We continued our route to the north a little west, through a district uniformly arid, interspersed with little sand-hills, in a direction from east to west. The east wind had now subsided, and the heat was excessive on account of the calm. We were tormented with thirst, for we only drank once in the course of the day. I derived some benefit from the care I took, after the example of the Moors, to fasten a strip of cotton cloth over my eyes, and another over my mouth to keep off the burning air which parched my lungs.
In the course of the day, we had passed over grey and red gravel in many places. Towards half past five we halted on unvaried sand; and a large calabash of water mixed with dokhnou was brought to us. We had eaten nothing all day, and yet we felt no need of food; for the dokhnou is very nourishing, and the burning thirst with which we were tormented had taken away every thing like hunger. A Moor was sent to take care of the camels, which were wandering here and there in search of a few blades of grass.
About ten at night, we had some rice cooked, which we ate with melted butter; but it made me very thirsty. I begged for a little water; but old Aly, my guide, who had remained behind, no doubt that he might drink as much as he liked himself without being seen, came up at the moment they were preparing to give me the water, and peremptorily countermanded it. This was only a prelude to the annoyance he afterwards caused me.
On the 20th of May, at five in the morning, we continued our course to the north, the country being of the same nature, as that which we traversed the day before. About ten o’clock we halted in a place which was absolutely bare. The heat was beginning to be excessive, and we hastened to stretch the covering (a tanned sheep-skin which served for a tent) under which we collected for the rest of the day. We had each a calabash of water containing about three bottles which we swallowed at a draught; but this tepid water only filled the stomach without quenching our thirst: I would fain have drunk oftener, and a smaller quantity at a time, but the Moors who presided over the distribution of the water would not hear of this new arrangement, and adhered to the old practice.
The poor negro slaves, accustomed to a fertile country, suffered from this way of life, but they were no worse off than the rest of us; we were all on an equality.
It was not yet noon, and we were to have nothing to eat or drink till five in the evening. The heat was excessive and the east wind raised a great quantity of sand, as it had done most days; we suffered dreadfully. At the moment when I was thinking of nothing but the present calamity, old Aly came to inform me that the water-skins which Sidi-Abdallahi of Timbuctoo had given me were not large enough, and that our provision of water would not last long if we were not extremely economical. The rogue was right; for whilst I had three skins for my share, he and his companions had only two small ones a-piece, and there were nine persons to be supplied for a week. I was certainly entitled to forbid their making use of my stock; but what should I have been the better if I had? they would have drunk the water, and told me the east wind had dried it up. I answered therefore that I was obliged to Aly for his information, and that I should take his advice. During this conversation, which was followed up on my part by many painful reflections, the east wind increased; it was no longer a time for talking of one’s affairs, but every one lay down to sleep, as we intended to travel during the night. My eyes never closed, and I lay wide awake. The east wind continued till sunset and then changed to the west; though its force was abated, it hardly incommoded us less, for it still blew up a great quantity of sand.
At five o’clock we had a calabash of dokhnou, and then lay down again till nine, when we started. We marched all night; and the calm was stifling, for the west wind had ceased. The country through which we travelled was quite level and absolutely barren. The slow and unvaried step of the camel made me drowsy. I laid my head upon my bag, and slept a little.
On the 21st, at ten o’clock in the morning, we halted. The burning east wind which was beginning to blow rendered the heat insufferable, and the scorching sand found its way into our eyes, in spite of the precautions which we took to exclude it. We pitched our tents, and tepid water was distributed, which we thought delicious though it had little effect in quenching our thirst; after we had drunk it, we stretched ourselves on the sand to repose. Notwithstanding all the precautions I had taken, the heat was so intense and my thirst so tormenting, that I found if impossible to get any sleep; my throat was on fire and my tongue clave to the roof of my mouth. I lay as if expiring on the sand, waiting with the greatest impatience for the moment when we were to have our next supply of water; I thought of nothing but water—rivers, streams, rivulets, were the only ideas that presented themselves to my mind during this burning fever; in my impatience I cursed my companions, the country, the camels, and for anything I know the sun himself, who did not make sufficient speed to reach the horizon.
The spot where we were encamped was frightfully arid, there was not a single leaf to refresh the eye, and nature presented her most terrific aspect.
The camels scattered over the plain, the profound solitude, the silence of the desert, produced painful impressions, which it is difficult to describe; the poor animals, exhausted with fatigue, were lying near the tents, with their heads between their legs, quietly waiting for the signal of departure; it was given at last. At half past four Sidi-Aly who had undertaken to provide our rations, threw a few handfuls of dokhnou into a large calabash, and poured water upon it; he then mixed the whole with his hands, thrusting his arms in up to the elbows—a sight which would have disgusted any one less hungry than ourselves, for water was so precious that old Aly’s hands had not been washed for many days. Though the beverage was luke-warm, and very dirty, we drank heartily of it, and with the greatest delight.