at Tahiti at the rate of 4s. per pound;—I should rather have said at the rate of a dollar a pound, because, strange to say, the currency at Tahiti is in Chilian silver dollars, whereas in Chili itself the currency is now almost entirely in paper, a hard dollar being very rarely encountered there.
The great war canoes are now things of the past, even the single outrigger canoes being only used by the poorer classes who cannot afford to buy boats of European build. The manufacture of pandanus mats and native cloth is also becoming obsolete, and it is said that the art of making these things is almost unknown to the rising generation. At present the favourite occupation of the natives, if we exclude dancing and lolling in the sunshine, is fishing; and a well-to-do native, who can afford to provide himself with an European fishing net, makes plenty of dollars to spend in drink and gay-coloured clothes. The fishermen of the poorer class paddle out on the reef at night, and spear fish by torchlight as of old, so that every night the reefs outside the harbour are gaily illumined by these torch fires.