Land is seen on every side of the lake except on the west, where it spreads out like an inland sea. On coasting along its northern side, and steering nearly W. N. W. to the distance of fifteen miles, we leave on the left a tongue of very flat land, which extends several miles southward. It seems to close the passage of the lake, and to form a kind of strait. Beyond this barrier the lake is prolonged, as I have said, towards the west, until it is lost in the horizon.
The barrier I have just mentioned divides lake Debo into two lakes, the upper and the lower. That through which the boats passed, and in which the three islands I have mentioned are situated, is very large. It extends in an easterly direction, and is surrounded by extensive marshes. Land is visible on every side.
When we had advanced as far as the middle of the first division, three of the large boats fired some muskets, to salute this majestic lake, and the crew of each boat shouted with all their might Salam! Salam! repeating the cry several times. We stood off from the eastern bank and navigated with great caution: the lake was calm and the water clear. The current was not perceptible on its surface, the depth of the part which we navigated was twelve or thirteen feet. The canoes were merely rowed, and advanced very slowly. I could not recover from my surprise at seeing so great a mass of water in the heart of the country. There was something very majestic in the sight.
About five in the evening we arrived off Gabibi, a small fishing village on the right bank of the lake. The huts of this village are made of straw and of a round form. Since we entered the lake we had stood to the N. E. We passed close to the island of Maria-Theresa, on which I observed some fine granite of a bright chesnut colour. We took our departure from Gabibi, and at sun-set I saw, for the first time, since I left the coast, that luminary sink into a sort of ocean.
We proceeded along the shore, at some distance from it, in the direction of W. N. W. The boatmen sang while they pushed along the canoe with their poles. We observed large blocks of granite on the shore. We brought to about eleven at night off Didhiover, a large village inhabited by Foulahs, who have only straw huts like those of the pastoral Foulahs. Some negroes went to the village to buy giraumons. We could not procure a single drop of milk.
CHAPTER XX.
Tongom, a village in the country of the Dirimans — Co — Do —Sa, a commercial port — Mercantile flotillas — The Soorgoos or Tooariks, a nomadic and predatory tribe — Baraconga — Lelel — Garfola —Filinsa — Baracondié — Tircy — Liquor made from the kondoo — Alcodia, the Diriman capital — Customs of the inhabitants — Salacoila — Cora — Coratoo — Separation of the river into two branches — Arrival at Cabra, the port of Timbuctoo — Description of the place.
On the 3rd of April we took our departure from the village of Didhiover, which is situated near the northern entrance of the lake. The river on issuing from the lake may be about six miles broad. At sun-rise we stood towards the north. In the course of the morning we passed the village of Tongom, which belongs to the country of the Dirimans. It contains about four or five hundred inhabitants.
About one in the afternoon, we lay to at a spot where we observed bushes and cut some for fire-wood. At this spot the river is only about three quarters of a mile broad. I went ashore with the slaves. The land, which is subject to inundations, is not destitute of vegetation. I saw naucleas and mimosas twelve feet high. In the course of the voyage, the master of the canoe asked me to lend him five thousand cowries, until the Moor, who was the owner, and who was daily expected, should arrive. The negro had already cheated me more than once, and as I was apprehensive that I should never be repaid, which would have infallibly been the case, I refused to lend him such a sum. He made several individuals apply to me for him, but I would not comply. Finding that I was determined not to lend him the cowries, he threw out threats against me, and went so far as to pull me by the legs to make me leave the boat. He collected what articles belonged to me and threw them on deck, accompanying the action with many violent and rude expressions. He intimated that he would drive me among the slaves, and thus insulted me in a thousand different ways.
When I went on shore he objected to my going in the small boat. I knew not to whom I could complain of all these vexations, for there was no person on board who could protect me. At last the young Foulah obtained his consent to my going in the little canoe, to be put on shore along with some slaves. On landing, I seated myself under the shade of a mimosa, and, reflecting sorrowfully on the disagreeable situation in which I should be placed during the voyage if I did not lend him the cowries, I resolved to make that sacrifice. He came on shore to me, and assailed me with fresh reproaches, insisting at the same time that I certainly ought to place confidence in him, and assuring me that he would repay the debt on the arrival of his master. Though my resources were greatly diminished, and I felt that the strictest economy was indispensible, I promised for the sake of peace to lend him a thousand cowries. From that moment our quarrel terminated. His example was however followed by one of his comrades. These two negroes completely abused the advantage which circumstances had given them over me; and when we arrived at Timbuctoo I found it impossible to procure repayment.