On the 8th of April, at five in the morning, we left Baracondié and directed our course westerly. About eleven we brought to off the village of Tircy. The N. E. wind, Which blew a gale, obliged us to anchor. Here the river takes a turn towards the north. The village of Tircy contains about six hundred inhabitants; it consists of straw huts, of the same form as those of the pastoral Foulahs who inhabit the banks of the Senegal.
In the surrounding marshes I observed a number of negroes gathering a large herb, which grows only in marshy grounds. This plant is called kondoo: they dry it in the sun, and then pass it rapidly over a flame to burn off the leaves, as the stalks only are preserved. Of these they make large bundles, which they carry home on their heads. I also saw several asses loaded with these bundles. I asked my comrades what was done with this plant: they told me, that after it is well washed and dried by the women, it is reduced to a fine powder, which is put into a large earthen vase, having the bottom perforated with small holes. Upon the powder warm water is poured, and, in filtering, the water becomes impregnated with the essence of the plant, which is of a saccharine nature. The liquor thus obtained is much esteemed by the natives, who relish it greatly; but it has the effect of a purgative on persons not accustomed to drink it. It always retains a slightly smoky flavour, which renders it disagreeable to strangers. The Mahomedan natives indulge in this beverage without scruple: the Moors also drink it, but they always mix with it a little sour milk.
The stalk of the kondoo is as thick as a reed; it is a creeping plant, about eight or ten feet long; the leaves, which are narrow, are six or eight inches long; their edges are indented or serrated. The banks of the Dhioliba are covered with this plant. The Dirimans and some Foulahs who inhabit Tircy came to sell us this liquor, sour milk, fresh butter, dry fish, and mats. About a glassful of milk was sold for five cowries. I suppose that provisions were scarce in this village, for the dealers hawked their goods on the shore, and, in general, would take nothing but millet in payment. It is true, that among the number, there were many pastoral Foulahs who pay no attention to agriculture, and whose only resource consists in their cattle. Never travelling, and not being near any markets, cowries are of no use to them; but millet is always a ready and acceptable food. A bowl full of millet purchases twice the quantity of milk which the same bowl will hold. This is the fixed rate of dealing in the country. Young girls of twelve or fourteen years lined the bank of the river, offering to sell us their merchandise: they were nearly naked, having only a pagne round their loins.
Soon after our arrival at the village of Tircy, we learned that some of the large boats had run aground, and that one of them had been completely swamped. This unforeseen accident occasioned considerable delay in the progress of the flotilla, which was obliged to stop in order to give assistance to the wrecked boat. The crews of the canoes hastened to help them; the greater part of the merchandise was floating about in the river, and, notwithstanding the activity which every individual displayed, only a very small part of the cargo was saved. This was a considerable loss to the owners; for, though the trade is very brisk, the merchants know nothing of the means of protecting themselves from risks by insurances. Notwithstanding this unfortunate occurrence, the Moor, whose neglect had caused it, did not appear in the least concerned.
The 9th and 10th of April were employed in dragging some bags of rice and millet out of the water; the negroes plunged in and one was drowned. All the negroes of the flotilla came to the aid of the wrecked canoe; they generally have an interest in rendering this kind of service, for they receive, by way of reward, a portion of the merchandise they save, except the manufactured stuffs, the value of which they are paid in millet and rice.
I saw at Tircy the two Moors of Adrar whom I had met at Banan; they greeted me cordially, and invited me many times to sup with them. As I knew these people think much of presents, I gave them a part of my dokhnou, a little baked bread, and a sheet of paper; these things they received with gratitude. One of them asked me whether I wanted some cowries to purchase milk with: as I had still from five to six thousand left, I thanked them, but declined their obliging offer.
The women of the Dirimans, like all who live on the banks of the river from Jenné to Timbuctoo, have their hair ornamented with small glass beads; they also wear glass, and sometimes metal rings in their noses. My fellow travellers told me that these people are robbers, and that they often practise great cruelties; this I was ready enough to believe, for, during the two days I staid among them, I observed much quarrelling and fighting. Their dress is the same as that of the people of Jenné; like them, they have woolly black hair. They have handsome countenances, aquiline noses, thin lips, and large eyes; they are armed with two or three pikes and a dagger, which they promptly make use of on the least provocation. After being engaged in a quarrel, they fall devoutly to their prayers, for they are Musulmans, and they often rise from their religious duties merely to begin fresh contentions. They use the bow and arrow against their enemies; but some were armed with muskets, and some with sabres; these weapons had been introduced by Europeans. I saw a man walking on the bank of the river with a calabash full of saltpetre, which he offered for sale: I was desirous of knowing in what way it had been procured; the Moors informed me that saltpetre was manufactured in the country, and that it was used for making gunpowder.
The village of Alcodia, the residence of the chief of the Dirimans, is situated to the east of Tircy, from which it is a day and a half’s journey distant. The crew, having saved all the merchandise they could, prepared to start the next day.
On the 11th of April, at six in the morning, we left the village of Tircy; the course of the river is northward. At seven o’clock we passed Talbocoila; about nine we halted to take in our stock of fire-wood. The wind blew gently from N. E. Two hours after we had re-embarked, we observed that the river, which had hitherto always continued of an equal width, became very narrow and deep; its banks were still low and bare. In many places we saw on the right bank quicksands, of a bright yellow colour; I perceived numerous herds of cattle grazing in the surrounding marshes.
From five o’clock in the evening till seven, when we halted, the river continued its course to the north. We saw a good many hippopotami, who kept at some distance; I could see nothing of them but their heads: the negroes assured me that they often saw them, and that if they passed near the canoes they would shatter them, as it were, with a touch. The river at this part is a little wider, we crossed it to the other side during the night.