About nine o’clock we again put off, and at ten arrived at a place where the river separates into two branches: the principal of these might be three-quarters of a mile broad, running gently E. S. E.; the direction of the other is E. by N.; it is deep, and its breadth is from thirty-five to forty paces.
About one o’clock P. M. we arrived at the port of Cabra, and I was informed that I might quit my prison, the Soorgoos having remained behind; I speedily went on deck, whence I could see nothing around me but flooded morasses covered with aquatic birds. This arm of the river is very narrow, and the current stronger than in the large arm. I think it not unlikely that at a little distance it joins the Dhioliba, for in this place the branch inclines to the east. If this is the case, the river forms a large marshy island, which must be flooded during the inundations.
Across these immense marshes is discovered the village or little town of Cabra, situated on a small hill, which protects it from inundation. I was told that in the rainy season these marshes are covered with water to the depth of ten feet, which appeared to me a surprising depth for so vast a space, and that at those periods large vessels cast anchor before Cabra. A little canal leads to this village; but small boats only can enter the port. If the canal were cleared of the grass and nenuphars which choke the passage, vessels of twenty-five tons burthen might go up it in all seasons; but such a task would be too toilsome for the negroes.
I embarked on board a small canoe, in company with the Moors from Adrar, to proceed to Cabra. The negro slaves hauled the canoe along by a rope, as the pole would not have been sufficient to move it. We met several small canoes which had been dispatched for the purpose of conveying to the town the most valuable commodities brought by the vessels from Jenné. About three in the afternoon we reached Cabra, which is situated three miles to the north of the great port. On entering it I observed a number of straw huts like those of the Foulahs, which were inhabited by trading slaves. Near their huts was a great quantity of the fruit of the nenuphar, which constitutes part of the food of the slaves and poorer classes.
I observed in the streets a great concourse of people and merchants; some walking idly about, others endeavouring to dispose of their goods, consisting of fish, milk, colat-nuts, pistachios, &c. The town of Cabra is narrow, and extends east and west; the houses are built of earth with terraced roofs, and have only a ground-floor; few of them are well built, being chiefly cabins, for the richer class of people prefer living at Timbuctoo, the centre of commerce. The inhabitants of Cabra, about a thousand or twelve hundred in number, are all employed, either in landing the various merchandise brought from Jenné, or in conveying it to Timbuctoo. For this purpose they make use of asses and camels. The slaves do not carry loads on their heads; this would be a bad speculation for their masters, for the poor creatures would soon be worn out, as the road leading to the town consists of quicksand which renders walking very difficult.
At Cabra a market is daily held for the sale of all sorts of merchandise from Soudan. The town contains a little mosque, surrounded by a tower or minaret. To the west of the town there are some specimens of the balanitis ægyptiaca, and small gardens of tobacco; this latter plant, however, does not thrive, and seldom grows higher than six or seven inches. On the east side there are some date-trees, which are visible from a distance.
The almost constant inundation of the marshes, in the neighbourhood of Cabra prevents the inhabitants from cultivating rice; and the sandy soil on the north is unfit for growing millet. The Moors from Adrar, in whose boat I had come from the great port, having unloaded the canoe, placed their goods in a store-house, until they should be ready to convey them to the city. The inhabitants of Cabra let their magazines to merchants, who wish to deposit their goods in the town; and they also let out asses for carrying loads to Timbuctoo.
I went out to take a view of the interior of the village. The streets are narrow, but neat. I saw several female traders, and from one of them I bought a little milk and a loaf of wheaten flour, which cost me twenty cowries. I made a hearty breakfast, for I had not tasted any thing all day. I had not cause to think much of the honesty of the woman from whom I made the purchase, for she wanted to make me pay twice. I was foolish enough to pay her beforehand; it is the custom in this country to lay the value of what is bought on the basket in which the goods lie, and the money is not removed until the article is in the hands of the purchaser. This precaution does not say much for the honesty of either buyers or sellers.
I saw in the port a number of large canoes undergoing repair. The owners are accustomed, as soon as the boats are unladen, to draw them on shore, where they are supported on large round blocks of wood, which keep them a little elevated from the ground. Were it not for this prudent practice, the cords with which the planks are fastened together would very quickly rot. The little port of Cabra extends east and west for the space of half a mile, being about sixty paces broad. It would be a very useful place, were it kept in better order; but it is very dirty and full of mud. Numbers of men and women are always ready in the port to load and unload the vessels. This was the day for celebrating the conclusion of the Ramadan. The inhabitants were dancing and indulging in their simple demonstrations of joy. They were all decently clothed. I asked a female slave, who was sitting before her hut, for some water to drink. She immediately rose, and, washing a wooden bowl, brought me some water in it, which she presented to me with great civility.
The Soorgoos, or Tooariks, receive at Cabra the duties which they levy on vessels. They roam about the village, and behave in the most arbitrary way, making the inhabitants give them provisions and other property—in fact, seizing whatever they can lay their hands on. The inhabitants of Cabra took no notice of me. The Moors of Adrar invited me to partake of their supper of rice, which I found very palatable; and I passed the night in the open air, sleeping on a mat beside my companions. I was a little tormented by the mosquitoes, which, however, are not so common on the banks of the Dhioliba as on those of the Senegal.