Sketch of the country in the vicinity of the Gold Region near Pike's Peak and Cherry Creek.
| 9-1/2. | Willow Springs.—At nine miles the road passes "Black Jack Creek," where there is a good camping-place. The road has but little wood upon it at first, but it increases toward the end of the march. The road is level for some distance, but becomes more rolling, and the country is covered with the finest grass. Good camp at one mile from the main road. |
| 20-1/4. | 110-Mile Creek.—The road traverses the same character of country as yesterday, but with less woodland, is very smooth, and at 9 and 12 miles passes "Rock Creeks," which have no running water in a dry season. Good camp. |
| 22-1/2. | Prairie Chicken Creek.—At eight miles the road crosses Dwissler Creek, which is a fine little stream; four miles farther First Dragoon Creek, and at one mile farther the Second Dragoon Creek, both fine streams, well wooded, and good camping-places. Good camp. |
| 20. | "Big Rock Creek."—At one mile the road crosses a small wooded branch. Three miles beyond it crosses "Elm Creek," where a good camping-place may be found. At 7 miles it crosses 142-Mile Creek, and at 13 miles it crosses Bluff Creek, where there is a good camping-place. Good camp. |
| 20. | "Council Grove," on Elm Creek.—Road passes "Big John Spring" at 13 miles, and is smooth and good. A fine camp is found three fourths of a mile beyond the "Grove," on Elm Creek, with abundance of wood, water, and grass. |
| 16. | Diamond Spring.—At-eight miles the road crosses Elm Creek, and passes over a section similar to that east of Council Grove. It is fine in dry weather, but muddy after heavy rains. Good camp at Diamond Spring. |
| 16. | Lost Spring.—One mile from camp the road passes a wooded creek. From thence there is no more wood or permanent water until arriving at camp. Take wood here for cooking, as there is not a tree or bush in sight from Lost Spring. The country becomes more level, with grass every where. The road is muddy in wet weather. |
| 15-3/4. | Cottonwood Creek.—Road continues over a prairie country, sensibly rising and improving. Wood, water, and grass at camp. |
| 22. | Turkey Creek.—The road is good, and at 18 miles passes Little Turkey Creek. No wood, and the water poor at camp; grass good. |
| 23. | Little Arkansas River.—The road runs over a level prairie, and at 3-1/2 miles passes "Big Turkey Creek," with the Arkansas River Valley in sight all day. After rains there are frequent pools of water along the road. Good camp. |
| 20. | "Big Cow" Creek.—The road passes for ten miles over a level prairie, to Charez Creek, which is a bushy gully; thence six miles to Little Cow Creek, which is a brushy stream, with here and there a tree. Good camp here to the left of the road, near a clump of trees. "Prairie-dog towns" commence to be seen. Road very level. Buffalo-grass here. |
| 20. | Big Bend of the Arkansas.—The road at 12 miles strikes the sand-hills of the Arkansas River. They are soon passed, however, and the level river bottom is reached. The river has a rapid current flowing over a quicksand bed. The road is generally good from the last camp. Wood, water, and grass at camp. |
| 7. | Walnut Creek.—The road is good. Cool springs at this camp; good grass and wood. |
| 21. | Head of Coon Creek.—At five miles the road forks, one following the river, the other a "short cut" "dry route" to Fort Atkinson, where they unite on the river. The country rises for ten miles on the dry route, then descends to the river, and is covered with the short buffalo-grass. No wood at camp. |
| 18. | Arkansas River.—The road passes over an undulating and uninteresting prairie, with but little vegetation. The water in dry weather is in pools. |
| 19. | Arkansas River, at Fort Atkinson.—The road runs over a similar country to that of yesterday, with no wood near; plenty of buffalo-chips for cooking, and good grass. |
| 18-3/4. | Arkansas River.—At 4-1/2 miles the road ascends a bluff covered with thick buffalo-grass. On the river is heavy bottom-grass. At 17 miles pass a ford. Grass good at camp. |
| 19-1/4. | Arkansas River.—The road is sandy for 14 miles, but not deep except in places; thence to camp it is good. Good camp. |
| 22. | Arkansas River.—Country prairie, covered with short buffalo-grass. Good camp. |
| 22. | Arkansas River.—The road is fine, crossing several dry-beds of creeks, along which are seen a few scattering trees. Good camp on a dry creek near the river. |
| 24. | Arkansas River.—The road runs over a barren plain at the foot of the main plateau, and crosses two dry creeks near the camp, on which are cottonwood-trees. Plenty of wood at camp. |
| 21. | Arkansas River.—The road follows the base of the hills at from one to three miles from the river. Good camp. |
| 20. | Arkansas River.—At seven miles the road strikes the "Big Timbers," where there is a large body of cottonwood; thence for three miles the road is heavy sand. Good camps along here. |
| 13. | Arkansas River.—At one mile the road passes some old houses formerly used as a trading-post. Here terminates the "Big Timbers." Coarse grass at the camp. |
| 15. | Arkansas River.—At three miles the road passes the mouth of Purgatoire Creek. Camp is below Bent's Fort. Good grass here. |
| 24. | Arkansas River.—Pass Bent's Fort. The grass is excellent in the vicinity of the fort, but after this it is not so good. The road runs over a high and considerably broken country. Good camp. |
| 11. | Arkansas River.—Opposite the mouth of the Apishpa Creek; good camp. The Huerfano Mountains and Spanish Peaks are in sight from the camp. The "Cherokee Trail" comes in from Arkansas near Bent's Fort, and leads to the gold diggings at Cherry Creek. |
| 9. | Arkansas River.—Opposite the mouth of the Huerfano Creek. Good camp, and a ford opposite Charles Audebee's house. |
| 12. | Arkansas River.—At this point the Cherokee trail bears to the right and leaves the river. The left-hand, or river road, runs up to the old pueblo at the mouth of the Fontaine qui Bouille Creek. The right-hand road leads to the gold diggings. |
SANGRE DE CRISTO PASS.
| 15-3/4. | Fontaine qui Bouille.—The road strikes in a northwest course over the rolling country, and comes upon the creek at a most beautiful camp, where there is a great abundance of good wood, water, and grass. The wood, water, and grass are good at all points on the Fontaine qui Bouille, and travelers can camp any where upon this stream. |
| 17-1/2. | Fontaine qui Bouille.—Here the road forks, one running up the river, and the other striking directly across to the divide of the Arkansas and Platte. I prefer the left-hand road, as it has more water and better grass upon it. |
| 6-1/2. | Forks of the "Fontaine qui Bouille."—The road to Cherry Creek here leaves the "Fontaine qui Bouille" and bears to the right. There is a large Indian trail which crosses the main creek, and takes a northwest course toward "Pike's Peak." By going up this trail about two miles a mineral spring will be found, which gives the stream its name of "The Fountain that Boils." This spring, or, rather, these springs, as there are two, both of which boil up out of solid rock, are among the greatest natural curiosities that I have ever seen. The water is strongly impregnated with salts, but is delightful to the taste, and somewhat similar to the Congress-water. It will well compensate any one for the trouble of visiting it. |
| 17-1/2. | Black Squirrel Creek.—This creek is near the crest of the high divide between the Arkansas and Platte Rivers. It is a small running branch, but always affords good water. There is pine timber here, and the grass is good on the prairies to the east. This is a locality which is very subject to severe storms, and it was here that I encountered the most severe snow-storm that I have ever known, on the first day of May, 1858. I would advise travelers to hasten past this spot as rapidly as possible during the winter and spring months, as a storm might prove very serious here. |
| 14. | Near the head of Cherry Creek.—The road crosses one small branch at four miles from Black Squirrel Creek; it then takes up to an elevated plateau, which in a rainy season is very muddy. The camp is at the first timber that is found, near the road, to the left. There is plenty of wood, water, and grass here. There is also a good camping-place at the small branch that is mentioned. |
| 10. | On Cherry Creek.—There is good grass, wood, and water throughout the valley of Cherry Creek. The mountains are from five to ten miles distant, on the left or west of the road, and when I passed there was a great abundance of elk, deer, antelope, bear, and turkeys throughout this section. |
| 7. | On Cherry Creek.—Good camp. |
| 11. | On Cherry Creek.—Good camp. |
| 17. | Mouth of Cherry Creek, at the South Platte.—Good camp, and a town built up since I passed, called "Denver City." |
Total distance from Westport to the gold diggings, 685-1/4 miles.
XVIII.—From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon.
| Miles. | St. Paul's to |
| 17-1/4. | Small Brook.—The wood, water, and grass are abundant as far as the "Bois des Sioux" River. |
| 20-1/4. | Cow Creek.—This stream is crossed on a bridge. |
| 23-1/4. | Small Lake.—North of the road. The road passes over a rolling prairie, and crosses Elk River on a bridge. |
| 17. | Near Sauk Rapids.—The road crosses Elk River twice on bridges; Mississippi River near. |
| 18. | Russel's.—Ferry across the Mississippi River, then follow the Red River trail. Camp is on a cold spring brook. |
| 6. | Cold Spring Brook.—Cross Sauk River, 300 feet wide, 4-1/2 feet deep. |
| 19-1/2. | Lake Henry.—Road good. |
| 18-3/4. | Lightning Lake.—Cross Cow River in a ferry-boat; water 4-1/2 feet deep. |
| 17-1/2. | Lake.—One mile from Red River trail. Pass White Bean Lake. |
| 9-1/2. | Pike Lake.—Pass the South Branch of the Chippeway River. Road runs over rolling prairie, and crosses a small branch. |
| 19-1/4. | Small Lake.—Cross Chippeway River in a boat. Road passes numerous lakes and the best grass. |
| 9-3/4. | Small Lake.—Road passes rolling prairies, and crosses Rabbit River. |
| 27. | "Bois des Sioux" River.—Cross Bois des Sioux Prairie; rolling ground. |
| 11. | Wild Rice River.—Cross "Bois des Sioux" River, 70 feet wide and 4 to 7 feet deep, muddy bottom and banks. Wood, water, and grass at all camps between this and Maple River. |
| 4-1/2. | Small Creek.—Cross Wild Rice River on a bridge. |
| 26-1/2. | Sheyene River.—Smooth prairie road. |
| 16-1/2. | Maple River.—Cross Sheyene River on a bridge, and several small branches. |
| 20. | Small Creek.—Smooth road; no wood. |
| 20. | Pond.—Wet and marshy; numerous ponds in sight; no wood. |
| 15. | Pond.—No wood; approaching Sheyene River. |
| 13-1/2. | Sheyene River.—Prairie more rolling; camp in the river bottom. Wood, water, and grass abundant. |
| 7. | Slough.—Cross Sheyene River, 50 feet wide, 3-1/2 feet deep. No wood. |
| 10. | Lake.—Rolling prairie, with many marshes. Wood, water, and grass. |
| 10-1/2. | Pond.—Low, wet prairie; no wood; plenty of grass and water. |
| 18-1/4. | Marsh.—Smooth prairie, generally dry. |
| 20. | "Rivière à Jaques."—Smooth prairie, with marshes. Road crosses the river several times. Wood, water, and grass. |
| 21-1/2. | Pond.—Hilly and marshy prairie, with small ponds, and no wood. |
| 12. | Small Branch.—Marshy prairie, filled with ponds, with a thin, short grass, and no wood. |
| 19-3/4. | Lake.—On a high knoll. Road crosses the South Fork of Sheyene River; good crossing; thence rolling prairie, passing "Balto de Morale," also a narrow lake 4-1/2 miles long. |
| 16-1/2. | Pond.—Marshy prairie, ponds, and knolls; cross a small branch at 7-3/4 miles. No wood. |
| 17-3/4. | Pond.—Rolling prairie. Cross Wintering River, a deep, muddy stream 100 feet wide, also marshy prairies and ponds. No wood. |
| 16. | Small Branch.—Tributary of Mouse River. Road skirts the valley of Mouse River, crossing the ravines near their heads. |
| 15-1/4. | Pond.—Undulating prairie with occasional marshes; the road then turns up the high ridge called "Grand Coteau." No wood. |
| 20-1/4. | Lake.—Hilly road approaching Grand Coteau. No wood. |
| 20. | Lake.—Rolling prairie; smooth, good road; no wood. |
| 15-1/2. | Pond.—Road passes Grand Coteau at 11 miles, and runs between two lakes. No wood, but plenty of "bois de vache" for fuel. |
| 19-1/4. | Branch of White Earth River.—Country rolling and hilly. Road passes wood at eight miles from camp. |
| 23-1/4. | Pond.—For two miles the road passes over a low, flat country, after which the country is hilly. No wood. |
| 23-1/2. | Pond.—Rolling and hilly country, with rocky knobs. At 18 miles cross branch of Muddy Creek 15 feet wide. Wood in ravines near this stream. No wood at camp. |
| 20. | Pond.—Rolling country. At 11 miles there is water in a ravine. To the left there is more water, but the country is rough. No wood. |
| 16-1/4. | Fort Union.—Road descends a hill to the fort; before this it passes over high, firm prairie. Good grass near in the hills. |
| 6-1/2. | Pond.—No wood; good grass. |
| 6. | Little Muddy River.—Good camp. |
| 15-1/2. | Creek.—Two good camps between this and the last. Wood, water, and grass. |
| 10. | Big Muddy River.—Drift-wood for fuel. |
| 11. | Marsh near Missouri.—Good camp. |
| 18. | Poplar River.—Good camp. One or two good camps between this and the last camp. |
| 23-1/2. | Creek near Missouri.—Good camp. |
| 15. | Slough near Missouri.—Good camp. |
| 17-1/2. | Milk River.—One good camp between this and the last camp. |
| 13-1/2. | Milk River.—Several good camps passed. |
| 17-1/2. | Milk River.—Good camp. |
| 19-1/2. | Milk River.—Several good camps passed. |
| 17-3/4. | Milk River.—At the crossing. The road follows a trail on the bluffs, and descends again to the river. |
| 7-1/2. | Lake.—No wood; grass and water plenty. |
| 12-1/2. | Milk River.—Second crossing. Good camp. |
| 12. | Milk River.—Good camp. |
| 15-1/2. | Milk River.—Good camps between this and the last camp. |
| 10-3/4. | Milk River.—Good camp. |
| 20. | Milk River.—Good camp. |
| 16. | Milk River.—Good camp. |
| 18. | Milk River.—At the third crossing.—Good camp. |
| 7-1/2. | Branch of Milk River.—Good camp. |
| 17-1/2. | Branch of Milk River.—Several good camps between this and the last camp. |
| 6. | Branch of Milk River.—Good camp. |
| 19-1/4. | Prairie Spring.—No wood; water and grass plenty. |
| 13-3/4. | Teton River.—Road crosses "Marias River." |
| 8-3/4. | Teton River, at Fort Benton.—A trading-post. |
| 2-1/2. | Small Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass. |
| 18-3/4. | Missouri River.—Good camp. |
| 20-1/2. | Missouri River.—Above the falls. Road much broken into ravines. Wood, water, and grass. |
| 16-3/4. | Missouri River.—Road crosses first tributary above Fort Benton at ten miles. |
| 17. | Missouri River.—The road becomes very bad after fourteen miles, but is better on the north side of the Missouri. |
| 6. | Missouri River.—The road is exceedingly rough and broken; crosses the river.—Good wood, water, and grass. |
| 11. | Tributary of the Missouri.—The most difficult part of the road is passed, but the country is still hilly. |
| 18-1/2. | Tributary of the Missouri.—The road follows up the last-mentioned stream to near its head. Good camps. |
| 15. | Near the summit of Little Blackfoot Pass, on a broad Indian trail; excellent road. |
| 14-3/4. | Little Blackfoot River.—Road crosses the summit of the Rocky Mountains. Good road for wagons, with many camping-places. |
| 17-1/2. | Little Blackfoot River.—Road good, descending along the river. Near the camp a large fork comes in. |
| 28-1/2. | Little Blackfoot River.—Good road, which follows the broad, open valley for 14 miles. Good camps. |
| 19-1/2. | Little Blackfoot River.—The valley contracts so that wagons will be forced to take the bed of the river in some places. The river is fordable, and the trail crosses it five times during the day. |
| 22-1/2. | Blackfoot River.—Sixteen miles from the last camp "Blackfoot" and "Hell Gate" River's enter, and about one mile of this distance is impassable for wagons; they would have to cross the river, which is fordable. Good camps. |
| 27-1/2. | Fort Owen.—Road runs up the St. Mary's River to Fort Owen over a broad, good trail in the valley. |
| 40. | St. Mary's River.—The south Nez Percés trail leaves the main trail, which ascends the St. Mary's Valley to the Forks, and follows the southwest fork to its source. To the Forks the valley of the St. Mary's is open, and admits wagons. |
| 24. | Southwest Fork of St. Mary's River.—The road follows a narrow trail, crossing the river frequently, and is not passable for wagons. The valley is narrow, and shut in by hills. |
| 5-1/2. | Kooskooskia River.—Road leaves the St. Mary's River, passing over a high ridge to the Kooskooskia River. |
| 10. | Branch.—Road runs over wooded hills. |
| 14. | Creek.—Road runs over wooded hills. |
| 9. | Small Creek.—This is the best camp between the St. Mary's River and the Nez Percés country. |
| 15. | Small Creek.—Road passes over wooded hills. |
| 9. | Small Branch.—Road passes over wooded hills, is very rough and difficult. Poor camp. |
| 14. | Small Creek.—Ten miles from last camp the road passes a high divide, ascending rapidly, though not difficult. Good grass on the summit, but no water. |
| 13. | Small Creek.—Good camp where the trail emerges from the woods on to the high plateau. |
| 7. | Clear Water River.—Large tributary. Road runs over high table-land, and descends to the valley of the river. |
| 43. | Lapwai River.—The road follows a broad trail down the river six miles, when it leaves the river bottom and ascends the plateau, which extends to Craig's house, on the Lapwai, fifteen miles from the river. |
| 23. | Tributary Snake River.—The trail runs over high ground from Craig's to Lapwai River, 15 miles. This river is 450 feet wide. No wood. Indians are generally found here, who ferry over travelers. The trail follows Snake River for several miles. |
| 26-1/4. | Tchannon River.—The trail passes 5-1/2 miles up the bottom of a small creek; then runs over a steep hill to another small creek, 8 miles; then along the valley of this stream 10-1/2 miles; thence over a high hill to camp on Tchannon River, 3 miles. |
| 11-1/2. | Touchet River.—The trail crosses the Tchannon River, and ascends to a high plain, which continues to camp. |
| 32-1/2. | Touchet River.—Road follows a good trail along the valley, where good camps are found any where, with wood, water, and grass. |
| 19-1/2. | Fort Wallah Wallah.—Leaving Touchet River, the trail passes over again to the plains, when there is neither wood, water, or grass to Fort Wallah Wallah. |
| Total distance from St. Paul's to Fort Union, | 712-1/2 miles. |
| Total distance from Fort Union to Fort Benton, | 377-1/2 " |
| Total distance from Fort Benton to Fort Owen, | 255 " |
| Total distance from Fort Owen to Fort Wallah Wallah, | 340-3/4 " |
| Total distance from St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon, | 1685-3/4 miles. |